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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike is being pretty bitchy lately about finding neutral when stopped. I did a small bleed at the lever according to the FAQ but the issue seems to be returning after 3 or so rides.

Any idea on what to do next? Bleed the whole system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
A bit, yes.

So I usually keep the lever in the middle of its travel range. It's way easier to find neutral when the lever is fully extended, but I found the middle was a good compromise between my finger's reach to the lever and the ability to find neutral.

But now it's getting hard to find neutral even with the lever in the middle of the range position.

Should also note that I have the DP clutch slave.
 

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Your bike has neutral?

I didn't know my bike had a neutral.

Is this still the Ducati forum ???
:D What really happens is this. Alot of the time its not going to go into neutral without some struggle, which I dont want to do in front of others, like on Saturdays when there are alot of other bikers around, so I just hit the kill switch, and immediately it slips into neutral with no resistance, as if there was never any problem in the first place.

Yes, my lever is 1/2 way adjusted in, but the bike always starts right up when its in gear anyway, so I never really worry about it.
 

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I've found that giving the throttle a little blip and then selecting neutral just as the revs have returned to idle can help.

When I got my SP neutral was impossible to find. Then the dealer bled air out of the clutch and neutral was back again. In the ensuing 400 or so miles neutral has again become elusive. I guess this is a normal characteristic of Ducatis (my old S4RS was the same - actually, it was worse). The technique I mentioned first in this post seems to help.
 

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Neutral Position Problems

My 1998 748 does the same thing. I've bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder and it is still a chore to get neutral. Blipping throttle helps, coming to a stop with engine running and lever pulled in almost always requires hitting the kill switch to get into neutral. And before selecting the kill switch to kill, with the clutch lever in, it feels like the bikes still pulling ya even with the clutch lever pulled in.

Could there be a problem in the clutch? Like maybe the rings are expanding and becoming thicker and clutch not fully disengaging?

If the bikes not in neutral and clutch is pulled, it feels like the bikes still being propelled. Gets worse when hot. Like 180 and above.

Bike shifts up or down fine while moving, but once your stopped neutral is very hard to find.

I guess I'm hijacking the thread, but a similar problem.

My 2000 748 does not have this problem.

LATER, George in Delaware
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Bled the clutch. There were a few air bubbles that came out at the master cylinder and the fluid is was basically dark, DARK brown after just 4300 miles. Works a heck of a lot better now, though. Looks like I will need to bleed at shorter intervals than Ducati says.

EDIT--Ah f**k. I take the back. The bike wouldn't shift into neutral at all on my ride home from work and the engagement point was way too low. I'm thinking I have a leak somewhere in the system.
 

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Do you have the 1098 or 848?

I test rode an 848 today and it was the easiest bike I've ever had to find neutral on. So smooth.

Sorry to hear of your troubles.
 

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God I wish you were close to me otherwise I'd show you how to take care of it. It's actually pretty easy to do. I've got the 32mm NCR slave, and I'm still able to get into N pretty easy now. (At first it wasn't, but for some reason after properly bleeding it and after some time, it's gotten easier)

AMG, what kind of vacuum bleeder do you have? Or are you just using a rubber hose over the nipples? Or perhaps, just opening it up and letting the air dribble out over a rag?

Get yourself a proper Pneumatic Air bleeder. It works so amazingly well. Always bleed at the Master and the Slave, then Master again. In that order. Pump the lever over and over and hold the lever closed as you bleed it out each time. Pump the lever over and over again, holding the lever down, bleed slowly, and steadily again till the lever is just about to hit the bar at which time you close the bleeding valve.
Then you pump the hell out of the lever again. I mean hard pumps like you were doing a wrist workout.

Hold the lever down as far to the bar as posible, and then open the bleeder again, slowly and steadily. The lever will actuate to the bar, and stop the bleeding at the point where it's just going to hit the bar again.
Do this over and over from the master-slave-master. If you need to, wrap the lever down with some rubber bands over night, then bleed again IF you need to.

Remember, Master, Slave, then Master again.

Please do a write up of what it is exactly that you are doing. Every step from soup to nuts, so we know where you're going wrong. This isn't rocket science. It's one of the easiest things to do on the bike. I've not bled my F1098S in over a year and it's still good. Although, I am going to run a flush here soon for maintenance sake.

Make sure you use a good quality brake fluid too. Don't cheap out on your bike. Get the good shit, cuz even the good shit is only like $25.
 

