[miguel0227]

Hi, My name is Miguel and I'm 59, I live in Lynchburg, VA and I'm a fan of riding the Blue Ridge. I did it many times with all my previous bikes , but this is my first Ducati, it is a mature 2004 Ducati. Multistrada 1000DS a failure with the throttle, it starts and idles very well, and after 4000RPM is ok, but in mid range between 100 and 4000 it CHOKES, so it is almost impossible to ride, I checked pump and Gas pressure, and is ok, Spark plugs OK, Air filter OK, battery is new.
I have no experience with ducatis, but it is possible some FUEL INJECTION FAILURE from the ECU?
Do somebody here knows a good DUCATI technician or Mechanic? I was at FRONTLINE EUROSPORTS at Roanoke but looks like they don't want to work in old bikes.
The engine does not leak, no smoke, everything is perfect even idling does not stall, but you have to start your ride playing with the clutch since BELOW 4000 RPM it chokes.
Any idea I do not want to sell it as is but if I am forced I will do

THANKS IN ADVANCE
Miguel

 

[Spence]

I don’t know the answer to this however I would start with fresh fuel and cleaning the injectors.
sorry that ur not enjoying ur new bike.

 

[miguel0227]

I don’t know the answer to this however I would start with fresh fuel and cleaning the injectors.
sorry that ur not enjoying ur new bike.

Will do that, is the only thing that I didn't checked, I appreciate the response

 

[998-MDG]

Welcome and sorry to hear you're having issues. Duc Pond Motorsports in Winchester can get you sorted, Donnie Unger knows his way around Ducati's.

 

[Damascus]

I don’t know the answer to this however I would start with fresh fuel and cleaning the injectors.
sorry that ur not enjoying ur new bike.

Agreed. Syphon out the old gas, add new gas, and maybe throw in some Star Tron or a similar cleaner. I did that after trying everything else with a friend's scooter that had been sitting for a couple of years as he battled cancer and it came back to life.

 

[Ricko]

If you have an exhaust valve, look that its operating normally and isn't stuck in the closed position. Normal operation is closed at idle and open at 4k rpm.

Easy to find, where the 2 headers come into one, there should be a small pulley with a wire, rotating a butterfly inside the piping. Remove cable, make sure butterfly is moving and in open position, and try the bike like that.

 

[Ricko]

Oh I read your post again and see it's going good after 4k so not the valve.

Maybe a tps problem.

 

[StraDuc]

I will +1 on Donnie at DucPond.

 

[dspear99ca]

Run it in the 1000-4000rpm range where it has problems, hit the kill switch and pull over and pull a plug. What does it look like?

 

[miguel0227]

If you have an exhaust valve, look that its operating normally and isn't stuck in the closed position. Normal operation is closed at idle and open at 4k rpm.

Easy to find, where the 2 headers come into one, there should be a small pulley with a wire, rotating a butterfly inside the piping. Remove cable, make sure butterfly is moving and in open position, and try the bike like that.

Will chack that Thanks!!

 

[dspear99ca]

Will chack that Thanks!!

There's no exhaust valve until at least 2010 model year.

 

[miguel0227]

There's no exhaust valve until at least 2010 model year.

Correct, I just take a look few minutes ago, there is no valve in my exhaust, I have replaced all the gaskets of the exhaust system when I bought it and didn-t see it, just to to be sure i did a double check.

 

[miguel0227]

CHRONICLE Part II
Well, getting more in use and taking things with calm I will give another chance before I sell it for 2 grand.
Was reading a lot about the fuel system and it looks that is not so complicated as DUCATI wants to make us to believe.
Of course nothing to do if there is a Software ECU Problem. but here is a list of what I think to do to solve the problem without visit a Ducati Dealer

