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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
just finished installing new EBC Double-H brake pads on the hypertard (mine is the standard flavor hypertard, with the non-mono block front calipers).

with a little under 15k miles on the clock, the stock pads still had a little more meat in them, but decided to swap them out today with the new EBC Double-H pads. ( http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/sintered_brake_pads/double_h_superbike_pads/index.shtml )

the fronts were a snap ... did not even need to remove the calipers from the mounts ... just pull the clips on the two brake pins per caliper, remove the pins, remove the pad spacer/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for the new/thicker pads, install the new pads, install the pins and spacer/keeper, install the clips, check brake fluid level.


the rear pads were a little more problematic ... needed to remove the rear wheel, remove the two bolts that secure the caliper, remove the pin clip, slide the pin out, remove the pin spring/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for new/thicker pads, install the pin, install the pin spring/keeper, install the pin clip, bolt the caliper back on the mount, install the rear wheel, check the brake fluid level.

will take her out to bed in the new pads later today.

ciao,
johnc
 

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just finished installing new EBC Double-H brake pads on the hypertard (mine is the standard flavor hypertard, with the non-mono block front calipers).

with a little under 15k miles on the clock, the stock pads still had a little more meat in them, but decided to swap them out today with the new EBC Double-H pads. ( http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/sintered_brake_pads/double_h_superbike_pads/index.shtml )

the fronts were a snap ... did not even need to remove the calipers from the mounts ... just pull the clips on the two brake pins per caliper, remove the pins, remove the pad spacer/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for the new/thicker pads, install the new pads, install the pins and spacer/keeper, install the clips, check brake fluid level.


the rear pads were a little more problematic ... needed to remove the rear wheel, remove the two bolts that secure the caliper, remove the pin clip, slide the pin out, remove the pin spring/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for new/thicker pads, install the pin, install the pin spring/keeper, install the pin clip, bolt the caliper back on the mount, install the rear wheel, check the brake fluid level.

will take her out to bed in the new pads later today.

ciao,
johnc
John, you can change the pads without removing the rear wheel, just remove the caliper bolts, let it hang down, & remove the pads, I'v done it 5 times already. Aloha Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
John, you can change the pads without removing the rear wheel, just remove the caliper bolts, let it hang down, & remove the pads, I'v done it 5 times already. Aloha Alex
well ... aren't you special!!!!

i, on the other hand, am NOT so special ... the universal joints i have for the socket wrenches are too large, and will not allow me to get around the sprocket to get a clean shot at the two allen headed bolts holding the caliper on ... so, i had to remove the rear wheel. no biggie, as with air gun, only takes half a minute to remove ... and about 1 minute to re-install with torque wrench. besides ... i get to commune with my hypertard during these times :rolleyes:
 

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just finished installing new EBC Double-H brake pads on the hypertard (mine is the standard flavor hypertard, with the non-mono block front calipers).

with a little under 15k miles on the clock, the stock pads still had a little more meat in them, but decided to swap them out today with the new EBC Double-H pads. ( http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/sintered_brake_pads/double_h_superbike_pads/index.shtml )

the fronts were a snap ... did not even need to remove the calipers from the mounts ... just pull the clips on the two brake pins per caliper, remove the pins, remove the pad spacer/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for the new/thicker pads, install the new pads, install the pins and spacer/keeper, install the clips, check brake fluid level.


the rear pads were a little more problematic ... needed to remove the rear wheel, remove the two bolts that secure the caliper, remove the pin clip, slide the pin out, remove the pin spring/keeper, remove the old pads, gently pry the pistons apart to make room for new/thicker pads, install the pin, install the pin spring/keeper, install the pin clip, bolt the caliper back on the mount, install the rear wheel, check the brake fluid level.

will take her out to bed in the new pads later today.

ciao,
johnc
i was told to take a file to the corners of the new braking surface on the pads and take the lip off. they brake in quicker and better like this. just wang a file around the edges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i was told to take a file to the corners of the new braking surface on the pads and take the lip off. they brake in quicker and better like this. just wang a file around the edges.
ciao pedro -

yup ... i did not mention this in my steps, so good catch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
they are way better than stock. stick a RCS19 brembo master on and you'll be well impressed! :D
you sir, are a mind reader!!! :eek:

i have been contemplating new brembo masters for clutch and brake ... and the RCS masters are the shit (as the kids say, these days) :rolleyes:
 

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Have them but.......

you sir, are a mind reader!!! :eek:

i have been contemplating new brembo masters for clutch and brake ... and the RCS masters are the shit (as the kids say, these days) :rolleyes:
Well Gentlemen, I have the Brembo RCS masters for the clutch & brake, the only reason I have them is I got both of them for a great deal from Marco (Da_Bull) when he was selling his bike.

