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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My eyes have gone googly from all the googling I have been doing. Read so much info over the past 2 days that I'm starting to tie myself in knots. Time for some focused questions.

Symptoms:

- Slow starter motor when starter button first pushed (aren't they all?)
- Battery needs to be on a tender or it doesn't hold a charge.


Troubleshooting to date:

- Voltage across the terminal at idle in the 12.3V to 12.4V range.
- Voltage across the terminals tops out at around 12.6V no matter how high the revs.

- I have removed the battery and the stator, and have inspected the 3 yellow stator wires at the plug connector. Connector is definitely not bright white and shiny, but it is not burnt up and the wire connectors look in good shape.

- Multimeter set to Diode reads 001 across any combo of the 3 wires.
- Multimeter set to 200 ohms reads 1.1, but the 2 test leads touched to each other read 0.9, so the real reading would be 0.2.

Next I need to measure the voltage from the stator wires with the bike running. I will also post the R/R numbers in my next post.

Do the number above seem OK so far?


Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part 2 - R/R testing number.

Next up was the R/R pint testing using the multimeter set to diode mode.

My 996 has a 4 pin block in addition to the 3 pin stator wire block. 2 of the 4 wires appear to be +ve and the other 2 appear to be -ve. I tested both sets of +ve and -ve pins against each of the 3 stator wire pins.


Using the +ve lead on the MM

+ve pin 1 - 0, 0, 0 across the 3 stator pins

+ve pin 2 - 0, 0, 0

-ve pin 1 - 529, 511, 528 across the 3 stator pins

-ve pin 2 - 528, 509, 527


Using the -ve lead on the MM

+ve pin 1 - 528, 527, 526 across the 3 stator pins

+ve pin 2 - 528, 527, 525

-ve pin 1 - 0, 0, 757 across the 3 stator pins

-ve pin 2 - 0, 0, 757


Those high values in the final 2 tests seem to indicate a faulty R/R. Would you consider this just cause to buy a new R/R unit? What else should I be testing?


Dave.
 

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Those high values in the final 2 tests seem to indicate a faulty R/R. Would you consider this just cause to buy a new R/R unit? What else should I be testing?


Dave.
I buy another R/R. Personally, I'd get a MOSFET regulator and be done with it. I'd be willing to bet you never have another R/R issue for time you own the bike.....sean
 

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Your reg/rec may well be the issue but these simple steps can make a big difference with minimal effort and cost (if you haven't done them already):
1. Undo, properly clean up and grease the earth/ground connection on the top of the gear box.
2. Likewise the connections to the solenoid and starter motor.
3. Replace the battery and starter leads with real electrical cable, instead of the stock coloured pieces on non-conductive string. You can buy a kit for not much, have some made or make your own using good quality cables.
I have had my 12:4/1 comp 998 for 13 years (2nd battery) and my 2008 HM for 4 years (original battery) and they both start when asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I buy another R/R. Personally, I'd get a MOSFET regulator and be done with it. I'd be willing to bet you never have another R/R issue for time you own the bike.....sean
Sean!

Some cross-forum pollination taking place. I'm sure I'll bump into Ducatiman at some point soon. :)

As far as a MOSFET R/R, any idea of how the Shindengen brand compares to the one that Ricks Motorpsorts sell. The Rick Motorsports version looks like it keeps the stock connector blocks (if the picture on their website is accurate), where the Shindengen model needs some wiring mods from the R/R to the battery.


Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your reg/rec may well be the issue but these simple steps can make a big difference with minimal effort and cost (if you haven't done them already):
1. Undo, properly clean up and grease the earth/ground connection on the top of the gear box.
2. Likewise the connections to the solenoid and starter motor.
3. Replace the battery and starter leads with real electrical cable, instead of the stock coloured pieces on non-conductive string. You can buy a kit for not much, have some made or make your own using good quality cables.
I have had my 12:4/1 comp 998 for 13 years (2nd battery) and my 2008 HM for 4 years (original battery) and they both start when asked.
Thanks for the list. I am going to do all of these once I can identify and resolve my main issue. I see the wiring kits have 3 wires, which wires on the bike do they replace? I ask because I count 5 wires around the battery on my bike; 2 from the -ve terminal, 2 from the +ve terminal, and 1 from the solenoid to the starter motor.


Dave.
 

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the kits go battery pos to solenoid, solenoid to starter and engine case earth to battery neg.

well worth doing. well worth sorting any charging issues too. go through the list i posted. don't just replace the reg.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE:

Tests on the battery prove it to be alive. 12.6 volts at rest. Never falls below 10v when cranking.

Stator passes all tests. Resistance all all 3 wires. No open grounds. Plenty of voltage at idle and when revved.

Regulator Rectifier unit fails some of the diode tests, a replacement is required. I a going to fit an FH020 MOSFET unit and keep an eye on my charging system.



Bike is still slow cranking. Cleaned all of the wire connections (engine ground, battery -ve, starter post, solenoid, battery +ve). Most were in decent condition and barely noticeable improvement in cranking after the cleaning.

I'm going to do the wiring mod to replace the 3 wires with heavier duty cables. I may even splurge on a MotoBatt heavy duty battery with some serious CCA ability.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE Part II:

I just remembered that I own one of those portable power packs for any non-start emergencies. This thing packs quite a punch for a small unit.

I hooked it up to the 996 and hit the starter. The starter motor spins much quicker and much faster using the power pack, and the bike starts very quickly indeed. A mere fraction of a second of the lugging starter motor before it gets down to business.

So, even though my battery passed the voltage tests, it doesn't seem to have the oomph needed to really spin the starter motor as needed. New HD battery for certain now!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update: Part III

So, I concluded that I definitely have 2 separate issues; Non-charging electrical system and lazy starting system.

I found my R/R to be defective. I ordered a used SH020AA off a Honda from Ebay, and I also ordered a wiring kit from Roadster Cycle. I have yet to wire all of this up.

However, in the meantime I did make my own heavy duty wiring upgrade using 4ga welding wire and copper battery lugs. I also fitted a new MotoBatt replacement battery. I can claim success on eliminating the slow cranking with these upgrades. The starter now fires into life with zero delay, and the bike fires up in less than a second. Truly a revelation compared how it used to crank.

I'll post another update when I have wired in the replacement R/R....
 
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