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I can't believe i'm saying this but I've given up, lol....

After much soul-searching and hand-wringing, I've decided to purchase the bypass plug on ebay. I figure I can deal with it until Ducati comes up with a permanent fix....otherwise I'm going to be super irritated every 12-15 months, rather than a slow trickle of low-level irritation which will be easier to manage/get used to.

They are up to $27 now, must be a popular item? Mine gets here next week.....
My wife's multi just got the sensor bug yesterday, and I ordered one of those bypass for $27 too and stop dealing with these sensor BS once and for all, it's a rabbit hole.....
 

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Did I miss a write up (with pics) of your fix? Sure would help a lot of guys here...
Use this video as a guide to get all the way to removing the fuel tank:

I say a "guide" because it is extremely incomplete ( I ripped him in the comments for it). There are 4 extra fairing bolts, 2 tank bolts, a small box with a plug that needs to be disconnected on the left side of the black plastic tank that's held on with a strange double male velcro, and a fuel line that needs to be removed. He also didn't mention the pain in the ass it is to get the rear side fairings off. There are two hidden bolts that the rear side fairing slips over. I saw someone in anther video unscrewing them, but I honestly don't know how they did it. I just used a little careful force in all the right places and got them off without doing that. You'll be cussing the engineers on this one.

This knobhead of a "how-to video maker" didn't mention any of it.

Additionally, the red plastic tank cover is installed/removed without removing the gas cap (don't remove the gascap like this knobhead did). It seems to take a lot more strength than should be necessary to remove it, just go slow. I actually removed the gas cap, but I couldn't get it back in the tank cover. I installed the gas cap on the bike, and then pushed the tank cover on to the gas cap to reinstall it. That's how I figured out the proper procedure for that. It's the only way I could get it on, and therefore, it must be the proper way to take it off, although it really didn't seem like it at the time. The red tank cover was on there pretty good!

Supposedly you can remove the fuel line by just pushing down and pulling up (someone mentioned it in another video, although they didn't show them doing it). That wasn't m experience. I used some small picks that I have to push the tabs down and get the fuel line out (you'll kind of understand when you get to this point). Just be careful. It seems fragile. To reinsert the fuel line, just push it in. Easy peasy.

The sensor has a paint marking on the cap that you screw off, and the tank, so torqueing it back on is pretty self explanitory. Just line up the marks. If your putting it on and you can't see the mark, thread it back off and try again.

At this point, you call your wife and have her bring you a beer in the garage. She will see the galactic mess you've made and think you are in deep shit! When you get the new sensor installed and everything works perfectly, she will think you are a wizard for at least the next 2 months. (y)

The rest is self explanetory if you are the slightest bit mechancally inclined.

At that point I would just install the new $130 sensor, and then keep the old one for dissecting later when/if you have the time. Here are the videos I found for refurbishing the sensor:

and to fix it:

The epoxy I used to fill the voids I drilled out: Amazon.com: Devcon 31345 2 Ton Clear Epoxy, 25 ml: Toys & Games

You can find it at ace hardware and walmart I think.
I put a small heater close to it to get it to cure faster/better, and by the next morning it was hard as a rock.

I hope I didn't scare anybody away from doing this. It's really quite easy, especially if you are just swapping the bad sensor for a new one.
 

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People are still having problems with this, even with the replacements? This was a know issue on the '14 that I just bought. The seller had a bypass that made it always show half full and he just worked with the odometer. I thought by now this had been sorted and I planned to get it replaced. Maybe I will continue to use the odometer...
 

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People are still having problems with this, even with the replacements? This was a know issue on the '14 that I just bought. The seller had a bypass that made it always show half full and he just worked with the odometer. I thought by now this had been sorted and I planned to get it replaced. Maybe I will continue to use the odometer...
I'm tried several fixes from the dealer with replacements to doing my own resolder like the above and just short of suing. I ended using the bypass connector from eBay for my Multi and the Diavel. There is no fix and I do not see ducati owning up to fix this problem across the board. We need to live with it and do the odometer thingy.
No way out, Enrico
 

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I'm tried several fixes from the dealer with replacements to doing my own resolder like the above and just short of suing. I ended using the bypass connector from eBay for my Multi and the Diavel. There is no fix and I do not see ducati owning up to fix this problem across the board. We need to live with it and do the odometer thingy.
No way out, Enrico
I have taken apart 3 D sensors. The issue with all was the wiring connector to the board. This is encapsulated in the epoxy plug. It is a poor design with one sided connector and no solder just a push on. I repaired this by adding two small wires soldered on the board and brought out and soldered to the out put wires. Paralleling the faulty connection. I found nothing wrong with the boards or switches or floats. YMMV
Cheers
 

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I have taken apart 3 D sensors. The issue with all was the wiring connector to the board. This is encapsulated in the epoxy plug. It is a poor design with one sided connector and no solder just a push on.
That sounds like any sort of bending or movement of that part of the sensor would cause the unit to break. Do you think that's the case?
 

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That sounds like any sort of bending or movement of that part of the sensor would cause the unit to break. Do you think that's the case?
It is just a poor design in that application. The design is for easy fast assembly. It is a 5vdc current sensing circuit and ANY added resistance just confuses the receiver / a to d converter. Most "electronic" problems are connection problems.
Cheers
 

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It is just a poor design in that application. The design is for easy fast assembly. It is a 5vdc current sensing circuit and ANY added resistance just confuses the receiver / a to d converter. Most "electronic" problems are connection problems.
Cheers
So, we just need to dig out the epoxy from the cap and fix the connection? Do you think it would be possible to make a path to the plug then flux and solder the the existing plugs to the terminals?

Thanks for contribution to this cause!
t_bare
 

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Just installed the F version today on my '17. Took just over 2 hrs. without rushing. You do not need to remove the tank from the bike. Just remove the bolts holding it down and prop it up so you can clear the sensor. Removing and installing the plastic takes all time, not the sensor.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Just installed the F version today on my '17. Took just over 2 hrs. without rushing. You do not need to remove the tank from the bike. Just remove the bolts holding it down and prop it up so you can clear the sensor. Removing and installing the plastic takes all time, not the sensor.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I'm guessing your fuel tank was bone dry?
 

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Yep, siphoned it down to the sump. Very little left at the sensor.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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