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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I'm new to this site, ducati's, and bikes in general, but I am very eager to learn all that I can. I'm a 20 yr old college student out in california. I recently purchased a used 1997 900SS/CR with 25000 miles on it for 2650 :D . I bought it knowing that ducati's can be expensive to maintain, but I'm willing to put in all the work necessary for this bike. It was luv at first sight. Here's the best picture I have of her for the moment.

When I was first showed the bike it seemed running well enough. I took it to a parking lot to get better acquainted. I've not ridden much, just learning on this bike, so naturally stalled a number of times :( . Anyhow now my bike won't start up. Will many consecutive start ups kill the battery? Will trying to start the bike without the choke fully open have adverse effects? Sometimes it turns and won't fire; and other times it won't even turn :( . What could be the problem, how will I know and what to do? Please some help! p.s. I'm uber poor at the moment so hopefully you don't suggest sending to a dealer.
 

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Don't know much about the two valver's. But it sounds as if you just might have run the battery down. I know on the SBK's it helps to keep the battery up full with a Battery Tender or similar type charger. Try charging it up. The battery may be on it's last leg. As with anything always go from the simple to the complicated. Also try and get a manual for your new ride. They have troubleshooting guides that can be helpfull in pointing you in the right direction when you do have a problem. Duc's really are not that complicated to work on just quirky. You have already found a great resource in this board. Learn the little tips and tricks to these bikes and then you can replace the fear of the unknown with the fun of riding them. Ken.
 

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Sounds like a battery...maybe. Starting without the choke wont hurt a thing. Try jump starting it. In second gear, get it rolling good with the clutch in and then dump the clutch. DON'T DROP IT. If it cranks, let it run and charge for a while and see what happens. Sure wont hurt anything to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice. I just checked my battery w/ a voltmeter and it read 11.73 ish which is pretty good so that rules out the battery :confused: Open to any advice. you tell me what to check and I'll check. I'm blessed w/ the Haynes service manual for 900SS 91-96. oh and don't mind blnk124 hes just my twisted friend. A friend just told me though that a volt reading doesn't tell me how charged the battery is. Is there a way to find that out?
 

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Voltage reading doesn't tell you crap but the voltage reating. Starting is amperage. It may show 12 volts but not pull any amps to turn that sucker over. I don't know a way to check it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I tried to start it I noticed the lights dim, so I think thats an indication of dead/dying battery. I haven't owned the bike long enough to know if thats normal or not. I'm planning to use jumper cables to connect it to a "not turned on" car battery and then seeing if I can get it started. Anyone know if that is effective?
 

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icemako7 said:
Thanks for the advice. I just checked my battery w/ a voltmeter and it read 11.73 ish which is pretty good so that rules out the battery :confused:
11.73V means that your battery is DEAD. A healthy battery should be above 12.5V

Recharge it and try again.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Much thanks Tom. :) Just bought a 12V 750A battery charger should do the trick. I found this info here online too
|State of Charge| |Specific Gravity| |Voltage (12V, 6V)|
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

*Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 (12v Battery) or 6.2 (6 volt battery). Sulfation hardens the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.
So you said I'll try to keep it at 12.5 now :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the compliment :) . I did recharged the battery and my bike was up and running, but after a couple starts it was unable to hold its charge. So time to buy a new one. Another concern of mines is the bike's chain. Doesn't it appear too loose to you?





Is it simple to tighten the chain? Is the back wheel moved out further or something? OMG :mad: ! I just saw the rear spocket teeth appear a lil warped (mostly likely due to the loose tension) and two of the teeth have broken off! :eek: If I fix the chain tension is it still imperative that I get a new rear spocket (tight budget)? If so what sorta price should I be expecting. I see two 37 tooth rear sprockets for the 900ss on ebay.
First ones ~%65
- Brand New Rear ALLOY Sprocket by AFAM pt# 51602H37-37
- Most OEM's demand a maximum run out of .5mm, all AFAM sprockets have a maximum run-out of .2mm :confused: :confused: :confused:
- Aluminum Rear Sprockets are made from heat treated 7075-T6 Aluminum
Others ~$35
- C45 High-Carbon steel or 7075T6 Aluminum Alloy for the rear sprockets
Why the difference in price? Which should a low budget yet safety concern student buy? :(
 

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If your sprocket has broken teeth, then yes, it absolutely must be replaced and you shouldn't ride the bike like that. I doubt too much slack would have caused that. It's actually better to run the chain a bit too loose rather than too tight. See that diagram on your swingarm? That tells you what the slack should be, measure it to see. Likely the wear is due to it's the age. How many miles are on the bike, and is it the original chain and sprockets? Usually you can get about 20k miles from a set. If you have that many miles, you should change both sprockets and the chain. Normally you want to change them all at the same time. If you use new sprockets with an old worn out chain, or vice versa, you're just going to wear out the new components more quickly. Not what you want to hear, I'm sure, but bikes do require some minimum maintenance, and good sprockets and chain are a safety issue. If you want longevity out of your sprocket, get a rear steel one, not aluminum. Aluminum weights less, so it's good for track applications, but it'll wear out faster.

Edit: Just looked at your first post and saw that the bike has 25k miles on it. I'm going to assume that the chain and sprockets are original, since it sounds like they're in bad shape. I've always had to change them at about 20k, so it sounds like you need a new chain and new front and rear sprockets...
 
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