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Discussion Starter #1
I have finally managed to get another bike after the lo9ck down. Purchased this last year and had to wait until this week before it turned up. A very low mileage import from the UK, this bike has been in storage for the past 15 or so years with minimal running time. It is pretty original with the exception of the modified airbox lid and the addition of a full set of Goodridge braided hoses. It has a couple of things that need attention and a tidy up but all in all not a bad find.

987978


It was hosing down outside but once in doors a quick look over it and I am pretty happy with it so far.

987979


The previous owner had it all apart and there are a couple of things missing that he is going to send at a latter date. Started to pull things off it to clean up and there are a couple of bolts that have the internal portion of the cap screw corroded. Tig welder had to be used to attach an old torq drive socket to the dreaded side stand mounting bolts. Managed to get one out with out a problem but there was no way the other one was going to come out without a fight.
987980


Snapped the first attempt off so did the other side before coming back and getting the other one out. Pain in the arse design -bad Ducati, bad Ducati..

987981


Had the same problem with the last bolt for the discs as well. Carefully welded an old Allen key into position . It came out easy after that.

987982


Out it came.

987983


Noticed an excessive build up of road grime on the back of the calipers and staining on the backs of the fork legs. Pushed down on the forks while moving it and it felt funny. When I drained the forks as I pulled them apart and there was very little oil left in the forks. Staining on the lower side of the fork seals was the give away that they needed replacing and the fork oil replaced. Forks are other wise in good condition though there is a bit of wear caused by the braided lines rubbing on the inside of the leg.

987984



These are been replaced with....,.

987985


...a set of these.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I have managed to get a bit more done on the 750 with the removal and replacement of the parts associated with the cam belts. The belts had started to break down on the back of them and with the bike sitting in one spot it had developed a couple of soft spots where the tensioners had been pressing in the back of the belt. Also found large deposits of rubber and grime build up on all the rollers. To make matters worse the idler bearing mount for the horizontal belt was corroded into the barrel. A lot of heat and a bit of kiwi ingenuity to get it out but a painstaking process. Also had the same issue with two of the tension pulley cap screws as well. Again they were corroded into the holes but a bit of heat and persistence, out they came. Everything came to an end when I tried to put the idler pullies back into the barrel - tight beyond belief. Tried to find the correct tap through local engineer suppliers but no - have to get them special from elsewhere. So moved onto other areas in need namely all the other parts of the bike that need to be regularly maintained. I have changed out as many of the fasteners that I can with stainless steel items. Managed to get it mostly back together before I ran out of a couple of fasteners and I need to source an oil seal that was installed from the factory around the wrong way.

I am waiting for the plated stuff to be finished and have replace the original tires that I was hoping not to but the set of tires that I have here are too big on the rear for this bike. Just waiting for a couple of parts to turn up from the previous owner so that I can get the bike to a legal stage. So while I wait for them to turn up I have drained the fuel that was in the tank and removed the fuel filters. Luck I did as one of the filters - a mesh pre-filter before the fuel pump was brittle and fell apart in my hand as I tried to remove it from the pump. The other filter was also not good. But the big find was one section of fuel hose that had expanded and gone soft. Luckily I have spares but will have to wait for the pre-filter as I cannot find the other one that I had.

In amongst some of the other things that I have sitting off to one side I have managed to find a carbon front guard that needs to be finished and a matching rear hugger. I will get them ready over the coming days as I wait for materials to turn up as I have a couple of other parts to make for others. I also found my Tuturo chain oiler that is going to be fitted to this bike - I will get another one for the other bike when I need it. Awesome design that works a treat and does not have the same issues that I have had with the Scott oilers in the past leaking when not been used. I use nothing more than Chainsaw bar and chain oil which is pretty sticky and has anti corrosion inhibitors in it. I have bought it in 20L packs in the past for when I do chainsaw work for firewood so I always have plenty on hand. I don't use any of the expensive oils that are labelled specifically for motorcycle chain use - truth be known they are the same oil as I can't tell the difference.

