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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A few months ago, I bought a 2002 Yellow ST4s. So the weather is getting nice and wanted to start riding. I went to check the Manual on changing oil and it says it should be performed by the dealer. I have the fairings off and it does not seem that complicated. I noticed that the oil drain plug is a pretty large hex nut. So I have some questions (what size nut, where to get the tool, where is the screen ?..oil filter availability, should I use DUCATI filter or or does FRAM make one etc..).

I guess I should buy the service manual. Meanwhile, I know folks have done this at home so I would appreciate any help and guidance so I change the oil quickly and RIDE... :)

Thanks...see you on the road
 

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Changing the oil and filter on a STx is not much different from other bikes, the tools needed that may not be in a basic homeowners kit are simply the larger allen sockets (available anywhere quality tools are sold) and a suitable oil filter wrench if needed for a stuck filter. I remove mine with my hands although the first time it was stuck but after stabbing it with a screw driver it came right off. If you have a stuck filter and you stab it, care must be taken not to shred the filter without loosening it or you will be in worse situation.

I recommend the OEM Ducati filter because it is well constructed and has a built-in anti-drainback valve that is well designed. They cost $10 at a dealer last time I checked.


This description applies to a 2002 ST4s but is also applicable to all Ducati STx's (perhaps with minor differences).

If you are doing the full monty (oil, oil filter and strainer), you will need:
10 & 14mm hex wrenches, oil pan, 3 1/2 qts. oil, new filter and tools to remove the lower right fairing panel. If you are not going to change the filter or clean the strainer you can omit the 14mm hex wrench and oil filter. If the filter has been on too long or a previous owner over-tightened it you may need a filter wrench to get it off. Otherwise your hands work fine. Mine was pretty tight from the factory. Or, if no one is looking, you can stab it with a sharp screwdriver and twist it off. That might be messy though.

Before I start I like to make sure the areas I will be working on are not too dirty and wipe them down with a rag before removing plugs. No need to introduce any grit into the engine or under the seals.

The service manual says to remove the lower RH fairing. This is only necessary if you will be changing the filter at the same time. Make sure engine is hot. I recommend riding it first to get it up to temperature and then let it idle for a couple of minutes to get it a bit warmer. This helps it drain faster and more completely. Be careful not to burn yourself on the exhaust header. I put a piece of aluminum foil over it to keep the draining oil off the pipe.


The motorcycle should be on the centerstand and level.

Place pan under the rear of the engine and remove drain plug and seal. Clean any metallic particles from the magnetic drain plug, small slivers are normal on a newish engine. Reinstall plug and seal when oil stops draining. Manual says to tighten to 42 Nm. But you can just guess as long you are in the ballpark.


Remove oil filter from bottom front of engine after moving oil pan underneath. Fill the new filter 3/4 full with fresh oil and rub some old, used oil on the rubber o-ring before fitting. That makes it easier to remove next time. The manual says to tighten to 17 Nm, the filter cartridge says to only hand tighten. I've just hand tightened mine (and not even as tight as I could possibly get it) and never had a problem although once I did have to tighten it up a bit tighter (again by hand) to stop a little weep.

The manual instructs to clean the oil intake mesh strainer every 2 oil changes. It is behind a plug under the oil level window and takes a 14mm allen wrench. Remove the outer cap and seal use the 14mm hex wrench to turn the strainer out. The manual instructs to clean with "petrol" and compressed air. Probably a little WD-40 would work also. If it looked clean I wouldn't do anything to it. It's normal to have little bits of plastic sealant on the screen the first few changes, I just brush them off. Take care not to break the filter mesh. Refit the mesh filter, plug and seal and torque to 42 Nm. I just screw it in firmly and call it good.


At this point, I remove the oil drain plug again and let the remaining oil drain and refit.

Fill engine with oil to the full mark (about 3 1/2 qts. including oil in oil filter) and refit oil cap, start engine and idle for a minute making sure pressure light goes out, and there are no oil leaks. Shut off engine wait a few minutes and top up with oil, if required, in the normal manner.

Refit fairing panel if it was removed.

Happy riding!

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike - The directions were right on. The filter was stuck and I had to do the screwdriver stab trick since the filter wrench didn't have enough real estate to grab on to due to the engine casting around the filter.

I was able find the 10/14 mm hex keys at "AutoZone" after I checked some other stores (Sears, Home Depot).

I see a "Use SHELL Advance" oil sticker on the clutch cover but could not find it even at the Ducati dealer. Nice gratuitous advertising...So I just used Mobil 1 blended type.

Anyway thanks for the tips they helped alot.
 
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