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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
The latest version of the manual is the culmination several years work.

We have just added more diagrams to our manual and more importantly detailed advice on which spark plug leads and coils have proven to give the best results (We have done a huge amount of on road testing and testing on a variety of different makes and models of bikes with an ignition scope to determine which combinations deliver the best performance.)

Getting the HT side of your ignition circuit perfectly tuned to match the Ignitech is worth very noticeable power gains,

The current version of the manual is version 19.

If you purchased an earlier version, just email me and I will send you the latest version for free.

If you would like to buy a copy it costs just $10

I hope everyone understands this is not a get rich quick proposition but a way I can encourage myself to continue the service.

You can read some customer reviews on our manual here and in many of the forums.

The manual can be ordered from our web site here.

The manual will be emailed to you as a PDF.

The next version of the manual will include details on how to setup a quickshifter which is the current project on our Frankencati.

Many thanks

Liam Venter
[email protected]

FastBikeGear, Importers and Distributors of Motorcycle Accessories
 

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If you have an Ignitech, pay the money and get this manual.
The work Liam and his guys (assuming he has some helpers) have put into this is well worth the $10

Thanks for the work Liam, i'll be emailing you for the updated manual shortly.


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I will be emailing shortly for the new version, not many, if any other manuals can you get the latest updated version for free.

Spend the 10 bucks and support a fountain of useful information.

Three thumbs up!
 

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I will be emailing shortly for the new version, not many, if any other manuals can you get the latest updated version for free.

Spend the 10 bucks and support a fountain of useful information.

Three thumbs up!
That third one's not a thumb.

M./
 

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I'd also like to endorse the work by Liam and Co. The updates they've done to the manual and the additional info they provide is invaluable, let alone worth a paltry $10. If you've got or are getting an Ignitech, do yourself a favour...

Regards

Muddy
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Some pics of the hall effect pickup system I made for the project Frankencati to work with a special version of the Ignitech that they make for me.

The parts were 3D printed from ABS by a friend who is as mad as I am.
 

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I just revieved my updated version from liam and must say what a great manual for the ignitech.It is so well written and explained that even i could understand most of it which is saying a lot.Thanks Liam youve really done us all a massive favour with this one.Next up a set of your nology coils and leads. Cheers
 

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Just got my Ignitech and after reading the factory manual that came with it, decided to spend $10 with Liam to help me understand the system a bit better. (Thanks Liam, for sending it while you were on holidays.) I've read it twice and really appreciate the knowledge Liam has put into this. I've experimented with a couple of curves so far but the butt dyno says the Ducati_kokusan_bosch_v88 curve works best on my '96 (FactoryPro jet kit, Dynatech coils) 900SS. Of course, I'm now inspired to add that 3rd dimension of load to create a map, but with stock Mikunis I'd need to fab a TPS mount, something I'm a bit reticent to do. However, I note that load can be sensed by manifold vacuum, measured by a MAP sensor, but there doesn't seem to be much information on this. Is the much simpler application of a MAP sensor worthwhile?
 

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Liam may well correct me on this - but it has always been my impression that MAP sensors are best used on forced intake (turbo/super charger) engines. Not that you couldn't use one on a normal aspirated engine - but if you did, you'd (probably?) still need to fit a TPS, as the Ignitech needs to know where the throttle is at (if only for things like idle position).
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I haven't played with TPS vs MAP sensor on any bikes. I have a TPS sensor on my Ducati 900 SS that works great (I grafted it on to one of my FCR 41mm carbs).

I have one customer running with a MAP sensor but I had no involvement in tuning the Ignitech for that bike but he says it also works great.

The TPS does not need a TPS to know where the throttle is. If you don't run a TPS the Ignitech it just uses the advance setting you have specified in the advance table for whatever revs the bike is running at.

If you have a MAP sensor (or a TPS sensor) it looks up a '3D' fixed table of revs and MAP readings to determine the advance.

I feel that when running with a MAP sensor the MAP sensor should possibly be installed in a plenum chamber to get the most stable readings and ideally this plenum chamber should see the pressure of all the inlet runners but someone more experienced with MAP sesnors would be better suited than me at answering these questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Just got my Ignitech and after reading the factory manual that came with it, decided to spend $10 with Liam to help me understand the system a bit better. (Thanks Liam, for sending it while you were on holidays.) I've read it twice and really appreciate the knowledge Liam has put into this. I've experimented with a couple of curves so far but the butt dyno says the Ducati_kokusan_bosch_v88 curve works best on my '96 (FactoryPro jet kit, Dynatech coils) 900SS.
A bigger performance step will be gained by swapping out to modern low resistance coils. The Dynatechs are very poorly suited to the Ignitechs.
 

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Lol - see - I said he'd correct me - but he IS the guru on Ignitech. The ECU stuff I worked with was car related (an aftermarket ECU, made in NZ by Link). I'd say you're right re the MAP sensor wanting to see a 'common' pressure - not just off one cylinder Liam.
 

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I built a straight 6 turbo intake plenum years back and had to make a manifold tying all 6 cylinders together. I integrated it into plenum, but each one runs up to each runner.

I think a small, maybe few inch long 3\4 diameter tube connected with rubber hose to each intake runner then this tube connected tot he map sensor would work.

Here is that straight 6 intake plenum :)

 

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A bigger performance step will be gained by swapping out to modern low resistance coils. The Dynatechs are very poorly suited to the Ignitechs.
Don't say that! I'd only just bought the Dynatechs to replace the originals. Then one of the Kokusans decided to die, leading me to the Ignitech. That said, I'm very happy with performance so far. If lower resistance coils improve performance further, I'd be very happy, but another set of replacement coils will have to wait for a bit...
 

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I built a straight 6 turbo intake plenum years back and had to make a manifold tying all 6 cylinders together. I integrated it into plenum, but each one runs up to each runner.

I think a small, maybe few inch long 3\4 diameter tube connected with rubber hose to each intake runner then this tube connected tot he map sensor would work.

Here is that straight 6 intake plenum :)

Lovely welds on the manifold - done by your good self? The 3/4" mini plenum suggestion might be worth a try... thanks!
 

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Don't say that! I'd only just bought the Dynatechs to replace the originals. Then one of the Kokusans decided to die, leading me to the Ignitech. That said, I'm very happy with performance so far. If lower resistance coils improve performance further, I'd be very happy, but another set of replacement coils will have to wait for a bit...

I made Liam's recommended switch to a more appropriate coil. Swapping the coils immediately increased rpm at idle 200-300 rpm (can't recall exact number) allowing me to back off the idle screw on my FCR's. I was then able to synch the carbs a little more accurately. Overall the improvement has been most noticeable at lower rpm, and has been worthwhile.


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