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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

After many years of dreaming about a 90's 900ss I finally broke down and bought a gorgeous 1995 900ss/cr. I've read somewhere that 'every man should have a ducati sometime in his life' (probably on a ducati forum:)), and after riding this bike I think I get it. It's been quite an experience thus far.

Anyway, so I have a few newbie questions about maintenance and potential issues. Before i picked up the bike I did a few hour's worth of intense internet 'research', and the usual things came up, such as cracked frames (frame looks good) and galley plug issues. So here's my main question:

How big of an issue (does it ALWAYS happen?) is the crankshaft galley plug backing out? I will change the oil right away (not strictly necessary as it was just done by PO, but just want to see what comes out) to check for aluminum slivers etc. However, is this galley plug backing out something that will happen sooner or later (should I consider fixing this preventively?), or is it not that common?

Couple of basic bike questions:

* belts were replaced about 3 yrs and 5K ago, do they need replacement? (I've read somewhere they should be replaced every 2 years)

* when ignition is on I hear something that sounds like a fuel pump (which it isn't of course:)), is that normal? What is it?

* there doesn't appear to be a fuel petcock, what happens if you're running low on fuel? Is there a reserve?

* brake light does not work, haven't checked it out yet, any suggestions where to look for the problem (besides the bulb:)).

* clutch noise. I appreciate the dry clutch sound, but noticed that the clutch sound also changes when throttling up. Even with clutch disengaged (in gear, driving, no clutch) when low on throttle there seems to be clutch noise, when opening up the throttle (powering up), sound disappears and all is well. Normal?

* Neutral is hard to find, normal? tricks?

* Any recommendations for shop manual? I'll pick up a Haynes, but are there any (more detailed) resources either in book form or online?

And since without a pic some would claim it never happened :), so attached a crappy phone pic; will add better one soon.

Thanks for any input!
 

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Wow! Congrats on scoring such a great looking CR. It really is a great bike, and with the help of the forum, sorting out potential problems really isn't as bad as they initially seem. Here's some answers to some of your VERY good questions..

0. Shavings probably won't appear in the oil or filter itself. You have to remove the oil screen that resides behind a hex bolt and sending unit just underneath the right side cover oil fill hole. It's the same in almost all Ducatis. Basically it unscrews, and if the oil galley plug is backing out, that's where you will find aluminum shavings. Finding a couple initially is not a real concern, because you don't know when the last time someone removed and cleaned that screen. Do it now, and then remove it again during your next oil change. If shavings keep re-appearing, then it is a safe assumption that it's probably backing out and should be remedied asap, as complete engine oiling failure is the ultimate result. Lots of threads on replacement, proper new installation techniques, etc. Sucks because engine has to be split.

1. Yes belts should generally be changed at that interval, assuming normal usage. If you ride seldom, you can probably stretch that interval out ~50% assuming you inspect the belts regularly for fraying and stretching. Basically, I keep an eye on my belt tension and make it a point to buy a new set every 3 years. (I don't ride much, as living in Chicago only allows about 7 months of riding per year)

2. Yup.

3. Nope. But you have approximately 40 to 50 miles to fill up once the light comes on. Make sure it works, though.

4. If brake light fails to work with both front and rear levers, probably a bulb. If it works with one applied and not with the other, then problem is with that lever/pedal/switch. Check and get back to us.

5. Clutch noise changes depending on load on the plates, or when idling, or when clutch is engaged or disengaged. It's normal. Noise itself has no real bearing on operation or condition. If it's slipping, then there are low noise options to consider when replacing the assembly. If it's working well, enjoy telling people it's a diesel and watching their expressions.

6. Neutral can be tricky sometimes depending on your oil and whether or not your clutch lines are properly bled. Get the bike nice and hot. It should get easier to find neutral. Then maybe consider a different oil or take a look at your lines.

7. Haynes is actually a really great manual for the 2V, surprisingly.

Hope this helps!
 

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The book from LT Snyder is good too as a compliment to the Haines. (demotimes.com). Re the brake light- mine has bullet connectors under the seat that have come loose before. (not sure if all the bikes had these) At 3 years I would go ahead and replace the belts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the great input guys!

Just ordered both the haynes ('91-'96 models, not the newer one that included up to '05 models) and Snyder's book. Also will go ahead and replace the belts. I assume that is fairly easy to do for a DIY enthusiastic? (yes, worked on bikes before, just not ducs)

Punch, will do two subsequent oil changes with screen checking as you recommended. Makes sense. Also, what's the fuel-pump-like noise I hear when ignition is on? Just curious. Never heard a carbed bike make noises like that.

