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hi all, I just received a new Shindengen F010BA mosfet regulator. However, unlike most of the mosfet regs I've seen, which have 3 connections from the stator, and a positive and negative terminal, this one has 3 stator connections and 3 terminals on the other plug! The reg is from a ZX10R, but I can't find any wiring diagrams to make sense of how it should be wired. My bike (an '05 ST4S ABS) already has furukawa connectors for a mosfet reg, but it is not set up for 3 terminals on the output side. Any electrical gurus on here willing to share some knowledge about how I should plumb the connectors for this regulator? Many thanks in advance!
 

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Just took a look on eBay for the regulator and bike you're talking about. Most have two terminals at the DC output, but I did see a few with three as you describe. The VRRs with two terminals have them at the outer positions of the plug, center open. I think I'd connect the AC side and start the bike, with a good battery, and put a meter on the DC side output to see what you have just to be safe. As long as the POS and NEG connections on your harness side DC plug are oriented the same as the VRR you're going to be fine. If the plug physically connects, I don't see why they would move away from the standard POS / NEG orientation. If they were going to change the orientation of the terminals, you'd expect them to key the plug differently.... Still best to put a meter on it first to be sure. It's very possible the middle terminal is simple not used. Maybe it's a low charge light monitor like the older Ducs had?

Here's my ST set up. I forget which MOSFET VRR I sourced, but the wiring orientation should be pretty standard and match what you have now.
 

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interested, never seen a 3 wire output FH010.

I've got genuine Shindengen FH010BA on my '95 900SS/SP and my VFR800 ...both 2 wire output....issue free in service 7 seasons now.

Revilo...are you certain its not a knockoff/copy?
perhaps not a genuine, Japanese Shindengen?
 

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As per the image posted by SS904, the wiring on the DC side the Positive is closest to the alternator connector and Negative furthest away.

The centre terminal may also be another positive output.

If you have a multimeter (and if not why not!) put it on the lowest resistance scale and measure between the definite positive output and the centre terminal.
First red probe to Pos and black probe to centre.
Then swap the MM probes so black to definite positive output and red to centre.

If it is the same resistance both ways then it is a second/spare positive output and does not need to be connected.

If it is not the same in both directions, report back please.

If it is infinite in both directions, then it is not connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all the replies. I hadn't thought to test the resistance between the two connectors. Cracked out the multimeter, and you are right, they are both positives. I bolted it up, clipped in the stator leads, and tested the voltage. It's putting out over 13V to the battery, RPM dependant, so I'd say it's doing what it is supposed to do. I'm quite confident it is a genuine shindengen unit, here is the ad.

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n223549277?u=%3bmc_parts_department

Hopefully this helps someone else wondering how to hook up a 6 wire shindengen regulator! Will advise if any further issues pop up.
 

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Depending on the battery chemistry, a regulator generally needs to put out above 14V to charge a battery.

Odyssey batteries don't even begin to take a charge until over 13.6.

A Lithium will begin to charge at about 13.1+ but they also should get +14V at higher RPM.

Most MOSFET regs will output above 14V at idle.

What do you get above 2K RPM?

HTH.

M./
 

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Depending on the battery chemistry, a regulator generally needs to put out above 14V to charge a battery.
................
Odd mosfet regulator wiring answer :smile2:
 
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