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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys
As title says i am new to Ducatis and have a 999, that i would like to run some questions by you all.

My bike is really hard to get started for the first time when its cold, once its warm its not too bad, just had a full engine rebuild, full service and new battery by the dealer i brought it off. Using cold start if on full will turn over for a second before it stops turning over, quarter cold start fires but find it hard to run, also the time clock always resets to zero, once it has been running its not too bad. Yesterday it took a few minutes to get it running and the whole clock assembly went blank, no rev counter nothing, it did come back on eventually.

Not used to twins, is it right for my bike not to run smoothly under 4000 rpm, it has standard gearing, riding through town i am keeping it in first gear above 4000rpm, anything below and the bike is vibrating and protesting like hell, same on the motorway riding in 5th at 80mph, put it in 6th rev drop below 4000rpm and the bike vibrates and protests, and doesn't seem to like it.

Thanks in advance
 

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i would suggest not to touch the cold start lever at all,once its running you can use it to increase the rpm,but before starting its not needed.
many regear the xx9 bikes to make them better for low speed driving.while a proper tune will have them run smoother at sub 4,000 rpm.they do seem to be happier above.try 15-41 to get the low speed revs up,you can also drop a tooth on the front to get near the same results (although some dont like running a smaller counter sprocket)
 

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Well it could be a tight build but lets shoot for the oil. Are you a sing a 20-50 or 10-40. It will turn a bit easier with the 10-40. Not sure of the battery or starter condition but a good place to start, some times new is irrelevant. That said since it was torn down maybe a good check of all the connectors, grounds and some dialetric grease on the connection would help. As far as below 4000. It is not going to behave like an inline 4. They don't like it below 4K. It is the gearing. Needs to be taller. I went with a 15/43 combo and that is no longer an issue. Much quicker as well. However, since I am not ridding it I am not sure exactly what (you) are feeling. Where are you located? You just have to start eliminating things. I would think if they just did a complete rebuild it should be running well, if not I would have turned right around. What precipitated the rebuild in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Guys

Many thanks for the replies, so the under 4000 rpm is normal for the gearing, glad of that, was just wandering if there might of been something wrong with my bike, not used to riding a twin and all that.

When doing the PDI they found a lot of metal filings on the magnetic sump plug and decided to open the engine to investigate, it turned out to have slight play in the main bearings. as i said once started its fine after that, re starts are relatively easy and it runs like a dream.

At the moment cold starting without the cold start leaver is the best option but it will still take a few attempts.

Any idea why the time clock resets to zero when i am having cold start issues.

How i can tell by looking at my battery leads if it has the newer uprated starter cables, if it hasn't i will invest in a kit.

Thanks in advance
 

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also the time clock always resets to zero, once it has been running its not too bad. Yesterday it took a few minutes to get it running and the whole clock assembly went blank, no rev counter nothing, it did come back on eventually.

Thanks in advance

If you're clock is clearing out and your dash is going blank then you're having a problem with large current draw as you press the starter (indicative of high resistance in the starting circuit). Check the condition of the wires from the battery to the starter solenoid, from the solenoid to the starter, and check the ground connection from the battery to the engine. Make sure they're all clean and free of corrosion and making good contact. Many have recommended upgrading the starter wiring for these bikes, do a search and you'll have days worth of reading...
 

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sounds like you might have problems with your power/ground wires. my bike would take forever to start and i use to have to try multiple times. after i installed a new thicker ground from battery to engine, thicker power to starter solenoid, and thicker cable from the solenoid to starter, my bike starts up in one second.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Guys
Thanks for the replies, i read up on the 999 until i went crossed eyed while waiting many weeks to take delivery, i know about the uprated cables and have found a guy in Ebay in the USA selling them, my main question is, the previous owner threw a lot of money at my bike and was wandering is there anyway to tell if i have the original cables or uprated cables fitted, before i go down the route of pulling it all apart and checking connections. The terminals on the battery are very clean and could be new.
 

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check the size of the wires on the bike.. or better yet can you take pics of the cable going to the starter , and the ground cable to engine.? stock wires are very distinct.
 

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Like Rubber said... Get those wires cleaned up. I did the same thing after an electrical fire with mine (yikes).

Clean all those ecu grounds with scotchbright and some sand paper just to be on the safe side. Have the dealer set the CO levels and all that, just as a precationary tune. And most importantly... get rid of the sh*tty wires Ducati put in there.
 

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And most importantly... get rid of the sh*tty wires Ducati put in there.
Actually, with the 999, you want to double up on the wires, by running your new wires over, on the outside of the OEM connections. The OEM wires have splices that run to some important electrical items, and you don't want to go for re-splicing everything. Doubling up is what Mike recommends for his Hi-cap wires on the 999, for example, so that you have both OEM and the new wires running simultaneously. Just be sure to clean all the terminals correctly, and use some good oxidation control goo to keep them from becoming gunked up in the future.

And, yes, Ducatis hate to run below 4000 rpm. It's kind of an Italian thing. :D

Ron
 

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Yes double up on the ground and power coming off the battery. I only replaced the ground going to the engine and the power from solenoid to starter. The genius that worked on my bike before me taped the ground terminal on. It was not crimped just tape holding it on. So one day when I changed my battery the ground terminal came off. So I was able to replace the cable going to engine.

