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Discussion Starter #1
Just to recap...

I have a 1999 996 and sold the motor to fund a newer 999 motor, which I had ported, and installed S cams and 749 54mm Throttle Bodies and Wiseco 13.x:1 compression slugs. Can't remember the exact CR, but I'll measure it anyway once I've blueprinted the bottom end of the motor and rebuilt it.

Anyway, so the basic project is fitting the 999 motor with the shower TBs into the 996 frame (the non-Kyalami, standard 996 frame with the high V cross-brace in front of the vertical cylinder).

The issue is that there's no easy way to fit the 749/999 TBs into this frame, because of that cross-brace.

I waited 4 years before finally deciding to simply grind the cross brace out of the frame and weld a new, lower brace in under the 749 TBs and new 749 airbox bottom piece.

The second problem is the airbox itself....the 996 box does not fit the 749/999 TBs, nor does the 749/999 airbox fit the 996 frame. What to do? Simple, really....use the bottom of the 749/999 airbox to fit the TBs, and then gut the bottom of the stock 996/916/748 airbox out so that it forms the top part of a new "hybrid" airbox, which only requires a simple joining of the two pieces with fiberglass. Problem solved!

So, I went ahead and ground out the cross frame from the frame. (I'll weld a new brace in later, once the new airbox is built.)

Then, I trimmed the airboxes (using the bottom half of the 999/749 airbox and the top part of the stock 996/748/916 airbox, from which I gutted the bottom out)

Test fit...

Here you see the marking tape I used for the rough cut on the bottom half of the 999 airbox...and the gap that needs to be fiberglassed in to connect the stock 996 airbox above it...




Test fit the showers and stacks....





Finally, test fit the tank to ensure no problem with the showers sticking up (no problem found!)





Added some temporary fiberglass strips to join the two halves and hold them steady so that I can remove the new airbox and fill in the gaps properly and permanently, with fiberglass...(already dry and removed here...)





Next step...ordered fresh fiberglass and epoxy resin and some bagging supplies to join the two halves permanently.

Also ordering some stainless steel to make the new exhaust headers to fit the 999 manifolds to the 996 SilMoto Ti 54mm system that I have.
 

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Mmmm hybrid. I love it. Good to know I have options for my 20k plus mileage motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The fiberglass supplies arrived today, so am planning to finish the airbox this weekend, and order the stainless steel for the headers, once I've meausured up what I need.
 

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I love what your doing and think it will turn out to be cool as hell but I also wonder why?

Why not buy a 998 frame and 748R air box?

Or why not go all the way with an 1198 motor?

Carry on with that nasty fiberglass:)
 

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hmmm

Or!!

Use 998 airbox and throttle bodies and not cut your frame at all!? I am doing it and almost done! I did trim the little nub for the coil mounts and rotate the coils. Everything fits great!

2 cents.... :)
 

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Nice job.:)

Pretty much the same that I did when fitting a 1098 engine and injectors into my 996 frame.

The airbox conversion that you have is similar to my one. I only needed the base of the 1098 airbox and graffted that to the bottom of my 996 airbox.

I then covered the inner and out side of the air box in fibreglass matting for strength. Turned out very well. Then sprayed the whole lot in black to seal it.


There are loads of ways to do this sort of conversion and each to their own. Some want to do the conversion for sensible money, others want to spend loads. There is no right or wrong way as long as its safe and the basics are right.


Enjoy your Frankenduke when its done.:D
 

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Looks like what we did on our racebike..
999 bottom with 748R top. Ended up with a HUGE airbox.
 

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I don't think fiberglass sticks to plastic for very long, you may need to come up with a different joining solution. ABS and Polypropylene don't typically adhere to the fiberglass resin. After a few high temp summer days or track sessions, you'll notice the resin start to de-laminate from the plastic and eventually separate completely. I'd bet even now you could slightly twist the box and watch the resin come off.

Plastic welding, or some panel bonding 2 part epoxies made especially for those plastics would probably be what I used. To fill the gap, you can make a backing on one side with cardboard lined with wax paper or something covered with mold releasing agent, and fill the gap with the plastic epoxy. Done right, no-one will be able to tell its not factory.

But I was gonna ask why you didn't use a 998 box.

In any event since you are down this path already, I suggest taking a few pieces of scrap air box, some fiberglass and a few different adhesives and giving it a try before you go all out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I love what your doing and think it will turn out to be cool as hell but I also wonder why?

Why not buy a 998 frame and 748R air box?

Or why not go all the way with an 1198 motor?

Carry on with that nasty fiberglass:)
Simple really...I have the 996 frame and airbox and the 999 motor and airbox already. This is not any type of "ultimate" build...it's simply replacing the 996 motor with a more modern Testastretta motor that I had lying around. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't think fiberglass sticks to plastic for very long, you may need to come up with a different joining solution. ABS and Polypropylene don't typically adhere to the fiberglass resin. After a few high temp summer days or track sessions, you'll notice the resin start to de-laminate from the plastic and eventually separate completely. I'd bet even now you could slightly twist the box and watch the resin come off.

Plastic welding, or some panel bonding 2 part epoxies made especially for those plastics would probably be what I used. To fill the gap, you can make a backing on one side with cardboard lined with wax paper or something covered with mold releasing agent, and fill the gap with the plastic epoxy. Done right, no-one will be able to tell its not factory.

But I was gonna ask why you didn't use a 998 box.

In any event since you are down this path already, I suggest taking a few pieces of scrap air box, some fiberglass and a few different adhesives and giving it a try before you go all out.
hmmm, thanks for the advice. I'll do some tests on the airbox parts cut away and see if there is a bonding issue.

I actually bought another bike today, so did not get down to working on the project. If we're not kayaking tomorrow, then will do some tests and see how it holds up. Worst case is I have to make a full airbox using the hybrid plug, but will try to avoid that, due to my lack of glassing skills :)
 

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:)

Plastic and fibreglass do stick and stay togther very well. Its all in the prep.

Years building boats etc with the stuff tells me Im good to go. :D


Laters,:abduct:
 

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Simple really...I have the 996 frame and airbox and the 999 motor and airbox already. This is not any type of "ultimate" build...it's simply replacing the 996 motor with a more modern Testastretta motor that I had lying around. :)
That is kinda what I thought but not all people have a spare 999 motor laying around.:D

What year is the motor? Didn't the later S model have hotter cams and more HP?

Also when I made my 998evo air box I cut out the inner of the 996 box and cut a 1098 air box in half. Used the 1098 bottom as my plug, layer seran wrap and then one layer of fiberglass let dry and peeled off perfectly and matted to oem plastic box beautifully so you are good to go IMHO.

Layer that nasty shit up and then sand the crap out of it to get it to look good. Nasty stuff to work with.
 

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Hi OB,

I don't mean to sound dumb, but what are bagging supplies?

Thanks!
If I am not mistaken he is referring to "vacuum bagging" as a technique. Do a Google or YouTube search for this... there is plenty of knowledge base material out there.
 
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