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Discussion Starter #1
I'm at maximum adjustment for the chain and it's still too loose. That shall be replaced. 18k miles...sprockets look OK to me but I'm biased towards NOT doing extra maintenance. Objective opinions only please...none of that "just to be safe" garbage talk.
991050
991051
 

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Your rear sprocket is visibly worn... if you want to get good life out of your new chain then change the sprockets too (that wear will cause the new chain to stretch prematurely to match it).

Alternatively... buy a cheap chain and go for it.

When I was touring my chain crapped out on the west coast so I had a cheap chain installed without swapping the sprockets... it lasted 5000 miles or so but it was $80 IIRC (very cheap)... maybe worth it if you want to wring every dollar out of those sprockets... but it required frequent adjustments so was more of a PITA that it was worth IMO (I'd not do it again except if I was touring and didn't want to deal with ordering parts)
 
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Dave is correct typically chain and sprockets replaced as a set last longer. However, having lots of bikes I split my time with or when racing I often did not replace as a set. As for your rear, it’s worn but not at the end of it’s life, (IMO). My rule of thumb which has served me well in the +40 years of constant riding, if you can pull the chain straight back off the sprocket more than half the height of the teeth, it’s time to replace.
 
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It IS a bit annoying to throw out sprockets that clearly have plenty of life left in them... I wonder if anyone makes chains designed for "second chain" application.

Basically...as sprockets and chains wear together, the chain stretches a bit and the sprockets wear to match that stretch... so a "second chain" chain would be designed to start out at the length that a normal chain ends its life - that way it would match the profile of the sprockets and NOT prematurely stretch due to link lengths not matching the link lengths the sprockets want.
 

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You can always use the F.U.F. method--but when using this make sure you have a comfortable pair of shoes, a fully charged cell phone & a credit card with a good open balance.-----F.U.F. = Forget Until Failure---you have said your chain cannot be adjusted anymore--It's worn out---The rear sproket if you install a new chain will cause premature wear on the new chain. --It's a never ending circle--Replace both sprockets & chain with good quality parts--(not the cheapest shit you can find) Then ride & enjoy your bike
 

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When in doubt, take the high road. (P.S> I did at the first 600 miles service)
Change all three: front and rear sprocket and chain.
If you want a brand new (or near new) OEM sprocket, I have one for sale.
Honestly, don't buy it. Get a 42T. You'll love it.
 

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agree on the 42 tooth on the rear, just did mine and it makes 5th and 6th way more usable. I got 20K miles on my old setup, odd thing it seemed fine but 20 k miles is a lot for a chain. I lubricate every 200 miles so maybe that is why it lasted so long.
 

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agree on the 42 tooth on the rear, just did mine and it makes 5th and 6th way more usable. I got 20K miles on my old setup, odd thing it seemed fine but 20 k miles is a lot for a chain. I lubricate every 200 miles so maybe that is why it lasted so long.
I know we're on the same page about the 42T.
I never lube my chain for the sake of lubing. Because it does not need lubing for the sake of lubing.
It's a old myth.
A modern chain needs cleaning to last longer, not lubing.
I'm going to get a lot of flack for this but it's true.
Modern chains have embedded grease. They need cleaning to get rid of road grime.
Once clean, a bit of oil ( Pam, ,Mazola , olive, any oil etc) to prevent it from rusting is all it needs.
Blasphemy...I know.
 
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It IS a bit annoying to throw out sprockets that clearly have plenty of life left in them... I wonder if anyone makes chains designed for "second chain" application.

Basically...as sprockets and chains wear together, the chain stretches a bit and the sprockets wear to match that stretch... so a "second chain" chain would be designed to start out at the length that a normal chain ends its life - that way it would match the profile of the sprockets and NOT prematurely stretch due to link lengths not matching the link lengths the sprockets want.
NO, this is absolutely not a thing :rolleyes:
 

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I didn't read the thread, but looked at the pictures. You need a new front and rear sprocket as well as a new chain. However, you could run your current setup for a while. When you replace, it must be all three. If that rear was aluminum, teeth would be sheering off soon under hard acceleration.
 

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Change them all at the same time. It'll save you having to disassemble to replace the sprockets at a later date. The cost for new sprockets makes it not worth the aggro.
 

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G'day, way back in the day When I had my first couple of bikes we used to reverse the sprocket and flip the chain over to go the extra mile, but I am talking Ariel, Royal Enfield etc. I recently watched a video on Utube where the bike mechanic was replacing the sprockets and chain on a multistrada. He seemed to make a lot of sense saying that because the front sprocket usually turns at a ratio of about 3:1 compared with the rear one he would tend to change the front one at 10,000 klm and 20,000klm then change the whole set at 30,000 klm.
There was also a good explanation of why sprocket ratios should not be a perfect 3:1. He explained that if they are perfect the same sprocket teeth are wearing against the same chain links all the time, whereas a non perfect ratio gets a bigger mix of teeth and link. Made sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All very interesting. I thank you for your input. I'm going to install a new chain and run it down. Sprockets next time around.
 

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Every reply: "Install new sprockets with the new chain"
Discussion starter: "thank you for your input. I'm just going to install a new chain and run it down "
😑
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not every reply. 3 people were on the fence.

Unrelated: How many links do I need for a 530 chain?
 

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Unrelated: How many links do I need for a 530 chain?
530, 525, 520 is irrelevant as they're all the same pitch length per link. 530 is the width.
The number of links depends on if it's a 1200 or a 1260 which is longer.
An accurate answer is also contingent on the size of the sprockets you intend to install.
To answer, we need your model year and the number of teeth of both the front and the rear sprocket you intend to use.
 

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108 for stock gearing of a 1200. 114 for stock gearing of a 1260.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2015 1200S.

Here's my rationale...it is probably batshit crazy. (I'm neither a novice nor a total meiser just to be clear.)

Let's say my sprockets have 25% life left. New sprockets are around $250. So if I replace now, I'm throwing away $62.50 worth of sprocket.

SO, I buy a $50 chain and run these sprockets until they are dead or until the new inexpensive chain stretches out and then I replace with new sprockets and a new DID X-ring GOLD fancy schmancy chain.

After all that, I'm at least $12.50 ahead of the game. And I don't have to change my damn sprockets this week.
 

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A redneck solution which you may be able to get-away with is removing a link and just purchasing a new master link. Never heard of anyone doing this but WTF, it may work if the eccentric has enough range.
 

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Just keep a close eye on wear... a hole in your case will certainly screw your cost saving estimate. For me the constant adjustment is a lot more of a pita than it’s worth to save a few bucks (though it was better than waiting for parts in the middle of a tour).
 
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