988934


Bucket full of phosphoric acid used to remove all the old crap plating of all the parts. Also have a bucket with some clean water to wash it all off to one side and dried before sending off to replated

988935


Cleaned out the sump tray before using it too for the clean up of parts - this time the front and rear axles. The white foam is the gasses given off from the removal of the plating..

988936


Was getting it all ready to do the cam belts when I struck the problem with the pullies. Had to wait over night for the correct taps to turn up for the threads to be cleaned up.

988937


New Battery in place - required the removal of a bit of the air box and the addition of some foam for the batteries to sit on. had to also lengthen the positive lead from the rectifier to make it all work.

988938


Marked the cut line for the shortened til section to suit the new low profile number plates.

988939


Checking the profile of the plate in the correct position.

988940


All done but I might do a bit of re profiling of the area around the indicators to lower the profile a bit. Will have a closer look when I get it back on its wheels.
988941


All the parts off to be vapour blasted.
 

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I received a set of the front rotors from Combi245 guys these things look great, lighter then stock and very nice,if you need rotors I would suggest getting these.
 

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Thank you for saving another one.

Others more knowledgeable on European models will have to chime in but in the USA the 97 monster was prone to cracking cases at the layshaft pulley area. In stock form and not thrashed I would expect a good long life. I personally have had 2 sets break on my track bike

#1 was stock other than a light flywheel, exhaust and jet kit. It lasted for a number of years including 10,000 miles street use and then about 10,000 miles of track use.

#2 was a motor (also 97) I bought that had been built up with high comp pistons , head work etc. No idea of time on it but it did not appear as it was raced so probably a street or trackday motor. I basically stripped it to the cases and rebuilt it as a stock motor again with the parts from my #1 motor just using the cases. This motor returned to the same setup (mostly stock) as #1 lasted me somewhere between 2000-3000 miles of track duty before it cracked in the same area.

It is not a kaboom type of crack but a crack that usually opens up a oil feed so you first notice the oil leak by the layshaft pulley, there is a oil passage visible in the casting and if the case cracks into this passage the cases leak. In stock form and not ridden hard they might never break but we saw a noticeable drop in case life on the 1997 cases from the early 1992-1993 750 cases. Early full on race bikes might go 4-5 years without a problem but when the brand new 97 cases were used on the same bike you would see 1/2-1 season of racing so something changed. Maybe it was just USA models but be aware if you start to get oil leaks on the right side of the engine and I would not consider trying to make more than stock power from one.

I switched to a set of 620 cases which are stronger for sure buy far less pretty and you really do not find many parts swap between the 2 generations of motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Couple of bits picked up and arrived today. Managed to get what I hope to be the last of the stainless fasteners to seal up the two remaining covers on the engine of the 750SS. A seal that was missing has also been located and fitted at a fraction of the cost of an original one from Ducati. I have made up a better main power feed from the relay to the starter motor which should help it to get a decent supply of power. Do not understand why Ducati had a reasonable sized wire to the relay then reduce the size from the relay to the started. A couple of random wires that seem to go nowhere have been found - one for the no charge warning light that I am having trouble finding the end of and a random red/black wire that had something in the end of it but the wire has been ripped out of it at some stage. Cannot find a correlating wire anywhere that matches up to either of these so will have to do a bit more investigating.

Once everything was back together it was a case of refilling the engine with oil and cranking it over for a bit to get oil through the system and create a bit of pressure. Was not paying attention and managed to overfill the engine by a large amount resulting in having to drain it out and start again. every sorted out and topped back up to the correct level and decided it was time to turn the motor over. Hit the start button and she turned over nicely. Once the oil light went out I refitted and torqued up the plugs, filled the fuel line with fuel and hit the start button again. Took a while for it to fire, initially on one cylinder and then the second cylinder fired. Put the chock on and hit the button again and it instantly fired into life for the first time. Sounded very smooth to start with so a bit more fuel added into the line to kep it going a couple of blips of the throttle and backed the choke off and it idled smoothly with a little bit of accelerator. Everything started to smoke a bit so turned the engine off. Al, the dust and grime on the pipes was getting burnt off. Left it for a couple of minutes and tried starting it again. Instantly fired into action and idled beautifully. Now just have to wait for the parts for the forks to arrive and I can get it down off the strops and out for a sneaky trip down the road to see how it runs on the road

988999


All the bits back from been replated - looked pretty awesome when it was all assembled back up.