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Also, when you go to bleed the clutch again, adjust the lever all the way out (as far reaching out and away from the bar as possible).

Once you have completed a good flush/bleeding, you can adjust the lever down to where you want it. For instance, mine is pretty damned close to the bar. ASV levers, NCR clutch slave, and everything else is stock from the S.

I hope you didn't store your fluid open in your garage in between changes. Brake fluid can pull moisture into the liquid, and thus when your fluid gets hot, it'll boil the H2O inside, and create air pockets all over again. Always store your brake fluid in several air tight bags. So that no air, or moisture gets in there. This is incredibly important.

One last tip:
Don't allow your fluid res. go lower than the minimum mark when bleeding the clutch. Otherwise, you'll have to start all over again. I hope you have enough sense to at least know this. Some people I guess still don't and wonder why they keep having problems. I seriously doubt your slave is shot. I just don't see how that could be, since you just got the bike last year.

Good luck, home-fry. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the tips!

I bled master then slave using the rubber hose over the nipples method (no vacuum bleeder yet and unfortunately I don't have a compressor). I set the lever all the way out before I bled and it was brand-new-from-the-store DOT4.

Bubbles came out at the master during the initial bleed, after that the fluid was solid (yet clearly very grungy). I then made sure to flush all the old fluid out of the system while making sure the reservoir didn't drop below the min line.

Like I said, it was working perfectly for a day afterwards but yesterday it was total poop again.

I'll give it a shot again tonight and use your more complete outline above.
 

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I bled master then slave
Remember, 1) Master 2) Slave 3) Then Master again. 1-2-3!! Perhaps tap the lines themselves with a couple of finger flicks, to loosen any bubbles "hugging" onto the insides of the line(s) themselves.

...using the rubber hose over the nipples method (no vacuum bleeder yet and unfortunately I don't have a compressor). I set the lever all the way out before I bled and it was brand-new-from-the-store DOT4.
I have this kit:
http://www.sears.com/mityvac-vacuum-brake-bleeder/p-00942276000P?prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12

But if you can't get that one, go to your local one-stop-auto-parts-shop, and get this one:
http://www.sears.com/mityvac-automotive-tune-up-and-brake-bleeding-kit/p-00947058000P?prdNo=2

Bubbles came out at the master during the initial bleed, after that the fluid was solid (yet clearly very grungy). I then made sure to flush all the old fluid out of the system while making sure the reservoir didn't drop below the min line.

Like I said, it was working perfectly for a day afterwards but yesterday it was total poop again.

I'll give it a shot again tonight and use your more complete outline above.
Sounds to me you got a major bubble out of there hiding in just the master and/or the slave. But there seems to have been bubbles somewhere in either the brake line, or elsewhere in the system that has since worked its way in the Master or the Slave- AGAIN. Which is why I highly recommend getting a proper bleeder. The tube over the bleeder nipple is a good temporary fix. Nothing wrong with temporary fixes. But they are just that..."Temporary fixes". Like anything in life, you have to be willing to spend the time/or sometimes money, in order to do it right. A vacuum bleeder will help immensely with getting trapped air out of the whole system.
:eek:

I learned my technique from an actual hydraulics mechanic. I’ve been using it for years now without issue. Rear brakes are another issue tho. Esp w/ Aprilia’s, since their point of bleed, is below the majority of the system. Air never can be sucked out with the pneumatic bleeder. For those bikes, it’s best to do a bench bleed and get the air to trickle “up” to the nipple. But I digress.

And remember, PUMP THAT LEVER OVER AND OVER AND OVER in between the opening of the bleeder nipple(s). HOLD the lever down all the while slowly opening the bleeder nipple, then close the valve once the lever comes close to hitting the bar. Close the valve, and the PUMP THAT LEVER LIKE A MAD MAN OVER AND OVER AND OVER AGAIN, before you hold it down to bleed again. Repeat this process at least a good 4 times. At least, for each point of the nipple.

I need to ask, did you ever loosen the bolt that holds the ends of the lines to the slave/Master? Those should never be touched. The crush washers are in there for a one time torque down. If you ever loosened them (on purpose, or accident), that's a big no-no and should be replaced, and then rebled all over again. Make sure those are always torqued to spec. They never really should come loose by themselves, but look to ensure that they are tight, and not loose.
 
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