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Official Thread: 1st Gen Air Cooled HM Chat

319682 Views 2195 Replies 244 Participants Last post by  scrim

A chat/bs/what have you thread for anything and everything related to the original first gen air cooled HM.
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As far as I know the only difference is the diameter of the idle air hose connector. The MWR lid will fit all versions of the OG Hyper.
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As far as I know the only difference is the diameter of the idle air hose connector. The MWR lid will fit all versions of the OG Hyper.
I am hoping to take to the one I can buy (796 etc) and modify it for fitment, while leaving my stock one untouched. So I will need the bottom of the other air boxes to fit my bike (2011 evo SP).
Another one for the brains trust.. does anyone know if the airbox changed between the early 1100 and the 1100 evo/SP? Is the 796 airbox the same as the 1100 evo/SP?

The reason I ask is I am looking at a MWR airbox lid and would like to do the cutting for the mod before pulling mine out, there’s a few older 1100 and 796 ones available. It would also mean I can keep my stock DP one unmolested.
As far as I know they are the same. You can also modify your original one, as the "DP part" is just the lid which you can transfer easily to the replacement airbox. That is at least how I did it.

The MWR lid is great btw! The intake noise is glorious and you get a good bump in power and torque (in case you need any more :devilish:).
Just make sure to clean the filter every year; I just pulled the tank for my annual service and checks, and the filter definitively needs a good cleaning and re-oiling after 4500 km.
As far as I know they are the same. You can also modify your original one, as the "DP part" is just the lid which you can transfer easily to the replacement airbox. That is at least how I did it.

The MWR lid is great btw! The intake noise is glorious and you get a good bump in power and torque (in case you need any more :devilish:).
Just make sure to clean the filter every year; I just pulled the tank for my annual service and checks, and the filter definitively needs a good cleaning and re-oiling after 4500 km.
Nice, thanks for the info and good to hear you enjoy it.

I don’t suppose you have or know of any videos of how it sounds?
I don’t suppose you have or know of any videos of how it sounds?
Unfortunately not.
But when you blip it from idle (when you pull away from a stand still), it reminds me of the intake snarl of a highly strung American muscle V8. It's very addictive!
And at WOT, you'd better wear earplugs 😁
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Try open filters with intake stacks

That's deafening without earplugs & helmet
3
After living with regret after selling my Hyper 1100 Evo, I decided to do something about it. I just picked this up, a 2011 Evo SP with only 11,000kms and in great shape. I gave a 950SP a try, but it didn’t excite me like the 1100 did.

Can anyone confirm if this is a DP slipper clutch? I noticed some slight lever feedback on downshifts, which according to google can be attributed to a slipper clutch. Pulled the cover off and found this:
Wheel Land vehicle Tire Vehicle Automotive tire

Here she is:
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Automotive tire Vehicle brake


Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Automotive tire
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Nice find!

Take the pressure plate off. If it has teeth on the inside it's a non-slipper. If it's smooth it's a slipper.
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After living with regret after selling my Hyper 1100 Evo, I decided to do something about it. I just picked this up, a 2011 Evo SP with only 11,000kms and in great shape. I gave a 950SP a try, but it didn’t excite me like the 1100 did.

Can anyone confirm if this is a DP slipper clutch? I noticed some slight lever feedback on downshifts, which according to google can be attributed to a slipper clutch. Pulled the cover off and found this:
View attachment 1062017
Here she is:
Yes, that is the DP slipper pressure plate. I installed the same clutch on mine.
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Yes, that is the DP slipper pressure plate. I installed the same clutch on mine.
Thanks for that. Seems to work fine, and not cheap from what I've read. A nice score!
Question: I've noticed some cracking on the throttle cam/pulley and people here have mentioned upgrading to a carbon or metal one cos Ducati doesn't sell replacements only the whole assembly.

The guy at the dealer says it's not really an issue since there's a metal part inside.

Is it somewhat inevitable this thing is gonna give way or is it just a slim chance?

While I was at the shop the young lady thought my scary face was "cute" and took a pic for their IG

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Fuel tank
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Is it somewhat inevitable this thing is gonna give way or is it just a slim chance?
A very slim chance for it to completely shatter, the plastic wraps around the metal part completely.
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Question: I've noticed some cracking on the throttle cam/pulley and people here have mentioned upgrading to a carbon or metal one cos Ducati doesn't sell replacements only the whole assembly.

The guy at the dealer says it's not really an issue since there's a metal part inside.

Is it somewhat inevitable this thing is gonna give way or is it just a slim chance?

While I was at the shop the young lady thought my scary face was "cute" and took a pic for their IG

View attachment 1062097
I’ve just ordered one of these to fix the problem, they cost 40 Euro plus shipping. Contact star ace through FB if you want one. I figure I don’t want to risk it breaking, plus it looks better!

Automotive tire Font Circle Auto part Automotive wheel system
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I'm currently in the middle of setting valve clearances on my 1100 EVO, and therefore I took off the belts. As I checked the tensioner bearings, they all seemed pretty dry. Not gritty or particularly worn, but they run very easy and with just a little noise.

Generally, I like my bearings smooth and greased up, but before I replace all 4 of them (which seems quite costly), is there any way I can lubricate them? Or are they supposed to run dry? Or are there any non-Ducati branded tensioners or bearings that don't carry the Ducati-tax?
Here is another alternative.

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Here is another alternative.
A very slim chance for it to completely shatter, the plastic wraps around the metal part completely.
I’ve just ordered one of these to fix the problem, they cost 40 Euro plus shipping. Contact star ace through FB if you want one. I figure I don’t want to risk it breaking, plus it looks better!
Thanks for the help... looking at the pic from Starace it looks like the inner metal piece also holds the end of the cable so the failure point is the guide for the cable on the outer edge of the pulley. I'll keep an eye on mine for now, they're just tiny hairline cracks.
Mine was showing signs of cracking so replaced it with the StarAce version, works well and looks neater in to the bargain.
Tire Hood Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle
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Mine was showing signs of cracking so replaced it with the StarAce version, works well and looks neater in to the bargain. View attachment 1062326
Nice looking piece...but I wouldn't trust my life to anything that guy makes.
Nice looking piece...but I wouldn't trust my life to anything that guy makes.
Whys that?
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Slipper clutch gurus - the clutch on my SP when released/slipped with higher revs (thinking a medium launch off the lights or a hill start, not full throttle) snatches and groans horribly, I can feel it through the bars. Under low RPM it works as I would expect without issue.

Is this to be expected with a slipper clutch? I am thinking not - would it likely be indicative of my clutch stack height being off?

Thanks for any help.
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