In the pic you can see the factory terminal first, middle is the terminal to the new 4 gauge wires I made .
 

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Actually, with the 999, you want to double up on the wires, by running your new wires over, on the outside of the OEM connections. The OEM wires have splices that run to some important electrical items, and you don't want to go for re-splicing everything. Doubling up is what Mike recommends for his Hi-cap wires on the 999, for example, so that you have both OEM and the new wires running simultaneously. Just be sure to clean all the terminals correctly, and use some good oxidation control goo to keep them from becoming gunked up in the future.

And, yes, Ducatis hate to run below 4000 rpm. It's kind of an Italian thing. :D

Ron
I went ahead and replaced most of the wiring in there due to the fire. Molten copper is not a wiring harnesses' friend... :eek:
 

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If the bike is setup properly (tuned and has no other issues) the cold start lever aka throttle advance SHOULD be used when 1st starting the bike up. It's not to used once the engine is warm. The varying part of the procedure is how much you advance the lever, a bit or allot.....but it's there for a reason and is part of the normal and reccomended cold start up procedure.



i would suggest not to touch the cold start lever at all,once its running you can use it to increase the rpm,but before starting its not needed.
many regear the xx9 bikes to make them better for low speed driving.while a proper tune will have them run smoother at sub 4,000 rpm.they do seem to be happier above.try 15-41 to get the low speed revs up,you can also drop a tooth on the front to get near the same results (although some dont like running a smaller counter sprocket)
 

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If the bike is setup properly (tuned and has no other issues) the cold start lever aka throttle advance SHOULD be used when 1st starting the bike up. It's not to used once the engine is warm. The varying part of the procedure is how much you advance the lever, a bit or allot.....but it's there for a reason and is part of the normal and reccomended cold start up procedure.
going by what i was told when i bought my bike new,and by a ducati service tech later.after near a decade of ownership ,multiple services etc.my bike has never needed the lever.and as stated many times the ecu richens for cold starts ,
 

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Actually, with the 999, you want to double up on the wires, by running your new wires over, on the outside of the OEM connections. The OEM wires have splices that run to some important electrical items, and you don't want to go for re-splicing everything. Doubling up is what Mike recommends for his Hi-cap wires on the 999, for example, so that you have both OEM and the new wires running simultaneously. Just be sure to clean all the terminals correctly, and use some good oxidation control goo to keep them from becoming gunked up in the future.

And, yes, Ducatis hate to run below 4000 rpm. It's kind of an Italian thing. :D

Ron
Question: so, you run two terminals from the batt to the start solenoid and likewise for the ground?. I have a 1098S and would love to upgrade the terminals but am afraid due to the fact that they have other systems spliced, as you pointed out. The only alternative to the upgrade is the lithium batt, $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the help guys, when i took the battery box off the cables looked a little dodgey so i have ordered a set from a company in the USA.
 

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Yep, just a manual throttle cable advance. A slight bump is normally all it takes to get the idle up around 1,300 or 1,400 rpms which just ensures you don't get a cold start stall.

I have had 3 999 models over the past years and all liked a slightly different lever set. It air temps are above 60 F I use just a tiny input....enough to get a few extra rpms on the start. I don't leave it advanced more then a few seconds normally....unless air temps are really cold


I could have sworn that cold start lever is only a way to hold open the throttle a little without actually touching the throttle. I mean it just makes the throttle cable tighter, right?
 

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When I had my airbox off I noticed that the fast idle cable was way out of wack adjustment wise. Ducati suggests IIRC 20mm of bare cable showing where it attaches to the rear TB linkage. My cable was frayed and needed to be replaced. So who knows how much attention was paid to proper adjustment at the factory.
I got a pretty good starting procedure tip from TomTom refarding my kitted 999. Hold the throttle half open and allow the engine to crank 4 times. Shut it off manually. Wait about 1 minute. Leave throttle closed, push starter and allow it to cycle thru. If it fails to fire, start procedure again. So far it's worked nearly flawlessly. It's a bear to start when temps dip into the 30s and 40s. This procedure seems to work very well for some reason. IIRC it's because of the fuel evaporation due to the cold temps???
Every Duc seems to have it's own idiosyncratic way of starting.
 

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When I had my airbox off I noticed that the fast idle cable was way out of wack adjustment wise. Ducati suggests IIRC 20mm of bare cable showing where it attaches to the rear TB linkage. My cable was frayed and needed to be replaced. So who knows how much attention was paid to proper adjustment at the factory.
I got a pretty good starting procedure tip from TomTom refarding my kitted 999. Hold the throttle half open and allow the engine to crank 4 times. Shut it off manually. Wait about 1 minute. Leave throttle closed, push starter and allow it to cycle thru. If it fails to fire, start procedure again. So far it's worked nearly flawlessly. It's a bear to start when temps dip into the 30s and 40s. This procedure seems to work very well for some reason. IIRC it's because of the fuel evaporation due to the cold temps???
Every Duc seems to have it's own idiosyncratic way of starting.
You still having issues even after the new starter and wiring bump?

I start in 30 degrees now with no extra kicks, almost... asian bike like! :eek:
 
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