989000


Making up a new cable from the solenoid to the starter - I do this to all the bikes that I work o as standard. 25mm/sq welding cable with 6/25 terminals soldered on with plumbers solder.

989001


Chain oiler all but set up for use.

989002


Fork lower legs all assembled. Use loctite to bond the leg to the stanchion before fitting the retainer bolt.


989003


Nothing like starting a bike up on on a cold night to remind the neighbours what life is all about.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A day of frustration trying to get a couple of things sorted on the 750 - Clutch problems. Tried for hours to get the line for the clutch bled properly but the piston in the side cover would not work at all. Tried heating the side cover up with the fluid in place but still the master cylinder did not want to build any pressure up. In final desperation i tried taking the line off the side cover and pumped the leaver until it decided to build a bit of pressure and then reattached it. Bit more coaxing and finally it started to have a bit of resistance on the leaver. More heat to the cover and all of a sudden it started to work - was like there was some sort of bypass in the line that closed off all of a sudden. Now it all works perfectly but I will check it tomorrow again.
Also received both mirrors and the indicators. Unfortunately the indicators probably won't make it back onto the bike and I will source some replacements. Mirrors are both in pretty good condition though I did receive some carbon fibre ones yesterday that are destined for another bike that would look pretty cool on this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Slow day with a bit of cleaning and sifting through a couple of parts that arrived for the bike from the previous owner. Wing mirrors in pretty good condition and the rear indicators one of them is has a bit of dame but I have devised a way to repair it. All the lenses came up better than new once they had been polished so that was a bit of a relief. Now moving onto the main fairings - I have decided to repaint them entirely so started to strip them down ready for sanding tomorrow. I should be able to get them all ready though I will have to wait for the decals to arrive for them I have also ordered a set for a couple of other bikes so I will at least have some spares to put on the new fairings that I will be making in the coming weeks.

989163


Genuine mileage - also have all the paper work from the original owner to back it up.

989164


Refilter that fell apart as I was removing it - I was sure than I had a replacement for this from one of my other bikes.

989165


Luimoto covered seat from my other bike is going to be fitted to this one. Also has the gel inserts in it for the pillion and the rider.

989166


Plain carbon mirrors that I picked up for another project.

989167


Smaller but have longer arms than the originals. The mirror also makes everything smaller and has a cool blue tinge to it.

989168


Missing a bit off the end. This will have all the paint completely removed from it and I will rebuild the end of it in the mould that I have for it.

989169

Mainfairings are in not to bad condition but the Lh one has a lot of scratches and a pretty ugly paint repair done to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fairings are all looking good after a bit of a clean up - not as bad as I first thought the would be once the paint touch up was removed. A couple of cracks around the holes for the welnuts along the bottom and the usual erosion from stones at the bottom as well. I have had to do a grind out on one side as there was a far amount of cracks around the hole . I have managed to grind most of it out on the inside and reinforce it will e glass. did manage to do a small infusion repair which I don't normally bother with as it is a bit fiddly but in this case I was able to do it with some off cuts of materials lying around. The plan from here is to leave it for a few days while I do the repair on the top fairing but I will add a bit of extra material along the bottom of both fairings on the inside to help prevent it splitting again.
I have pulled out the damaged mould that i have for it and can clamp the damaged fairing into the mould in about the right place and use it to form the replacement damaged part. Unfortunately the thickness of the paint on the fairing is preventing me sitting it perfectly into position but it will do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fairings are all looking good after a bit of a clean up - not as bad as I first thought the would be once the paint touch up was removed. A couple of cracks around the holes for the welnuts along the bottom and the usual erosion from stones at the bottom as well. I have had to do a grind out on one side as there was a far amount of cracks around the hole . I have managed to grind most of it out on the inside and reinforce it will e glass. did manage to do a small infusion repair which I don't normally bother with as it is a bit fiddly but in this case I was able to do it with some off cuts of materials lying around. The plan from here is to leave it for a few days while I do the repair on the top fairing but I will add a bit of extra material along the bottom of both fairings on the inside to help prevent it splitting again.
I have pulled out the damaged mould that i have for it and can clamp the damaged fairing into the mould in about the right place and use it to form the replacement damaged part. Unfortunately the thickness of the paint on the fairing is preventing me sitting it perfectly into position but it will do the trick.