Thanks again!
 

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there is a fuel pump in the tank.

bob

Thanks for the great input guys!

Just ordered both the haynes ('91-'96 models, not the newer one that included up to '05 models) and Snyder's book. Also will go ahead and replace the belts. I assume that is fairly easy to do for a DIY enthusiastic? (yes, worked on bikes before, just not ducs)

Punch, will do two subsequent oil changes with screen checking as you recommended. Makes sense. Also, what's the fuel-pump-like noise I hear when ignition is on? Just curious. Never heard a carbed bike make noises like that.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, thanks, I had read that just before buying the bike. Very interesting indeed. In fact, before reading that I wasn't even aware that the CR and SP were actually slightly different bikes. I always assumed they just had different fairing and assumed all else would be the same. From reading that I realized that the SP is probably, technically, the better bike. But, although the SP is extremely pretty too, I just like the looks of the CR better (why hide that beautiful frame and engine under a cover?) and figured that I wouldn't be bothered by the technicalities as I don't expect I'll ever ride the bike to its limits on the road.
 

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Yes, thanks, I had read that just before buying the bike. Very interesting indeed. In fact, before reading that I wasn't even aware that the CR and SP were actually slightly different bikes. I always assumed they just had different fairing and assumed all else would be the same. From reading that I realized that the SP is probably, technically, the better bike. But, although the SP is extremely pretty too, I just like the looks of the CR better (why hide that beautiful frame and engine under a cover?) and figured that I wouldn't be bothered by the technicalities as I don't expect I'll ever ride the bike to its limits on the road.
I did the CR fairing on my '96 SP for weight reasons. But, ultimately there is something about the SP fairing I preferred. Wonderful bikes no matter what your aesthetic leanings.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Didn't realize they look this good in black...very sweet!

I did the CR fairing on my '96 SP for weight reasons. But, ultimately there is something about the SP fairing I preferred. Wonderful bikes no matter what your aesthetic leanings.
 

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It was pretty trick....41mm flatslides on Malossi short stacks, HC pistons, 944 kit, lightened flywheel by BCM, an a bunch of other stuff I can't remember. Ended up selling it thanks to a divorce. But, ended up with this SS1000DS.
 

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New owner... some questions

Congrats on a bike you will certainly enjoy riding and working with. Since I don't see no one mentioning it... there is a fuel petcock the threaded type under the tank! If you open the front latch of your gas tank and support the tank on its prop rod you should see it like the one on the attached picture. If you don't see/have one, you should get one (ebay for around ($30-$40)and you could also at this time place a small-fuel filter externally (before the petcock) in order to avoid the in-tank hassle at the time of replacement. ;)

Good Luck,

Vickon:abduct:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ah, yes, I saw that thing in the fuel line under the tank but didn't recognize it as a petcock...so does it have a reserve also?

About the fuel light, if it works, would it come on when you turn on ignition (on mine it does not)? Just want to make sure I'm not getting stranded waiting for the fuel light to turn on:).

Also, just to give me an idea what to expect in terms of miles, how many gallons does the tank hold and what can I expect for mpg's (if driven fairly conservatively)? At what level should the light come on?

Thanks!



Congrats on a bike you will certainly enjoy riding and working with. Since I don't see no one mentioning it... there is a fuel petcock the threaded type under the tank! If you open the front latch of your gas tank and support the tank on its prop rod you should see it like the one on the attached picture. If you don't see/have one, you should get one (ebay for around ($30-$40)and you could also at this time place a small-fuel filter externally (before the petcock) in order to avoid the in-tank hassle at the time of replacement. ;)

Good Luck,

Vickon:abduct:
 

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Hi All,

After many years of dreaming about a 90's 900ss I finally broke down and bought a gorgeous 1995 900ss/cr. I've read somewhere that 'every man should have a ducati sometime in his life' (probably on a ducati forum:)), and after riding this bike I think I get it. It's been quite an experience thus far.

Anyway, so I have a few newbie questions about maintenance and potential issues. Before i picked up the bike I did a few hour's worth of intense internet 'research', and the usual things came up, such as cracked frames (frame looks good) and galley plug issues. So here's my main question:

How big of an issue (does it ALWAYS happen?) is the crankshaft galley plug backing out? I will change the oil right away (not strictly necessary as it was just done by PO, but just want to see what comes out) to check for aluminum slivers etc. However, is this galley plug backing out something that will happen sooner or later (should I consider fixing this preventively?), or is it not that common?
My plug was found to have backed out without ANY shavings showing in the first two oil changes?! Only found when I had the motor out for new engine studs (another SS weakpoint...) and hi-comps - the plug is only veiwable if you take one of the barrels off? Mine is a '95 also, was talking to a '97 owner the weekend who just had his done.

