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Discussion Starter #1
My stock ST2 clutch basket was getting quite worn, and so I installed a really cool looking anodized EVR 48 tooth clutch basket, EVR organic clutch disks, EVR pressure plate, and EVR springs and caps. All new stuff. I used a Duca-bike open cover, and the thing looks great. But it doesn't work so good.

The clutch just barely disengages with the level pulled all the way to the grip. Changing gears requires a massive kick of the lever and it comes with a heavy clunk because the clutch is not fully disengaged. It is impossible to move the shift lever when the engine is running, the clutch is disengaged, and the bike is sitting still. Forget about shifting into neutral at a stop light. It seems that maybe the clutch pack is somewhat thicker than stock.

To alleviate this issue I put a couple of .5mm think washers in the clutch slave cylinder effectively lengthening the clutch push rod, and this improved the situation somewhat, but it is still way too hard to shift, and I still can't shift when the bike is not moving. I will need to add a couple of more washers before I get the thing back to "normal".

I am currently checking with the seller as to why I'm having this issue, and they are checking with EVR. In the mean time, I'm wondering if there is any adverse issue with stacking washers inside the clutch slave cylinder. Also, the first two plates that go into the clutch basket are 2mm thick steel plates with no friction plates between them. Is one of these plates simply a spacer? If so, I could remove one of the 2mm plates, and I would be at the same point as having added four .5mm thick washers to the slave cylinder. Is it safe to remove one of these plates? Has anyone had a similar experience with aftermarket clutch parts?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Did you check the clutch stack height?
 

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Leave the clutch plate stack alone. The height of the stack establishes the preload in the springs that prevents clutch slippage.

Your problem is that the clutch slave piston doesn't move a sufficient distance to allow plates to separate to disengage the clutch. If you have a larger (greater than 28 mm) diameter aftermarket slave, that'll make things worse.

Bleed the air from the system high point that will assure that the slave moves the pushrod the necessary distance to disengage the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Did you check the clutch stack height?
I did not think to check the stack height. I guess assumed that I was buying a replacement part for a specific bike and that it would fit the same as the OEM part, which is, I know, a dangerous assumption. I can remove the stack and measure it, and I can measure the old stack, but I'm not sure what that gets me.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Bleed the air from the system high point that will assure that the slave moves the pushrod the necessary distance to disengage the clutch.
I'm using the stock clutch slave cylinder, and I had replaced the clutch fluid and bled the thing about a 1000 miles back. I will do it again to see if it helps, but the old clutch, which had plates that were not very worn worked fine, and so I don't see how air would have gotten into the system while I was changing the clutch.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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I don't see how air would have gotten into the system while I was changing the clutch.
The air was already in the system — but for some reason the disengagement problem is more severe/noticeable with new clutch plate friction material until it wears a little.
 

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Go to the HOW area and search for my "No Bleed Method"
 

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Check the depth of the plug which is pressed into the pressure plate. It could very well be deeper than the stock pressure plate plug. If so swap it out. Don't pull the pushrod out the clutch side with the pressure plate, hard on the oil seal in engine case.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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