989233


Vacuum chamber all ready for use again after I had the top plate zinc coated to protect it.

989234


Carefully removed all the pait to reveal a series of stress cracks. Used a bit of carbon dust and solvent to high light them.

989235


Tapered grind out on the inside as far as I could making sure that I taper the outer edges don to the center of the repair.

989236


Other side was nowhere near as bad as I first thought - i will get away with a spray touch up on this side.

989237


Repair in place and ready for the infusion process to start.

989238


Infusion under action - repair was easy to infuse. For these small repairs I use off cuts of soric core material as the manifold for the resing to flow through - works well.

989239


All done - now just have to allow it to cure.
 

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which seal was in backwards?

wrt eric's comments about cases cracking - i've never seen that happen, but no one raced the 750 in australia that i'm aware of - we just didn't have classes that they could compete in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The seal for the lay shaft that is in the Rh case that allows the bush to build up pressure for the oil pressure sender. It had been placed up side down and was almost impossible to remove. Luckily the engine has only done a low milage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Repairs to the main fairings done last night have all worked out perfect. I started to remove the deflectors off the main fairings last night and hit a snag . Three out of four of the retention screws had corroded onto the inserts that required me to drill them out. Bit of a hassle but they are all out and I have tidied up the holes ready for filling. I need to get some blind thread inserts to use to replace the original ones. Having a look at the deflectors I think I will make a mould of them at some stage. These ones are near perfect condition and it won't take much to make a mould of them.
Placing the top fairing into the old mould as best I could and clamped it into position. Using scraps of e glass and some vinylester resin I have managed to laminate up the first side of the repair. Once it has gone through its initial cure I will place it in the sun for the next couple of days to cure before taking it out and grinding back the other side ready for the outer layers of material to be laminated onto it. Idea is to have material on both side of the damaged area to sandwich it. Hopefully it will not come off again.
Another box of parts has turned up this time for the carbon fibre rear swing arm. I have had the final piece made up - the shock mount that was proving to be a hassle to design. All done and pretty happy with the result. Now just have to finish the design of the internal web for the laminate to be place over and get the first two made up.

989318


Small laminate stack all ready to be placed in for the missing bit.

989319


All laid up with the use of vinyl ester resin. Couple of layers of peel ply to help it stay in place and allow the excess air and resin to be worked out of the structure as best I could.

989320


Deflectors removed and the mounting holes cleaned up ready for filling and the new thread inserts to be bonded in place..
 

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The seal for the lay shaft that is in the Rh case that allows the bush to build up pressure for the oil pressure sender. It had been placed up side down and was almost impossible to remove. Luckily the engine has only done a low milage.
the seal that's meant to be in "the wrong way" at the rh end of the crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Managed to get the top fairing out of the mould and the repair cleaned up for the next phase of the repair. Other side has been ground down so that I can sandwich the end of the old fairing and lay up a couple of layers of glass on the other side. makes for a flexible and seamless repair if everything goes correctly.

989423


Out of the mould and the peel ply removed from the inside.

989424


Layers of glass wetted out with vinyl ester resin then a layer of peel ply and flow medium placed on the repair area to remove the excess resin - traditional wet layup vacuum bag set up. I reserve this method for small repairs or slow cure resin builds only.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Despite the crap cold wet wind weather I have managed to get the bulk of the minor filling done on a replacement rear hugger and a front guard for the 750SS. Parts arrived to put the front forks back together which required a bit of kiwi ingenuity to get it to work but they are all working as they should and I have managed to get the front end all back together and clamped up. Noticed a huge difference in the front forks as it is now fitted with heavier rated linear springs. Do the front end is all back together and the bike is off the supports. Rear indicators all work properly and it is now just the fairings that are holding everything up. Front guard has been all but completed to the stage that it is ready for painting (I have two of them to do). The rear huger has been completed to the same stage so it is really just the top fairings and the two sides to complete. Tomorrow will be to complete the main fairing strengthening along the bottom and do the final fairing/sanding of the top fairing.

