[soko]

Hey guys,

I havent ridden my 1100EVO in almost a year. Took it out of storage today and realized the back brakes didnt work...zero pressure in the pedal. I have never messed with the brakes at all since I got it.

Do you think bleeding the brakes will solve the issues? I know it needs to be done since the fluid is pretty dark.


Also, I've never bled brakes before so I was thinking of having this small harley davidson dealer perform the work. Is bleeding the brakes on a Ducati pretty straight-forward to trust any motorcycle mechanic or is this a Ducati Dealer exclusive job?

Thanks fellas

 

[Pard]

Anybody who works on bikes can bleed your brakes. You may want to try it yourself. Not hard to do. Many videos out there.

 

[soko]

Thank you good sir!

Looks easier than I thought, gonna give it a go tomorrow.

 

[soko]

Update:

I bled the rear brake today the same way as the multistrada video above. The fluid was coming out very slowly so I wasn't able to see any bubbles, it was just dribbling out.

I did get some brake pressure back but very little. Brakes barely work now instead of not at all. Do you think I should try using a hand vacuum and bleeding them again?

 

[HyperJB]

Update:

I bled the rear brake today the same way as the multistrada video above. The fluid was coming out very slowly so I wasn't able to see any bubbles, it was just dribbling out.

I did get some brake pressure back but very little. Brakes barely work now instead of not at all. Do you think I should try using a hand vacuum and bleeding them again?

The hyper rear brake is super hard to bleed due to how the line is routed. If you dont have an electric/pnumatic bleeder its hard to pull fluid fast enough to remove all bubbles. I had fits bleeding the bubbles when I drained the rear to install rearsets with a electric banjo for the brake light. I have even had to go as far as half way disassemble the system and lift the caliper up for several hours to let bubbles move up the hose and into the caliper, then bled and repeated until it finally stiffened up.

 

[Pard]

Update:

I bled the rear brake today the same way as the multistrada video above. The fluid was coming out very slowly so I wasn't able to see any bubbles, it was just dribbling out.

I did get some brake pressure back but very little. Brakes barely work now instead of not at all. Do you think I should try using a hand vacuum and bleeding them again?

I would take it in to a mechanic at this point. You may have some sludge in the system that needs to be cleared out. The procedure should go as smoothly as in the videos.

 

[WileECoyote]

How far did you open the bleeder? Are you keeping pressure down on the brake lever when you open the bleeder?

Pump up brake, hold down on lever, crack open bleeder. It should have pressure behind it to force fluid out. If it is just dribbling, yes, you may have shit in the lines.

 

[ariwood]

I had a similar experience. The fix is to remove the rear calipers, raise it above the rear master cylinder then bleed. It's easier for the air to flow up than down.

 

[egomexico]

Update:

I bled the rear brake today the same way as the multistrada video above. The fluid was coming out very slowly so I wasn't able to see any bubbles, it was just dribbling out.

I did get some brake pressure back but very little. Brakes barely work now instead of not at all. Do you think I should try using a hand vacuum and bleeding them again?

This worked for me:

Wasn't being careful and introduced a bunch of air into the rear brake system while bleeding the 1100 eve SP last weekend.

No combination of pedal pumping, using a 'Power Bleeder", and even combined with a vacuum brake bleed pump would get the air out. Couldn't clear the air… pedal fully depressed and no significant rear brake action. Stumped!


Then I realized the bleed nipple on the rear caliper was pointed downward (not upward like on the front calipers). Air running down the brake line coming into the brake caliper would likely get stuck on the high side of the caliper opposite from the bleed nipple.

Solution:
Take the rear brake caliper off and rotate it so the bleed nipple was upward! (actually I rotated it around while pumping fluid to make sure no trapped bubbles). Out goes the train of bubbles.

Problem solved!

 

[soko]

UPDATE:

So I went and got a hand-pump vacuum to use. The first couple tries...I was getting way too many air bubbles in the lines then realized air was getting through around the threads of the bleeder valve.

Put some grease over the threads and then for the first time got no air bubbles in the line and a steady flow of brake fluid. I thought I had solved the problem but I now have ZERO brake pressure...

I'm not exactly sure what to do now...maybe taking off the caliper like ariwood and egomexico.

I might give it another try using the vacuum again...but im confused as why there would be no pressure after receiving no bubbles and a steady flow of fluid.

 

[egomexico]

UPDATE:

I'm not exactly sure what to do now...maybe taking off the caliper like ariwood and egomexico.

I might give it another try using the vacuum again...but im confused as why there would be no pressure after receiving no bubbles and a steady flow of fluid.

Using the Vacuum pump is not that important. The most important thing you need to do is take that caliper out of its place and turn it upside down so that the nipple is placed on the top.

Believe me. I had exactly the same issue. The fluid was coming out clean without bubbles and I had no pressure. The problem is that the bubble is trapped "inside" the caliper and it wont come out if the nipple is down. Remember that bubbles go up on fluids, they never float down.

 

[soko]

UPDATE (Last one)

THANK YOU....to everyone that commented on my issue! Really appreciate it...saved me an expensive trip to the dealer...ya'll rock!

I took the rear caliper off today and turned it upside down...gave a few pumps on the pedal, saw some big bubbles come up in the tube and BOOM, we have brake pressure, finally. Hard as a rock...Now I know what to do next time thanks to you guys.

Next up is bleeding/flushing my front brake and clutch. Quick question...I know I start with the bleed-nipple furthest away from the Master Cylinder.

But do I bleed the master cylinder bleed screw (by the handlebars) first? Or Last? I've seen posts on a panigale owner bleeding the MC screw BEFORE the calipers. Then I've seen a 1198/848 owner bleed the MC screw AFTER the calipers.

 

[egomexico]

UPDATE (Last one)

THANK YOU....to everyone that commented on my issue! Really appreciate it...saved me an expensive trip to the dealer...ya'll rock!

I took the rear caliper off today and turned it upside down...gave a few pumps on the pedal, saw some big bubbles come up in the tube and BOOM, we have brake pressure, finally. Hard as a rock...Now I know what to do next time thanks to you guys.

You're welcome! I know the feeling of being in your situation. The members of this forum have helped me sort many problems.

Next up is bleeding/flushing my front brake and clutch. Quick question...I know I start with the bleed-nipple furthest away from the Master Cylinder.

But do I bleed the master cylinder bleed screw (by the handlebars) first? Or Last? I've seen posts on a panigale owner bleeding the MC screw BEFORE the calipers. Then I've seen a 1198/848 owner bleed the MC screw AFTER the calipers.

I bleed the calipers first and leave the master cylinder bleeding last. Having a MC nipple is a great resource because bubbles tend to float and go up. If there are any bubbles left at the end of the process, you will find them there.