My stock ST2 clutch basket was getting quite worn, and so I installed a really cool looking anodized EVR 48 tooth clutch basket, EVR organic clutch disks, EVR pressure plate, and EVR springs and caps. All new stuff. I used a Duca-bike open cover, and the thing looks great. But it doesn't work so good.
The clutch just barely disengages with the level pulled all the way to the grip. Changing gears requires a massive kick of the lever and it comes with a heavy clunk because the clutch is not fully disengaged. It is impossible to move the shift lever when the engine is running, the clutch is disengaged, and the bike is sitting still. Forget about shifting into neutral at a stop light. It seems that maybe the clutch pack is somewhat thicker than stock.
To alleviate this issue I put a couple of .5mm think washers in the clutch slave cylinder effectively lengthening the clutch push rod, and this improved the situation somewhat, but it is still way too hard to shift, and I still can't shift when the bike is not moving. I will need to add a couple of more washers before I get the thing back to "normal".
I am currently checking with the seller as to why I'm having this issue, and they are checking with EVR. In the mean time, I'm wondering if there is any adverse issue with stacking washers inside the clutch slave cylinder. Also, the first two plates that go into the clutch basket are 2mm thick steel plates with no friction plates between them. Is one of these plates simply a spacer? If so, I could remove one of the 2mm plates, and I would be at the same point as having added four .5mm thick washers to the slave cylinder. Is it safe to remove one of these plates? Has anyone had a similar experience with aftermarket clutch parts?
Thanks,
Mike
The clutch just barely disengages with the level pulled all the way to the grip. Changing gears requires a massive kick of the lever and it comes with a heavy clunk because the clutch is not fully disengaged. It is impossible to move the shift lever when the engine is running, the clutch is disengaged, and the bike is sitting still. Forget about shifting into neutral at a stop light. It seems that maybe the clutch pack is somewhat thicker than stock.
To alleviate this issue I put a couple of .5mm think washers in the clutch slave cylinder effectively lengthening the clutch push rod, and this improved the situation somewhat, but it is still way too hard to shift, and I still can't shift when the bike is not moving. I will need to add a couple of more washers before I get the thing back to "normal".
I am currently checking with the seller as to why I'm having this issue, and they are checking with EVR. In the mean time, I'm wondering if there is any adverse issue with stacking washers inside the clutch slave cylinder. Also, the first two plates that go into the clutch basket are 2mm thick steel plates with no friction plates between them. Is one of these plates simply a spacer? If so, I could remove one of the 2mm plates, and I would be at the same point as having added four .5mm thick washers to the slave cylinder. Is it safe to remove one of these plates? Has anyone had a similar experience with aftermarket clutch parts?
Thanks,
Mike