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New one on me , where did that come from?

Do not forget to loctite the outer basket bolts ( as a oil sealant as well as to hold)and I would also red loctite the main hub nut , I use red 272 on both.
Cactus - Not sure, however it is a term that we Antipodeans can use in the public domain, where everyone really knows its meaning is fucked, shagged, rooted, beyond repair etc.

Loctite - noted thanks.
 

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Do not forget to loctite the outer basket bolts ( as a oil sealant as well as to hold)and I would also red loctite the main hub nut , I use red 272 on both.
Now I have to find 272 or equivalent/adequate specs in another brand that hopefully might be stocked in a bricks and mortar shop!

My "phone a friend" friend is away, so can't duck around the corner to "borrow" something suitable.

Reading the Lock 4 specs from the workshop manual it states
Flange sealant, resistant to high mechanical stress, solvents, high temp to 200 Deg C, pressures up to 350 Atm and fills gaps to 0.4mm
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Punch, you should definitely do what ever you feel comfortable with but I well say that the instructions that came with my Ducabike slipper clutch recommended Loctite 510 on the basket bolts. It's more of a sealant to keep oil from leaking past the bolts than for locking them. The stock stuff on my Monster was red but it was definitely not typical Red Loctite. It was very soft and easy to remove. There was enough that it was all over the backside of the basket forming a sort of gasket. I only had 243 so used a bunch of it.

The big center nut that gets torqued to 135 lb/ft had no Loctite on it from the factory and Ducabike didn't recommend using any. I didn't.

But I also plan to service this slipper clutch quite often. Again, you do whatever you feel safer with.
 

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i've got a feeling 272 got discontinued out here. loctite was pink, blue, red, green in terms of soft to strong. we used to use 270 (green) on the bmw pivot bearing pins.

i use the wurth stuff. green on stuff you don't want to come off, blue on the others.

i fitted a moto guzzi cylinder stud with the green once. it went tight before it went home, then broke the stud trying to remove it. happy days.

the 8 basket bolts are a thread sealant, not a locker as such. 510 is the std redish stuff. i don't use loctite on the centre nut. just never have.
 

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I've never seen the green stuff here in the US. Damn, and I thought the red we have here was permanent. The green sounds like the first time I ever saw Superglue. My friend said "here, put some of this on your fingers and press them together." :)
 

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Thanks for the info on the Loctite etc.
I have some 243 in the shed and some blue Loctite that is hiding somewhere, so unknown number, but will check.
Mates nearby will have something suitable if I can't find the blue.
 

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Thanks for the info on the Loctite etc.
I have some 243 in the shed and some blue Loctite that is hiding somewhere, so unknown number, but will check.
Mates nearby will have something suitable if I can't find the blue.
243 is blue. And it's oil resistant. :)
 

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243 is blue. And it's oil resistant. :)
Mmmm - guess I should have opened the bottle:surprise:

I think the other was a bearing lock from when I sorted my son's R15
 

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Honestly, it’s not that big a deal. Even if it leaks a little oil it’s not going to be a big deal.


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OK - next dumb question after stupidly ordering on 6 Cush rubbers, then getting the other six!

What is the best method for reassembling the hub, Cush rubbers and the drum?

Looks like it could be a PITA and possibly damage the Cush rubbers if not done correctly.

I am sure I know why there is damage to the drum and the culprit is me. I will explain later.
 

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put rubbers in hub. spray with silicon spray. jam steel centre in.
Thanks - I have some PBR rubber grease, so will use that.

What flavour jam? I think we only have raspberry at the moment>:)

So as the bishop said to the actress, it requires lubricant and a force fit?

I still often quote something you once posted in response to this question. "is it a left hand thread"

and your response was "only when it is fucked". I smile every time when I think about that.
 

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Being serious now, I will use the PBR rubber grease, then use a bolt/nut very large washer set to spread the load on the two parts.

A bit like a poor man's press.

I think I cobbled it together for the Lambretta project where I recall I needed to gently install rubber/steel engine mounts.
 

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it should just push together.
All good thanks.

Just used the PBR Lube. Made sure the Cush drives were lined up, placed the drum on the shed floor with a towel to protect it.

Aligned the hub to the Cush drive gaps then just stood on it and it eased down no problems.

I just knew a youtube belt it with a rubber mallet did not seem right, so hence the question and correct answer from Brad/the forum.

10pm here in Oz, so going resist finishing off the job as it will only take a few minutes and I know I will be tempted to start it and the neighbours etc. will not be pleased.

All pretty simple when you have the right tools and instructions.

Thanks all, I have learnt something new.
 

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I did not resist to a degree, so a little heads up on this, be patient and learn, as I have!

Brad's suggestion and my using my weight/gravity approach worked very well.

There is a small pin in the hub that "mates" to a hole in the bush.

Just make sure the hub is fully seated to allow the bush to locate into the the pin.

That is not in any manual, so just my observation.

If anyone says yeah I knew that, then this is a heads up for people like me that did not know, but became obvious before just torquing things up and causing expensive damage.

I even looked at the 1000DS manual I have with pretty coloured pictures and it did not tell/advise any of the things I have learnt here.
 

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Final dumb question hopefully.

The pressure plate kit came with the attached instructions and components.
Pressure plate, 6 x springs, 6 x caps and 12 x 2mm thick washers (shims?) with 20mm OD and ID to suit 5mm screw.

The instructions for the Monster, either C or D image says to use one or two shims as per the diagram.

No idea how this is supposed to work as the 20mm OD is less than the spring ID and would just rattle around inside the spring.

I cannot find anything so far on the internet about doing this.

I am inclined to just fit the springs and caps, no shims, unless I am missing something bleeding obvious.
 

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It’s pretty obvious they are intended to apply varying amounts of preload but it doesn’t make since they would be smaller than the springs.

Is the diameter of the springs the same in both ends?


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