1. Trying to avoid the nasty "SEATANK" removal, first of all I bought a Injector cleaner which I already put in the tank at the right % with gas, I will make run for a while and see.
2. I will also replace the Spark Plugs, but honestly I dont think that those FOUR SPARKS will fail
3. TPS FAILURE? It sounds very sensate to me that the TPS, which is a potentiometer, has some wear close to idling position, just like a potentiometer in the old radios remember? touching the volume knob make noise at the beginning and then you get a JUMP TO FULL LOUD volume in a very tiny movement. This effect in the TPS could result in a "bad reading" of the throttle position by the computer in the very initial 2° to 5° degrees of the throttle (noise), then it jumps and start working well the rest of the movement. Who knows... so I just bought a new TPS in eBay for $39. Here will need to remove the"seatank" I know😕
4. INJECTORS II, Well.. once I already removed the seatank, for the TPS, probably is a good time to clean the injectors outside the bike, with cleaner and a battery
5. General cleaning , lube and verifications of stuff, Air filter is clean already..
6. Get a Jap bike
   

 

[ducvet]

Just to be clear the bike is cutting out between 1000-4000rpms?
And not just rough running in that range, Ducatis do not run well much under 3500rpm as they were not intended to be run that low. Mid range on a 2-valve ducati would be 4000-6000rpm high rpm would be 6000-8000rpm (probably done by 7500). There is a difference though from not happy and cutting out as you know but I wanted to make sure it is not just another new Ducati owner expecting smooth power at 2500rpm from the factory.

How long since the valves were done?
Leakdown test?
compression test?
the year you have was known for bad valve guides so were they done?
how many miles?
Tps could be the issue but you will need to reset it with software after installing a new one so check that it is bad first in Mv before removing it from the bike.
Any air leaks?
Has the bike been modified (exhaust or airbox, any aftermarket fuel device like a power commander)?
Air bypass screws setting?
Any chance you can check air fuel?
Has the fuel injection ever been adjusted (trim adjust, synchronizing throttle bodies).

 

[JJmultistad]

Maybe check the compression and make sure your motor is healthy before going much further.

 

[miguel0227]

Just to be clear the bike is cutting out between 1000-4000rpms?
WELL, it starts and idles VERY STABLE, then ... if its cold, the minimum movement on the gas makes it stall. If you play with quick shots on the gas grip making the bike reach the 4000 RPM then it stays there well, if release 1 or 2 degress then the sound is "DOGHGHGHHHH "" (like air intake clog) and stalls. Start it again W/O touching the gas at all, and then starts again idling nicely again. It can be like that hours if you dont touch the gas.

And not just rough running in that range, Ducatis do not run well much under 3500rpm as they were not intended to be run that low.
This is impossible to ride in 1st gear or 2nd gear as normally all bikes do. JUST GO TO 4000RPM and PLAY WITH THE CLUTCH.

Mid range on a 2-valve ducati would be 4000-6000rpm high rpm would be 6000-8000rpm (probably done by 7500). There is a difference though from not happy and cutting out as you know but I wanted to make sure it is not just another new Ducati owner expecting smooth power at 2500rpm from the factory.
No buddy, believe me, I had another MTS100DS long time ago then I owned 10 jap bikes 600 1000 and 1200 which I repaired or cosmetically or changed engines and flipped out, is nothing of that , is not about unhappy or trying to make MOTOGP's FINE TUNING of small thigns , no, this is about unrideable.

How long since the valves were done?,
Next sevice of valves is about 4000 miles from now (previous owner told, no history)
Leakdown test? No, as far as I know
compression test? No, but believe me that the power is impressive once you get 60 MPH quick responses, even wheelies if not pay attention.

the year you have was known for bad valve guides so were they done?
VAlve service Redline, close to VA Beach If I don't remember wrong from what the previous guy told me. anyways I let you know that the bike does not smoke , does not consumes oil, and the engine is clean with no sweats.

how many miles? 38K
Tps could be the issue but you will need to reset it with software after installing a new one (is that something that I can do at home?), I have no SW nor computer interface.
1) I think I read that there is a DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE from the cluster buttons and the start key that can be done in this model with error codes to perform TPS diagnosis? do you know the steps
2) I Will try to do that (mV) does not look complicated, I dont have the coil, It can be nmeasured in the rear of the TPS sensor plug right? do you know the pins?

