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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Changed the oil and filter myself yesterday.

The 2015 service manual does not even discuss removing the magnetic oil drain plug at all, which I wondered about.

Do the professionals remove all the plugs every oil change?

Followed the basic procedure outlined here.


https://chancemoto.com/2017/04/26/a-15-step-guide-to-motorcycle-oil-changes/

The oil drain plug with the magnet had a bit of metal on it, seemed within normal limits. Reused the old copper washer and used three bond gasket sealant to reinstall.

Cost $79. https://motowheels.com/i-23900139-ducati-oil-change-kit-motul-300v-10w-40-or-15w-50-synthetic-oil-choice-of-oil-filterall-ducatis-except-panigale.html

Used Motul 15-50 oil 3/4 of a gallon to full, and a Hi Flow filter hand tight.

I could not figure out how to get the mesh screen loose. It would not budge so I left it as is.

Does that screen screw in and out or is it just a pull and push thing?

The side and lower plugs around the mesh screen have aluminum washers that can easily fall into the oil pan, so watch out for those. There was no grease at all on those plugs so I reinstalled them as they were despite the 2015 manual calling for grease.
 

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The mesh filter should be checked every other oil change. It is screwed in - a 12 or 14mm allen.

I'd change the crush washer every time - no need for any sealant. It's probably fine, but keep an eye on it for a while.

I was recently told that the OEM filter has special valving because of how ducs handle oil pressure at idle. I'm also using HiFlo, but will go OEM at the next change.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The mesh filter should be checked every other oil change. It is screwed in - a 12 or 14mm allen.

I'd change the crush washer every time - no need for any sealant. It's probably fine, but keep an eye on it for a while.

I was recently told that the OEM filter has special valving because of how ducs handle oil pressure at idle. I'm also using HiFlo, but will go OEM at the next change.
Thanks for that info! I will remove and clean the oil screen next change.

Who did you hear from that the ducati filter is different from others?

It would be great if we could see documentation confirming.
 

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Thanks for that info! I will remove and clean the oil screen next change.

Who did you hear from that the ducati filter is different from others?

It would be great if we could see documentation confirming.
I heard it from a local specialist - we were talking about other things and he looked down and saw the hiflow. He's an honest broker,with no skin in the game as I don't get my repairs done there. Sometimes you just have to trust people who seem both trustworthy and more knowledgeable than ones self.


So next change - OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yet, if the Ducati filter actually has critical specs different from other filters that are documented by manufacturers (K&N) to be alternatives, one would think it would void the warranty to use another filter. I don't think it does.
 

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The mesh filter should be checked every other oil change. It is screwed in - a 12 or 14mm allen.

I'd change the crush washer every time - no need for any sealant. It's probably fine, but keep an eye on it for a while.

I was recently told that the OEM filter has special valving because of how ducs handle oil pressure at idle. I'm also using HiFlo, but will go OEM at the next change.

That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
 

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That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
I will definitely take your advice over a known ducati specialist. LOL

People can do what the like. It's an extra $6 every 9k miles.
 

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Yet, if the Ducati filter actually has critical specs different from other filters that are documented by manufacturers (K&N) to be alternatives, one would think it would void the warranty to use another filter. I don't think it does.
Well my bike is well past warranty now, but the guy I spoke with said he definitely looks for stuff like that when a bike in need of repair comes in. He also mentioned that it's oil pressure at idle. I have 33k miles and my engine is fine (knock on wood) but I'll take his advice.

FYI: From what I've heard you can't even properly mount a K&N on the bike anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well my bike is well past warranty now, but the guy I spoke with said he definitely looks for stuff like that when a bike in need of repair comes in. He also mentioned that it's oil pressure at idle. I have 33k miles and my engine is fine (knock on wood) but I'll take his advice.

FYI: From what I've heard you can't even properly mount a K&N on the bike anymore.
Interesting. Can you ask that mechanic what the source of his info may be? Really curious to know if there is any documentation about it.

I ordered a Ducati filter which arrived today. It came in a box, no cover on the filter, and no oil on the seal. The Hi Flow has a cap over the filter and oiled seals. Cheaper filter with superior packaging and quality assurance to keep debris out of the filter until installation.

I have a K&N filter on the way as well. If it does not mount properly I will let you know for sure.

I think it is not unreasonable that without documentation skepticism is valid.
 

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Interesting. Can you ask that mechanic what the source of his info may be? Really curious to know if there is any documentation about it.

I ordered a Ducati filter which arrived today. It came in a box, no cover on the filter, and no oil on the seal. The Hi Flow has a cap over the filter and oiled seals. Cheaper filter with superior packaging and quality assurance to keep debris out of the filter until installation.

I have a K&N filter on the way as well. If it does not mount properly I will let you know for sure.

I think it is not unreasonable that without documentation skepticism is valid.
You're right - it's not unreasonable and everyone can make their choice. I've used hiflo with no apparent issues (though never noticed the oiled seals) - but...
 

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That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
I will definitely take your advice over a known ducati specialist. LOL

I’d be more worried about old oil at 9k intervals that what brand of filter.

I have done 2 oil changes in my first 3000 miles & I will continue to do them every 3,500 miles or so. I did the screen at 600 & will do it again at my next change. I have used OEM filters & both Yamalube 15/50 & Motorex 15/50 & noticed no difference. I have a filter tool that fits the Ducati filters. If I did not I would use a K&N or a HighFlo as the nut makes removal easier.

