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I use running in oil in all new engine builds or re-rings.
Non-additive 15/40 weight oil designed specifically for the job.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=3&id_products=340

If I needed a 10/40 I wouldn't bother starting the engine as A/. it would be too cold to ride :) and B/. the motor and oil wouldn't get to full operating temperature on the road at running speeds/revs and that's counter productive.
 

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Quite right.

I suppose that's why the Owners Manual tells you to have it's first service done at 1,000 Kms, and states it to be the first stage of the run-in process with a further 1,500 Kms afterward to finish off:eek:
Those people at DUCATI must know nothing:D

Used oil analysis confirms the break-in process is certainly real enough though.
Personal experience shows, some assemblies take up to 32,000 Kms to complete the break-in process.
With others reported to take up to 60,000 Kms to complete:eek:

Very interesting indeed;)
Is there anything the UOA doesn't tell you? Also it's amazing that certain individuals give credit to the engineers at Ducati only when it benefits their case. That's it; I am taking my MWR filters out!:D
 

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Is there anything the UOA doesn't tell you? Also it's amazing that certain individuals give credit to the engineers at Ducati only when it benefits their case. That's it; I am taking my MWR filters out!:D
Yes, there's heaps that a UOA won't tell you.
In some instances it can tell you an awful lot, and then there's everything in between.

It's just another tool at the end of the day, and it has it's place as well as the possibility to miss use it.
Some people these days read too much into UOA's because it's so accessible to consumers but they don't know what they're looking at.
And then there's a big difference in the quality of the information coming out of the labs with large variations between them.
Sadly, some of the information is absolutely useless.


I reckon keep your MWR filters in;)
You paid for them after all, so you should make sure you get your moneys worth:D
 

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I use running in oil in all new engine builds or re-rings.
Non-additive 15/40 weight oil designed specifically for the job.
RUNNING-IN OIL 15W-40 (Mineral)

If I needed a 10/40 I wouldn't bother starting the engine as A/. it would be too cold to ride :) and B/. the motor and oil wouldn't get to full operating temperature on the road at running speeds/revs and that's counter productive.
I'm not necessarily a fan of Penrite oils, but that stuff looks like a good thing and fit for purpose;)
 

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I'm not necessarily a fan of Penrite oils, but that stuff looks like a good thing and fit for purpose;)

You keep saying that but then you said in the past you haven't used their modern products?

I use it in both my 4 strokes and to me they perform well and hold viscosity when other have not and the old Daytona is particularly savage on oils.
 

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Yes I know.

Maybe one day I'll get around to trying them out;)
For now I'll just stick to what's working well until something changes for the worse with it.
 

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i thought the mineral oil was standard for almost all new engines or rebuilds
Not necessarily.

Mobil 1 has been used as factory fills in a lot of vehicles for years.
And it was always primarily a Group IV(PAO) synthetic oil, and as such widely regarded in some ways to be an industry standard.
 

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Yes I know.

Maybe one day I'll get around to trying them out;)
For now I'll just stick to what's working well until something changes for the worse with it.
Aw.... come on it's Aussie made right here :)
 

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Yep, I'm hearing you.
And probably one of the last things to ever be made here, at the rate we're loosing industries and skills:(

The car manufacturers have had the skids put well and truly under them since the 80's:mad:

I do support local where ever possible, if I think it's a better product or service;)
However, in the case of the oil (as previously stated) I can run this stuff I'm currently using for 6,000 kms and still have some reserve capacity left, as opposed to other oils that are the same viscosity as it's poured fresh out of the new bottle(only it's cleaner).
 

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I came across an oil fanatic who has scientifically tested hundreds (no typo) of oils and written a nice paper on the results. Based upon his article I'm running an odd choice in my water cooled Suzuki SV1000S and Triumph TT600 - Mobile 0W40 synthetic. That oil is designed for european turbo engines. It's not rated MA for motorcycles but so far so good with no clutch slippage. Was running Rotella 15W40 synthetic in the Suzuki and would get a bearing knock at idle after hard running. That's gone with the Mobil 0W40. I'm going to run a Castrol GTX 20W50 conventional in my 900 Sport and change it often. That oil offers more protection than the Mobile 15W50 synthetic I had in there! Lots of surprises in the paper. Read and make up your own mind but to me the methodology is top notch.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ykgOU2kIM2MTNQdDZ6eEY4a1k/view?usp=sharing
 

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Hi. In the our region we usually use two type of synthetic oil 10W40 for liquid cooling engines and 20W50 for air cooling. 15W50 fits for both systems. Change interval is 5000-6000 km is normal for it, if you dont use bikes often as racing bikes on the tracks. I use Eni brand.
 

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I use shell advance 15w50 and change it every year or 12000km as per ducati manual. I have never had a problem with this oil on a air cooled engine all year. My winters are here around 5-10C and summers around 28-35C


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I also read the blog from 540 rat about his oil testing. I'm inclined to believe in his totally independent results more than what a company says about their or a competitors oil. He actually purchased the oils tested or people sent it to him so it is off the shelf stuff and no bias.
Based on his findings I've been using Castrol 20w-50 long life which is formulated for higher mileage engines. I have had the oil tested after 6000 km and it came back all within normal range with minimal viscosity drop and most of the zddp still available.
 

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Any full synthetic that is formulated for motorcycles will be fine. If you have a dry clutch, you don’t even need the oil to be formulated for motorcycles. I used whatever motorcycle synthetic was available in my M900 Monster, changed at 5K to 6K typically (but sometimes as long as 8K), for the 24 years and 265K miles I had that bike, and it never needed a rebuild of the engine or transmission. Your needs probably won’t exceed that.

PhilB
 
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