Some more tips
#1: Check your engine mounting bolts for proper torque setting both front and rear, *right now.*
#2: Get prepared to deal with the ordeal of removing and replacing the body panels. It's best to start at the bottom and then the top and then mid panel when removing, and starting at the mid panel and then going to the top and finally the bottom when replacing, remembering to refit all parts loosely at first and then snug up. If you're going to R&R the panels, don't do it when you're short on time.
#3: Pay attention to your chain tensioning adjuster bolts before a ride as they tend to back out and that could result in the adjuster snapping or the plate turning into the rear sprocket. Some riders add a smear of silicone to the back side of the bolt, others safety wire them down, I like to torque the grease free bolts down and mark a dab of paint at the top and check for movement before each ride.
#4: When refitting the rear wheel, makes sure *all* contacting surfaces are free of grease and that includes inside the SW box section, axle adjusters etc. Add a little grease only to the axle nut threads and a light smear on the axle shaft.
#5: The bike sounds well sorted, with some nice add-ons but check to see if it has a case saver behind the front sprocket cover. If not, get one.
#6: If the tires are new, raise the rear ride height so there's between 5-10 MM's between the tire and the ground when on a flat surface if the PO didn't already raise it. If you do need to raise it, dial out some compression and preload, dial in some rebound. Retension/align the chain a little on the loose side.
#7: When disconnecting the fan motor from the loom, the white connector tab does not compress, it slides under the retaining flange, pry the flange up while pulling the connector apart.
#8: When refitting the air box, get a longer front bolt and add a spacer, (some steel brake line maybe) so the head is accessible below the frame that way you'll be able to remove and replace it much more easily next time you remove the air box.
#9: When refitting the oil sump screen, make sure it's torqued down well so it won't back out because if it does, it will block an oil galley with very bad results.
#10. Make sure the front axle is aligned so you can access the compression adjuster: there are notches in the fork and axle that align.
#11: There are several ways of aligning the chain. I sue a vernier caliper pinching the gap between the inside of the hollow axle and the adjuster plate on top of the adjuster nuts. When both sides are equal, the chain is aligned. YMMV.
#12: Don't be alarmed at the wooden feel of the rear brake. Use it every rise. I sometimes use it exclusively in controlled braking situations. It will bed in over time and get much better re feel and binding power. Many ST riders prefer that type of braking action as it's purt near impossible to lock it up unless your standing on the lever.
#13: You may experience a front brake shudder/judder. There are many thoughts as to the causes, cures and preventions. Search the threads and read for yourself. I, personally, have come to the conclusion that in my case, it was the rotors buttons, not warped discs, that caused it, and once I loosened them up, it was the final step of alleviating the judders having previously swapped brake pad. YMMV.
It sounds like you have a nicely sorted bike. Enjoy the shit out of it.
