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New way of fixing your useless rear brake when all else has failed

21423 Views 57 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  mnb
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I've held off on posting this fix I've been riding with for a couple of years now for fear of the safety concern backlash. But seeing the weak rear brake continues to bother many Ducati owners - and Ducati doesn't seem interested in ever fixing it - here it goes with the fix I came up with when all else failed. Just as I put Speed Bleeders on top of ABS module for both the front and rear brakes following these directions ...

Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS1200 Service & Maintenance > ABS / Brakes bleed mod ...

In a similar fashion, I also put a Speed Bleeder on the bottom of the rear brake master cylinder as shown in the pics that follow. Yes, it is partly exposed to the risk of it being damaged by an errant rock, but if you don't have a working rear brake now anyway, what's the difference? Besides, the risk of catastrophic failure is minimal , and if in doubt, you could always rig some protection around it.

Proof that it has worked for the past couple of years? A few days back I once again bled the rear brake, but this time just at the caliper (without detaching it and following the latest hold-it-upside-down-while-standing-on-one-foot-and-chanting-voodoo method that doesn't work anyway) and at the ABS module - not at the Speed Bleeder on the bottom of the rear brake master cylinder.

I strapped the rear brake pedal down over night just for kicks, went for a ride the next morning, and the rear brake was useless. I then used the Speed Bleeder on the bottom of the rear brake master cylinder, a big bubble popped out, and the rear brake has been solid since. Solid enough to activate the ABS.

I am not a motorcycle mechanic - obviously :) - and I can't explain just why this works, but it does, and has for a couple of years now. This is not a fix for everyone, but if you get to the point where all else has failed, you might want to give it a try. Not to mention it is easily reversed if it doesn't' work for you. I hope this helps someone out there who has also had it with their useless rear brake.

2/15/21 Update - Still going strong with this setup. Make sure you activate the ABS after you bleed either the front or rear brakes! After bleeding my rear brake the other day, it felt about 90% solid. I used the Speed Bleeder on the bottom of the rear brake master cylinder, watched a bubble pop out, and now it's back to 100% solid.

Also, this technique allows me to bleed the rear brake without removing the rear caliper, hanging it upside down and all that nonsense. I leave the rear caliper in place as is. Very easy.

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Interesting. Do you literally mean a Speed Bleeder or did you mean a generic bleed nipple?


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Thank you.

I have bought about three dozen Speed Bleeders, installed and used them, and sold the bikes, always kinda wish I had had kept the Speed Bleeders, but they are pretty cheap.

Hope the people who bought my bikes have used them.

I will continue to install and use them.
Interesting. Do you literally mean a Speed Bleeder or did you mean a generic bleed nipple?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh, my bad. Yes, any generic bleed nipple will do. I got hooked on Speed Bleeders and use them all the time. Pros and cons to them though. They are fast and easy, but they can seem to leak out a little. I haven't noticed air getting in, but have noticed a dab of fluid on the tips at times. Seems to be the nature of them. :confused:
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Gotcha. I put bleeders on my ABS module. I might consider putting one on the master cylinder. Thanks for the idea!


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Do you really need a nipple at every location to be able to bleed adequately?

What about reverse bleeding? I don't have a multi, but have found this method to be the quickest, easiest and most efficient option.
systems difficult to evacuate all the air of while using a conventional bleed method, were easily done by injecting brake fluid from the lowest bleed points.
Do you really need a nipple at every location to be able to bleed adequately?



What about reverse bleeding? I don't have a multi, but have found this method to be the quickest, easiest and most efficient option.

systems difficult to evacuate all the air of while using a conventional bleed method, were easily done by injecting brake fluid from the lowest bleed points.


Tried reverse bleeding. Didn’t work, I’m assuming because of the ABS module. Couldn’t ever push any away from the caliper.


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Oh, my bad. Yes, any generic bleed nipple will do. I got hooked on Speed Bleeders and use them all the time. Pros and cons to them though. They are fast and easy, but they can seem to leak out a little. I haven't noticed air getting in, but have noticed a dab of fluid on the tips at times. Seems to be the nature of them. :confused:

try Stahlbus for next time, they dont leak

https://www.stahlbus-us.com/
My Ducati tech installed a bleeder valve on my M1200R last year. Problem solved. Don't know why it's not factory installed.
My Ducati tech installed a bleeder valve on my M1200R last year. Problem solved. Don't know why it's not factory installed.


At the rear master cylinder?


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At the rear master cylinder?
Yes. Here's a picture for you.

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Awesome. Thanks for the pic.


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try Stahlbus for next time, they dont leak
They also offer nice dust caps to protect the bleeder.
Yes. Here's a picture for you.
That is great to see as it confirms my suspicion, and proves I'm not crazy. Oh sure, I'm crazy in other areas, but apparently not in adding a bleeder to the rear master cylinder. :)

Good on that Ducati tech for thinking outside the box instead of replacing rear brake components to no avail as I've read about again and again.
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Tried reverse bleeding. Didn’t work, I’m assuming because of the ABS module. Couldn’t ever push any away from the caliper.
+1. No go here either.

try Stahlbus for next time, they dont leak https://www.stahlbus-us.com/
That is really good to know. I'd feel better not seeing any fluid on the speed bleeders.
My Ducati tech installed a bleeder valve on (the rear master cylinder of) my M1200R last year. Problem solved. Don't know why it's not factory installed.
I'm guessing it's not factory installed because of liability issues. The rear master cylinder is designed to be a simple, sealed, stout unit so it doesn't fail suddenly.

Here's my theory ... because the useless rear brake problem affects Multistradas, Monsters, Diavels, etc, etc ... and those different models incorporate different rear brake designs and plumbing ... it could be that the common denominator is subpar rear master cylinders and/or components therein that Ducati uses.

Kind of like the infamously weak, guaranteed-to-fail shift return springs that Ducati uses in different models.

After owning and tinkering on several different motorcycles of various brands, this is the first time I've been compelled to add a bleeder valve to any rear master cylinder. :confused:
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Is this the same thread size and pitch as the the abs module? I added one there, and made a huge improvement.
Thanks
Is this the same thread size and pitch as the the abs module? I added one there, and made a huge improvement.
Thanks


Did you put the bleeder on the caliper side or the reservoir side?
1. Is this the same thread size and pitch as the the abs module?

2. Did you put the bleeder on the caliper side or the reservoir side?
1. It is on my bike, but I can't guarantee that for every Ducati model. See the specs for my bike in the link in Post #1.

2. On the reservoir side, where the rear brake cylinder is located on my bike. This may not be the same for every Ducati model.

In other news ... I recently saw a YouTube video where an XDiavel owner talked about having had the dealer replace every component of the rear brake system to no avail, but it sounded like he was starting to suspect that the real problem lies with air somehow getting into the rear brake cylinder. It's interesting to see someone else coming to the same conclusion after a while.
Bleeding brake system process

After reading all of the suggestions from the beginning of this thread, I've decided to add the ABS bleeders. Can one of the experts tell me if there is a specific order to bleed the system (front master cylinder, ABS block, and the callipers? I saw mention that it may be necessary to activate the ABS system at some point as well. What is the best way to accomplish this, and when in the process should it be done?
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