989542


Making a template of the good side.

989543


Cut the top and bottom before marking out the end.

989544


Template marking of the end in the correct position.

989545


Cut and roughly shaped to match the other side. Little bit of filler mixed up and applied to finish it off.

989546


Springs and seal turned up - top spring is the new one. Slightly larger diameter material, linear rate spring and has a different pitch as well.

989547


Seals in and assembled up ready for the addition of oil.

989548


Oil in and ready for the retainer to be fitted to hold it all together. With the last springs it was a case of just pushing them down and I could get them off easy - not this time. Had to use a sash clamp to compress the spring enough that i could fit the retainers.

989549


Worked perfectly.

989550


Refitting the front wheel complete with new 3 piece Conti road attack 3 tires, my floating discs, sintered pads and all new stainless fasteners. Someone is getting a nice bike out of this.

989551


I did have problems getting one of the forks up through the top clamp but once the bike was back on its tires it moved easier to the correct height.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
With the bike now on its own two feet I had one last bit of maintenance to do and then a check over of all the critical fasteners making sure that they were tightened to the correct torque settings. Once I had fitted the front wheel and pumped the front brake to take up the slack in the system I noticed that it felt a bit on the spongy side of things. Since it was the only fluid that I had yet to replace it was a perfect opportunity to get it done and glad I did. The reservoir was filled with a orange gunk that was all over the inside surface and the colour of the oil was very dark looking more like slightly used engine oil rather than brake fluid. After removing it all, wiping and cleaning out the inside I filled the master cylinder and began the process of flushing everything out. A lot of badly discoloured crap came out of both sides but once all done the feel from the master cylinder was completely different, firm and very positive.

Now the tank has been open and vented for the past week and it was a case of getting in to remove a bit of flaky rust in a couple of spots. Got to all of it and with the help of a bit of abrasive paper I got the worst of it off without too much hassle. I am just waiting on a replacement pre-filter to turn up from overseas as there was going to be a 5 week wait from the NZ dealers for a replacement. Got the usual story, we don't get much call for these any more so don’t stock them. If I have my way I will be putting as many of the 91-97 Ducati's back on the road as possible from now on.

Top fairing has now been completed to a painting stage. Bit of sanding of the filler to the correct external shape and the lower portions of the main fairings have also had extra reinforcing added to them. Will do a bit of minor filling on the outside once this repair has had time to cure but the plan is to get the painting done this week weather depending. That happens and the bike is ready for the compliance stage.

I have a couple of things turning up early this week that is going to allow me to get back into the manufacture of carbon parts. I have pulled out the moulds, cleaned them up and got them all ready for the application of gelcoat on some of them. Rear huggers, front guards and the seat units are all in hot demand. I have a couple of back orders to fill first and then full on production until I run out of materials again.

989671


Sanded up guard sitting loosely on the front wheel. I have another one and the hugger ready for top coat tomorrow hopefully. Also fitted the top sceen just to make sure it fitted properelly around the repair area. Looks pretty good at this stage of the game.

989672


Resin infused the strengthening patches at the bottom of the main fairings.

989673


All the moulds getting a clean and put back together ready for more parts to be built.
 

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replacement pre-filters are very generic, sold by shape and size of the "cup" diameter. I matched mine up on the third try at an auto parts store. The airtech pump replacement alternative also comes with a suitable filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah I tried that RockAZ - Little bit hard in New Zealand and especially where I am located. I have one on the way anyway from Ducati shop in Australia and it should be here this week. Even went so far as to get a 25L container of fuel to put in it as soon as it arrives. Can't wait to get it all back on the road as I have found out it is not going to take as much to get it complied with the authorities as I had first thought.
 
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