Couple of basic bike questions:

* belts were replaced about 3 yrs and 5K ago, do they need replacement? (I've read somewhere they should be replaced every 2 years)
Mine are on their second year... they are more likely to break due to incorrect tension than age IMHO...

* when ignition is on I hear something that sounds like a fuel pump (which it isn't of course:)), is that normal? What is it?
The fuel pump noise is yup - the fuel pump :D

* there doesn't appear to be a fuel petcock, what happens if you're running low on fuel? Is there a reserve?
There is a low level light on the dash? These play up too, I chuck two gallons in the tank, this see's me for 100miles then I fill up again - reset the mileometer after filling

* brake light does not work, haven't checked it out yet, any suggestions where to look for the problem (besides the bulb:)).
If it doesnt work on both brakes then the bulb, front one probably the brake light switch which is USELESS. Fit a brake light banjo bolt to the master cylinder (M10 x 1.00mm)

* clutch noise. I appreciate the dry clutch sound, but noticed that the clutch sound also changes when throttling up. Even with clutch disengaged (in gear, driving, no clutch) when low on throttle there seems to be clutch noise, when opening up the throttle (powering up), sound disappears and all is well. Normal?
Some Duke clutches are VERY loud... fit an alloy basket for a quieter life, also remove two opposite clutch spring assemblies for a MUCH lighter clutch pull ;)

* Neutral is hard to find, normal? tricks?
Neutral? I remember that, lol try to get neutral whilst rolling to a halt - clicking down from 2nd always works

* Any recommendations for shop manual? I'll pick up a Haynes, but are there any (more detailed) resources either in book form or online?
Haynes is a good manual - some of my best knowledge has come from the boys on here tho!

And since without a pic some would claim it never happened :), so attached a crappy phone pic; will add better one soon.

Thanks for any input!
Good luck, young Jedi. :abduct:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks 470!

> Fit a brake light banjo bolt to the master cylinder (M10 x 1.00mm)

Do you mean like adding a brake switch on the master cylinder using a banjo bolt to replace the other switches? I like that idea. Sorry if I misunderstood your suggestion. Any recommendations for brand/type banjo bolt switch?

The galley plug is thus a real (and unpredictable) issue I gather. Thanks. However, if I don't find aluminum in the oil screen, I think I will go ahead and first enjoy this bike for a few thousand miles before taking the cylinders off though. Bad idea? Are there many horror stories about unexpected loss of oil pressure due to the plug actually working itself out (without any aluminum sliver warnings)?

Vickon, yes, the external fuel filter under the tank sounds like a good idea. Will do that.










Good luck, young Jedi. :abduct:
 

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The front brake light micro switch is adjustable. Slightly loosen the tiny screws holding it on, and move it a bit closer to, or farther from the brake lever housing. Tighten screws. Check if it works and repeat until you get it right. Not hard to do and (probably) no need to replace it.
I don't see how the oil galley plug could back out very far without grinding itself off (hence the aluminum shavings) on the left side crank main bearing.
 

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As far as the galley plug, my mechanic is a Supersport God, and he's seen every issue except for that one. He says he's heard of it, but out of the 100's of old school ducatis and SS's he's worked on, he's never seen it...
I figure I'll deal with it when I do a 944 kit...

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Spitfire, your post makes me happy:)!

Thanks guys, will do belts, oil and check out the brake light this weekend so that next week I can take her out for a two-day camping trip in the Sierra's, can't wait!

On a different note, on my SS the gas filler cap is slightly rotated counterclockwise. Is that the way it is supposed to be? The reason I ask is that I want to install a Tanklocker tank bag (Motorcycle Luggage from Luggage Locker) and just want to make sure that I don't end up with my tank sideways on the tank:). I used to have one of those tanklocker bags on my triumph speed triple and I really liked it (saves the paint job and easy on/off).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks punch! So far been unsuccessful getting the manual through that link though (it downloads something that is about 570Kb, says is a pdf, but won't open in acrobat reader).

Googling gave lots of links but so far all of them went nowhere.

Would you be willing to share it through dropbox, or something like that?
 
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