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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any resellers of these? I've been in contact with Nichols for over a week, and so far they can't even be bothered to send me an invoice so I can pay for them. Is shipping overseas too hard for them? ( I'm in New Zealand, maybe they don't like that we have your sailing cup? :grin2: ). Anyway, I need the bolts so I can start putting my bike back together.
 

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Since they distribute through several vendors, perhaps things are a bit slow from the source. You will get good product in the end however it gets to you, but I too, went to the source at first for some minor bits and it was no Amazon delivery experience.

I did get what I wanted, and to add fuel to the fire, once I opened it all up found out my flywheel was already a Nichols! The PO had installed it, and my thinking when I ordered it was I thought I would do the whole job complete while installing a more powerful alternator winding since I was in there anyway. So, having that experience, I give them 5 stars but recommend patience on the transaction. Perhaps hitting up one of this websites sponsoring vendors more experienced with international orders to get your Nichols bling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I eventually received the bolts. I'm guessing I don't need the 2 spacers? And what's the aluminium piece for? Some kind of documentation would have been nice.......

Now I've read a lot about having to drill the thread out of the frame as the Nichols bolt is longer / bigger and won't fit the frame thread. Well the set I got screw right into the frame thread ( M10 ). So what am I missing in thinking I can just screw the stud into the thread and put the supplied nut on the other end, and have 1 nut left over for a spare? Of course the front bolt needs to use both Nichols nuts as the frame there is not tapped.

The actual items I received are first class and very well machined ( I'm a machinist ), but for the price ($500 of my money = far from cheap ), the experience dealing with Nichols to get them in the first place, and then the complete lack of documentation leaves a rather foul taste in my mouth. I'll make another set myself for my other bike for a fraction of the price. We have CNC lathes in our shop so the quality will be the same, and I'll save about $450 ( I don't count my time but it'll take about 2 hours to make the whole lot ).
 

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You don’t need CNC equipment to make a couple of threaded rods, just good material and a die set.
 

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So I eventually received the bolts. I'm guessing I don't need the 2 spacers? And what's the aluminium piece for? Some kind of documentation would have been nice.......

Now I've read a lot about having to drill the thread out of the frame as the Nichols bolt is longer / bigger and won't fit the frame thread. Well the set I got screw right into the frame thread ( M10 ). So what am I missing in thinking I can just screw the stud into the thread and put the supplied nut on the other end, and have 1 nut left over for a spare? Of course the front bolt needs to use both Nichols nuts as the frame there is not tapped.

The actual items I received are first class and very well machined ( I'm a machinist ), but for the price ($500 of my money = far from cheap ), the experience dealing with Nichols to get them in the first place, and then the complete lack of documentation leaves a rather foul taste in my mouth. I'll make another set myself for my other bike for a fraction of the price. We have CNC lathes in our shop so the quality will be the same, and I'll save about $450 ( I don't count my time but it'll take about 2 hours to make the whole lot ).
And that is why I am building my own version of this item as well as the dual titanium nuts for the end of the crank. I had a similar problem in that I could not get a hold of them in the first instance.

You need to drill out the threaded portion of the frame to allow the new stud to pass straight through the frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, but why does the stud need to pass through the frame? What is wrong / not so good, about one end one the stud screwing into the existing frame thread? Why drill out a perfectly good thread?
 

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The threaded portion of the stud in the frame is generally wear they break when they go. By passing the shaft through the frame you effectively remove the portion that is prone to failure. My ones are slightly oversize again and made from titanium nuts on the end and 4140 shaft which it get plated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The ones that break, are they the standard bolts? The Nichols ones you'd hope would be a better grade material ( anyone know what it is? ). From a purely technical point of view, whether the stud is screwed into the frame thread or passes through the frame and has the Nichols nut on it, shouldn't make it break or not break? The threaded portion is the same, and as long as it's torqued up correctly, I honestly can't see it breaking if screwed into the frame, and / or not breaking if passing through the frame.

My original factory bolts have nothing wrong with them, not broken / bent / etc. I'm only putting the Nichols ones in to stiffen the whole shebang, as I can feel it wobbling around when out in the country side.
 

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If that’s the case then you better look for a bigger problem.
 
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In the last 20 years of working on these bikes professionally I probably have seen 2-3 broken motor mount bolts, this is across the brand and has included pass through bolts (no threads in the frame). I do not believe it is a issue that requires changing for the vast majority of owners. That said loose motor mounts can cause broken cases so if you think you will be that minority who might have a failure then by all means change it out.

I would put this mod in the not necessary but why not category, as long as the replacements are at least as strong as oem and the ends are easily able to be torqued by users then I see no issue. One of the issues of going larger diameter and using nuts on both ends is that you need a thin socket and nut to fit in the pockets, if you can not easily get a tool in there you may not check them and then you run the risk of a loose motor mount bolt. Simply make sure that you can fit a tool on either end to maintain torque.
 

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When the bolt threads into the frame the inside edge of the threaded portion is sharp and becomes a stress riser. If the unthreaded portion goes through the frame the stress is on the stronger unthreaded rod material. If you’re making replacement mounting bolts the difference in strength of materials can be significant, though the difference in price is small. Nichols is getting rid of both possibilities for breakage at the same time, better material and better design. That said, I can buy unthreaded rod of much stronger material, cut to length and thread them myself for probably $20, as I already have the die set and cut off tool. Add some good washers and self locking nuts and I’m good to go. I keep my stock mounts tight and will replace them when they fail. My ass is not nearly as sensitive as yours, I can’t tell the difference.
 
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