Here’s what the screen looked like at 600 miles..

People can do what the like. It's an extra $6 every 9k miles.
That sounds like a load of horse poo poo. The OEM filters don't have any special valves in them that every oil filter does not already have. I would love to see the special valving, as I don't buy it.
I will definitely take your advice over a known ducati specialist. LOL



People can do what the like. It's an extra $6 every 9k miles.
I’d be more worried about dirty oil after 9k than what type of oil filter I used.

I have done two oil changes in 3,500 miles & I did the stern at 600 miles & will do it again at the next change. I use OEM filters as I have a filter wrench that fits but would use K&N or Hiflo too as the nut makes removal so easy. I have used bot Yamalube & Motorex 15/50 synthetic oil & noticed no difference only that both shifted better than the Shell but I’m sure that was due to break in & not the oil.

Here’s what my screen & plug looked like at 600 mile change.
 

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the removal of the plug under the oil screen is something i would never do personally, but maybe they've decided it's a removable thing. it used to be loctited in, and i've seen people fight to get it out and damage the cases, etc. plus it's not the lowest point of the sump internally.

i'd never remove it instead of the magnetic drain plug, but i'm not in the factory loop these days to know what they're thinking.
 

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I’d be more worried about dirty oil after 9k than what type of oil filter I used.

I have done two oil changes in 3,500 miles & I did the stern at 600 miles & will do it again at the next change. I use OEM filters as I have a filter wrench that fits but would use K&N or Hiflo too as the nut makes removal so easy. I have used bot Yamalube & Motorex 15/50 synthetic oil & noticed no difference only that both shifted better than the Shell but I’m sure that was due to break in & not the oil.

Here’s what my screen & plug looked like at 600 mile change.
That looks pretty clean for a new engine.

Watched a video recently of a guy that had bought a wrecked Ferrari 360 (2006?) and was changing the oil and he had to dig a foil cover (the kind that use to seal a quart of new oil) out of the drain hole. Some dufus let that get into the motor. Shameful. I'm always paranoid about that as well as any dust/dirt etc getting in a motor when I have the oil fill or airbox open.
 

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That's why they have screens and plugs. The manual says 9k mile changes.I will do that or a change at the end of the season for winter storage - which ever comes first. Synthetic is very stable stuff, but I know old habits are hard to break.
 

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That's why they have screens and plugs. The manual says 9k mile changes.I will do that or a change at the end of the season for winter storage - which ever comes first. Synthetic is very stable stuff, but I know old habits are hard to break.
So you’ll splurge on a filter but not on the oil. lol. I would think the oil in my Hyper would be trashed at 9,000 miles so I am going to stick to changing it every 3,000 or so. Cheap insurance as I plan to keep the bike a long time.
 

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So you’ll splurge on a filter but not on the oil. lol. I would think the oil in my Hyper would be trashed at 9,000 miles so I am going to stick to changing it every 3,000 or so. Cheap insurance as I plan to keep the bike a long time.
It's not a question of splurging regarding the filter, and 3000 mile oil changes are not necessary. Follow your inner bliss.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
It's not a question of splurging regarding the filter, and 3000 mile oil changes are not necessary. Follow your inner bliss.
This is a fascinating issue and debated all over the place. If the bike needed oil changes every 3k miles or more, it would be required for warranty. Since it is not required, the burden of proof is on those who say more frequent oil changes will lead to longer engine life.

The logic of the argument seems clear, fresh oil, cleaner oil is better. The science, however, needs to demonstrate that modern synthetic oils at 6k miles is materially worse off than new oil.

I would love to see evidence either way.

FWIW I still change my oil every 3k miles even though I don't have to per engine manufacturer. Just "feels" right, despite the lack of evidence that it is better.

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/oil-change-truths/

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/things-to-know-about-oil-changes-for-your-car/

https://motorbikewriter.com/often-change-oil/
 

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Discussion Starter #18
K&N and HiFlo come with a protective freshness seal over the filter and keeps the rubber oiled.

Ducati does not.

K&N and HiFlo can be installed and removed with a 17mm socket

Ducati requires a special filter socket

When you look inside they are not identical. There does seem to be a variation is the metal mesh work and oil passages. I would assume they do not have identical oil flow properties, but they have to be close or they would either over stress the oil pump from too little flow or flood the system from too much flow. Just a theory.
 

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So I was going down an internet wormhole and found a few things regarding oil filters. My journey began when I stumbled on a filter by a company called Mahle. They are explicit in stating they meet all pressure requirements for the engines they're compatible with. It seems they are an OEM manufacturer - surely for BMW and maybe for Ducati. The oil filters for these bikes include a spring release bypass pressure valve. I found a test done for BMW and only 2 filters released at the the proper pressure - the OEM and Mahle. None of the others.

Take aways:

Modern oil filters aren't just a can stuffed with stuff to catch dirt.

Manufacturers do have optimum pressure parameters that are effected by valves(s) in the filters.

Mahle was the only one with proper bypass valve opening pressure for the BMW (excepting the OEM) so I'll take a leap that they're also good for the Ducati (and it may be the OEM)
https://bestrestproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Oil-filter-charts-revised-03-14-18.pdf

The Mahle is about $10.00 cheaper than the OEM

And last but not least: I am not, in this specific instance, full of shit.
 

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i've been using the mahle oc5 for several years. they are the same length as the old 44440034a, so on the late model stuff they do hang down a bit compared to a 35a, etc.
 
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