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Discussion Starter #1
so, i get all done with the first valve/belt job on my st4s. changed the oil, changed coolant (sort of), plugs, gaskets, and so on. go to start up bike and dash lights up and all i get is a loud ticking noise from the injection relay. tried to swap out the fan relay and that prevented anything from happening. guess ill be picking up a multimeter tomorrow. my question is where do i start? if the relay is bad i must have a problem some where ehh?

on another note, my coolant has not "circulated" into the system. the workshop manual said to fill the overfill tank and allow it to backfill the system vs. filling the radiator itself. i let it sit overnight and nothing. guessing its airlocked and thought turning the bike on would push it thru. one problem at a time i guess....

thanks for looking, all advice is welcomed.
 

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It would be a big coincidence if a relay went bad just at that time. More than likely it's a bad connection. I would check everything, especially the started relay connection (small white plug behind battery).

As far as the coolant, you need the thermostat to open up by getting it hot, sitting overnight won't accomplish that.
 

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My ST3 is doing the same thing - injection relay continuously clicking when the key is turned on. Rowl Duc, did you ever sort this problem out on your bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it's funny to see my old post floating around here.

here's the rundown. basically a week after my last post i found out i had cancer, went through surgery and then chemo for six months. it's only recently that i have been able to get the bike back together and out on it.

i cleared up the electrical problems-but the radiator is still vexing me, thought i had all the air bubbles out but a twenty minute ride yesterday and i shot up to 202 as soon as I got off the highway.

such is life and now to the garage to pull off the fairings (monster next time) and start to mess with the coolant again.

sorry bout the split threads. poor etiquette. i know. so good to be back!
 

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Forget the bike for a while. How are YOU doing?! That's what counts.
 

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It is a connection problem, not necessarily at the relay. When the relay contacts, the circuit that it services draw additional current causing the voltage to drop because of the bad connection. This causes the relay to drop out so the voltage rises again, so the relay clicks in again, then out again ad infinitum...

Regarding the coolant; ignore the bit about the header tank. Put the bike on the side stand and fill the radiator directly via the filler neck. When the coolant reaches the top, "burp" the hoses until no more air comes out and top up as necessary. Start the bike and run it until the thermostat opens. Then top up the radiator, fit the cap, then fill the header tank to the max line. Works every time.
 

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One more "undocumented" feature that I found are bleed bolts on the side of the heads. I you "think like a bubble", you'll find yourself hopelessly stuck in the vert. cylinder's water cavities. Look at that fitting on the LH side of the heads. There's an extra bolt on it with a copper crush washer. If you loosen/remove it while filling the RADIATOR on the SIDE STAND (this makes the Rad. cap the highest point...), the air will relieve out of this hole, until coolant starts to flow out of it. This works so well, that burping the hoses is really not needed.

I had to show the wrench at the dealership these bleed bolts, and forced him to remove the one on the vert. cyl. to prove my point. He had no knowledge of these things even exsisting... (this was after my ST2 was overheating in their parking lot IN FEBRUARY--like 15 F air temp!!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm better now. Surgery in July, six months of chemo, some bloodclots in the lungs, and a couple of weeks of rest have left me jonsing to get back on the bike. I pulled the fairings this morning. Ran it to 170 burped the hoses. Should I be doing this with the radiator cap off? Can I run the bike with out it? I know these might be stupid questions, but I'm really stuck.

Many thanks, this is a fantastic community
 

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Mr Leakered
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Very good to hear. The bike obsession is hard to break, as you demonstrated.

Nope, keep the rad cap on. Otherwise the resevoir will empty on you. Once the system cools, the vacuum will draw coolant in from the resevoir.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
think that worked. noticed the coolant went down a little bit over night. ran it till the fan came on (215) and it kept it right there. is it acceptable to be in the 200's in city riding? i never watched the temp before but it never seemed to shoot up like this. guess im just worried i screwed something up. thanks
 

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One more "undocumented" feature that I found are bleed bolts on the side of the heads. If you "think like a bubble", you'll find yourself hopelessly stuck in the vert. cylinder's water cavities. Look at that fitting on the LH side of the heads. There's an extra bolt on it with a copper crush washer. If you loosen/remove it while filling the RADIATOR on the SIDE STAND (this makes the Rad. cap the highest point...), the air will relieve out of this hole, until coolant starts to flow out of it. This works so well, that burping the hoses is really not needed.
Stick, I couldn't find this bleed bolt on my 2003 ST4s. Check on yours and see if it's there on the 4v models. I'll be filling my system soon and would be delighted not to have to fiddle with the burping process.

Ron
 

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Stick, I couldn't find this bleed bolt on my 2003 ST4s. Check on yours and see if it's there on the 4v models. I'll be filling my system soon and would be delighted not to have to fiddle with the burping process.

Ron
Yup, I just went out there to tripple check. Look at the hose running to the side of the jug. There's a flange there with 3 bolts that hold the flange to the jug. Down at about the 4:30 o'clock position, there's an extra bolt that goes in on the side of this flange. That's the little bleeder bolt. Note the copper crush washer. It has no other function in life...
 

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Got it! Thanks, Stick! I'm sure it'll help immensely in my coolant refill.

Ron
 
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