Any air leaks? I didn't see any when I removed the seatank last time, but if I remove it again will check that.
Has the bike been modified (exhaust or airbox, any aftermarket fuel device like a power commander)?
Definitely not, all factory
Air bypass screws setting? Not Checked, don't know which ones are.
Any chance you can check air fuel? No
Has the fuel injection ever been adjusted (trim adjust, synchronizing throttle bodies). No idea, but looks that the engine havent been touched for a looong time, the previous guy was running without gaskets between exhaust pipes with all them loose and rattling, I have replaced all exhaust gaskets, new flange in the belly muffler (I guess California model), I bought it from a rich guy that used it as a toy and when the battery was dead he sold it.

 

[miguel0227]

Maybe check the compression and make sure your motor is healthy before going much further.

Engine is healty, I promess.
Thanks for the response

 

[ducvet]

" it starts and idles VERY STABLE, then ... if its cold, the minimum movement on the gas makes it stall. If you play with quick shots on the gas grip making the bike reach the 4000 RPM then it stays there well, if release 1 or 2 degress then the sound is "DOGHGHGHHHH "" (like air intake clog) and stalls. Start it again W/O touching the gas at all, and then starts again idling nicely again. It can be like that hours if you dont touch the gas. "

sounds lean is there any backfiring in the airbox?
any backfiring out the exhaust?

Idle is controlled by the IAC motor which is a computer controlled air leak. No reason anyone should have modified a stock bike ecu but it sounds as if it thinks it should have a O2 sensor.
What did the old plugs look like?

" no, this is about unrideable. "
I assume you verified that both timing belts are there and timed right.? Had to ask as I had a guy once try and re-jet his carbs for a couple weeks when he was running on one broken timing belt. I have also seen a bike where a dealer installed the belts at the wrong cam timing. Worth verifying if you have not done so. Guides only smoke on decel and are a normal wear item as well so you might not see smoke.

I have seen tight / burnt valves as well as loose valve guides run poor down low and full power up high so a leakdown test may help. Your description does sound more like a fuel issue though.
The codes in the dash will only be there if a sensor sends one, you need software to reset a tps. I have had numerous TPS failures and not once have they sent any code.

" It can be nmeasured in the rear of the TPS sensor plug right? "
Yes I do not remember which wires look at Brad blacks website to see if his write up lists them.

 

[miguel0227]

sounds lean is there any backfiring in the airbox?
any backfiring out the exhaust?
Never in the airbox, I heard only once or twice backfires in the exhaust, when trying to start after one or two weeks stopped. then I do many "gas grip playing once after the other", un til starts, but again.. it happened just once or twice all this time that I was trying to crank it on weekends to keep it ok once a week. Does not happens often.
Once it starts and is 3 minutes idling, I shut down and starts very quick after 2 revolutions of starter, even the next day.

Idle is controlled by the IAC motor which is a computer controlled air leak. No reason anyone should have modified a stock bike ecu but it sounds as if it thinks it should have a O2 sensor.
There is no O2 Sensor in the exhaust, you mean that the "ECU thinks that" right?
What did the old plugs look like?
Very thin black carbon layer, not brown.
I assume you verified that both timing belts are there and timed right.?
Not Actually, it is a possibility, but since it looks so fine idling I thought that should be ok, I didn't reach that point of complexity.
Had to ask as I had a guy once try and re-jet his carbs for a couple weeks when he was running on one broken timing belt. I have also seen a bike where a dealer installed the belts at the wrong cam timing. Worth verifying if you have not done so. Guides only smoke on decel and are a normal wear item as well so you might not see smoke. Gotcha, looks like I have to verify the belts.

I have seen tight / burnt valves as well as loose valve guides run poor down low and full power up high so a leakdown test may help. Your description does sound more like a fuel issue though. I Hope so..
The codes in the dash will only be there if a sensor sends one, you need software to reset a tps. Ok.. I just looked at the TPS and looks like is not the factory one, it has a small bike drawing on it, not the Magnetti-Marelli stamp
I have had numerous TPS failures and not once have they sent any code.

" It can be measured in the rear of the TPS sensor plug right? "
Yes I do not remember which wires look at Brad blacks website to see if his write up lists them.
No worries may be I can found in the www.
[/QUOTE]

THANKS A LOT FOR THE TIME MAN!

 

[miguel0227]

@ducvet
Here is a video, of the fail...
2004 MS 1000DS STALL FAILURE