Thanks RockAZ that' just the component kits it does not include the mounting kits.
Limey you should be able to get a full strength spark by either rotating the disc with the magnets in it either quickly or at a glacial speed. The gap between the pickups and the disc is established in the design and components and is non adjustable. Unlike inductive pickups the speed of the trigger past the pick ups and the gap between the trigger and the pickups is immaterial to signal strength.I've got my hall effect hardware installed but not running yet.
With everything installed, plugs removed and grounded I'm only able to get spark by holding the starter on. I don't get spark by either turning the back wheel to turn the motor, or by manually rotating the "disc with the magnets in it"
So what I'll be doing is manually positioning the disk somwhat close, and then using a timing light with adustable advance to see how far off I am, and then gradually adjusting the disk and dialling it in.
All of the hatdware Liam has provided is of good quality and seems to be very sound design. Unfortunately I just haven't had the time to devote to getting it all set up as I'm preparing for an overseas trip in a couple days. I wont be able to finish and get out for a test ride for 2 or 3 weeks...
JAFA sorry for the long delay in replying. I have been out of the country on extended Christmas leave.Liam, I read somewhere that the kit only fits certain cam belt covers, and the correct Ducati part number was listed. Can you please post that cam belt part number here for future reference, or PM me. Thanks.
Looking forward to hearing your feed back on the Hall Effect kit?Thanks Liam. I actually picked up a complete set of belt covers from Nick Anglada 2 days ago ( in case I screw up drilling the hole for the rotor ), so now I'm right to go. Will look forward to the TPS when it's ready.
Why would you need lighter pull springs?Like Liam in NZ, I import and sell the TCIP4 here in the USA.
At one time I was going to also offer some FCR upgrades and one of them was lighter pull springs.
I sourced some from a KTM specialist who was making them for the KTM bikes.
He couldn't make enough $$ and so left the MC side of things.
I can't put them on my site as I only have 2 sets and he's not going to make anymore.
So posting here for the folks who are planning to go to a TPS as when you do that you have pretty much gotten to the point where you can install the springs with no added effort.
$37 for a set with postage to USA address.
PM me to discuss,
Some people like a lighter pull, there are 2 springs so for someone with any wrist issues it might be something to think about.Why would you need lighter pull springs?
I saw in an earlier post that you mentioned something about the extra drag of the TPS, but the TPS units have no friction/drag and so do not increase the effort required to either roll on or roll off the throttle?
GotchaSome people like a lighter pull, there are 2 springs so for someone with any wrist issues it might be something to think about. I just threw it out there in case someone could use them as I have just had them on a shelf.
yes there is a physical contact between the TPS spindle and the throttle mechanism but the rehostat's physical resistance to turning is Extremely light and has no internal spring mechanism, etc. No one could tell the difference between the throttle action on a bike fitted with one versus a bike not fitted with the TPS we use.BTW, how are you sensing the position of the throttle is there is no physical contact?
I've assumed the TPS were a specialized rheostat and there is a drag on most of those.
Yes I can't wait to put it all on either!! Got to get the bikes' import inspection done first so I can get it registered, then there's the small matter of moving house and setting up my garage, renovating and selling my old house, then it'll be all systems go. To many non bike things demanding my attention at the moment unfortunately :crying:Looking forward to hearing your feed back on the Hall Effect kit?
I have a 916 throttle assembly on my (split single) FCRs which I fitted for the fast idle setting to help with cold running. It reduces the throttle action significantly to the point where it is too quick but fitting a (916) G2 throttle tamer tube; G2 Street Tamer Throttle Tube - G2 Ergonomics was a big improvement.Some have switched to a single cable 748 throttle. The trick, of course, is to find/build a throttle tube with the correct cable take-up for the FCRs. This will be my next step, perhaps with different springs.