The Brembo masters are really cool and well made with high precision, with TONS of adjustment, there is a fluid volume adjustment for both, as well as in/out lever adjustment, and up/down lever pivot, and last but not least has a high "bling" factor :D.
They do feel better then stock, the clutch being a tad "softer" & the front brake with a more solid feel when you pull the lever. I had a chance to try them on the track, and they worked well, but did I go faster? probably not......the front brake still started to over heat and the lever got soft & closer to the bars, just like the stock one did, but the stopping power was always there. I think I'll try different pads & rotors next.

The only problem I had was a mounting problem with the reservoir brackets, there are none, so I had to make special sleaves for the lever pivot so I could mount the reservoir brackets to the top of the masters.

So what do I think? they work fine, are they worth the money? for me, probably not, I would not buy them if I had to pay retail for them, but for what I paid for them, their OK, :) Aloha Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
great write-up alex ... good to hear your observations/opinions on these master cylinders from brembo.

Well Gentlemen, I have the Brembo RCS masters for the clutch & brake, the only reason I have them is I got both of them for a great deal from Marco (Da_Bull) when he was selling his bike.

The Brembo masters are really cool and well made with high precision, with TONS of adjustment, there is a fluid volume adjustment for both, as well as in/out lever adjustment, and up/down lever pivot, and last but not least has a high "bling" factor :D.
They do feel better then stock, the clutch being a tad "softer" & the front brake with a more solid feel when you pull the lever. I had a chance to try them on the track, and they worked well, but did I go faster? probably not......the front brake still started to over heat and the lever got soft & closer to the bars, just like the stock one did, but the stopping power was always there. I think I'll try different pads & rotors next.

The only problem I had was a mounting problem with the reservoir brackets, there are none, so I had to make special sleaves for the lever pivot so I could mount the reservoir brackets to the top of the masters.

So what do I think? they work fine, are they worth the money? for me, probably not, I would not buy them if I had to pay retail for them, but for what I paid for them, their OK, :) Aloha Alex
 

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......the front brake still started to over heat and the lever got soft & closer to the bars, just like the stock one did, but the stopping power was always there. I think I'll try different pads & rotors next.
Did you flush the old fluid when swapped master cylinders? What brake fluid are you using, and you sure you got all the air out of the system? That would be the first change I would make followed by better pads. What worked for me in my track bikes was Motul RBF 600, DOT Rating 4, really high dry boiling point, 594°F, wet boiling point 421°F.
 

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Did you flush the old fluid when swapped master cylinders? What brake fluid are you using, and you sure you got all the air out of the system? That would be the first change I would make followed by better pads. What worked for me in my track bikes was Motul RBF 600, DOT Rating 4, really high dry boiling point, 594°F, wet boiling point 421°F.
I flushed & bled the new master, & I am using the Motul RBF 600, DOT 4 Racing brake fluid with the 594*F dry boiling point, at $18.00 per :eek: pint!
but the brake lever still goes soft when really hard on the front brakes like at a track day, but don't get me wrong the braking power is still STRONG, just a little spongy when really hot. :cool: Aloha Alex
 

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It is pricey...I use cheaper fluid to flush the system first. I bring some of the cheaper stuff to the track just for the people never bring their own and want "borrow" some...

I had the same lever coming to the bar, soft feel and the fluid with a good bleed fixed it on my Aprilia RSV1000 and a few Ducs. Sometimes air gets trapped up by the master banjo. The spongy lever would drive me crazy at the track. Good luck with it.
 

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I installed the EBC Double-H brake pads on my Harley Street Rod and ended up with a result that felt like warped brake rotors which got worse the longer I used them. I went back to standard pads and the problem disappeared. I used up the EBC pads on my rear disc where the problem was not so evident.

I am now very cautious about the type of pads I use on the bikes in my stable.
 
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