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Thanks Ducvet and Psyopper.

Materials/hardness - understand all that.

Plates and baskets have solutions for both aluminium and steel.
The challenge seems to be to be able to source an new OEM/aftermarket steel hub.

Maybe I have to bite the bullet and switch to alloy throughout for future availability of replacements/spares.
 

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Hey Punch - do you want the inner bit (hub) - or the outer (basket)? The OEM hub in my 900 is alloy - not steel. It's only the basket that was steel (now a Barnett alloy unit). So unless your hub is showing signs of wear or failure (I have had a clutch hub expire - not on a Duc, but...) you shouldn't need to worry about it.

And my 5c worth - go for the alloy basket and plates. It's a bit less rattly, and you get a noticeable performance boost (in that the engine revs a bit faster) as a benefit. As for the life of the Barnett clutches - mine is now at 25,000kms, and still working fine - which is kinda nice, as my OEM clutch (with OEM plates and Surflex plates) needed new plates every 20,000kms. And by 'needed' - I mean NEEDED!
 

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Thanks Steve - exactly the plain English response I was seeking.

I was not sure if the hub was alloy or steel, so that really helps.

The hub is rooted/stuffed/cactus/f#cked.
 

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the hub is an aluminium outer piece that sits over an inner steel piece, with triangular rubber blocks between them. what is wrong with the hub? apart from wearing at the big star washer at the front, they generally last forever.
Corrugated, but I will check again how bad.

Might get a basket before dismantling, so hopefully it is done immediately or needs a new hub to be ordered then.
 

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I need to remove the fairing etc. to take a pic. I will do that over the weekend.

Maybe a myth but had heard the hub corrugations were less important that those in the basket
 

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Punch
If you buy from a pre 1098 it is a drop in and aluminum basket and plates as well if you care. After that oem clutch packs and outer baskets are pretty interchangeable pick what you can get a good deal on and you like the looks/sound of.
So a complete 749/999 kit as in hub, basket and plates will drop straight in?

Hope so because I just found a second hand, low mileage one for $300.

I will do some compatibility checks, but if you know the answer straight off I will buy it.
 

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Thanks as ever Brad - I will commit to the purchase as soon as I remember my login password etc.

Need to go to an older computer to auto login!

Island Classic at PI is looking brilliant, so we might meet at last.

Richard
 

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Punch
Yes Brad had you covered I will agree with him that outside of breaking a post hubs do NOT wear out. I change them about never unless there is tip over/crash damage or it is an move to a slipper clutch, other than that I have not seen a reason to change one. Outer basket is another story in that the grooves can get so deep the plates hang up and the pack does not separate enough, this too can be remedied with a file to make the basket continue but as you gain space between the plate tab and the basket you increase the wear rate and noise level.

As to aluminum vs steel.
steel hubs do exist but they are probably 1980's and earlier so I doubt you will have one anyway. The aluminum hubs have a large steel washer that is under the "cup" this washer can wear into the hub on early models but all you do is add another of the same washer if you have this issue. Later models have a insert so it no longer wears into the aluminum hub.

Steel baskets can run any type of plate, aluminum or steel.
Aluminum baskets SHOULD run aluminum plates but sintered plates will be steel, as far as I know all slippers running sintered plates run steel plates in aluminum baskets. I did a 848 dry clutch conversion last year and the "kit" came with non-sintered plates on aluminum, clearly street focused which will lead to shorter friction material life.
Steel baskets ring, Aluminum baskets thud. Pick your sound and enjoy, though remember us mechanics are running your bike on a bench with that open dry clutch at ear level ......What......what did you say?

The 749/999 kit should bring your bike up to latest spec for a dry clutch it should last a good long time. At that price it should be a bargain and just a drop in. make sure to Loctite those outer basket bolts or oil will weep through the threads and cause a leak.


When you said you are only getting 20,000km out of a oem clutch what was wrong with it? I have oem clutches going 50,000 miles that are only changed due to noise. Seriously 20,000km is probably jut time for a bit of clean up, you may be doing the same as selling a bike instead of giving it a tune up. Yes noise will grow with age but the clutch should be fully functional well past the time you want to listen to it, I have a 50,000 mile plate on the wall that has about 1/2 tab worn off but friction material is about 80% and I know it would run fine.
 

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So a complete 749/999 kit as in hub, basket and plates will drop straight in?

Hope so because I just found a second hand, low mileage one for $300.

I will do some compatibility checks, but if you know the answer straight off I will buy it.
Oops - it was a wet clutch, so no use.

Moral of the story is don't drink and shop!
Fortunately I realised before purchasing.
Sent an apologetic message to the seller of course.

The info has been great and spot on, so now can proceed armed with the correct info.
 

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Punch
When you said you are only getting 20,000km out of a oem clutch what was wrong with it? I have oem clutches going 50,000 miles that are only changed due to noise. Seriously 20,000km is probably jut time for a bit of clean up, you may be doing the same as selling a bike instead of giving it a tune up. Yes noise will grow with age but the clutch should be fully functional well past the time you want to listen to it, I have a 50,000 mile plate on the wall that has about 1/2 tab worn off but friction material is about 80% and I know it would run fine.
That was steveb64, not me.
 

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Been searching and researching (aka procrastinating!)

99.9% sure I will order a complete Ducabike kit from Liam in NZ. Hub, basket, plates, sponges, pressure plate and bearing, etc.

EVR 48T alloy plates and basket will probably add up to AUD$ 400 shipped, then when I add the things I probably should change, it would be a similar price to the Ducabike kit.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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Whoops! sorry Punch must not have had my coffee yet.

I have a 48 tooth basket and while they do seem to last longer and are a different look. Keep in mind that is a mod that can limit your future options, ie: buy spares. With a standard basket you can usually find used plates or something readily available if need be, with a 48 tooth plate it is unlikely someone will have something to get you by. There is not a huge gain in lifespan of the 48 tooth baskets so I would chalk it up to cosmetic as much as anything.

????


lol In the US I have heard of ducati parts coming with lubricating jelly to help the price tag go in easier but never sponges......
 

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Whoops! sorry Punch must not have had my coffee yet.

I have a 48 tooth basket and while they do seem to last longer and are a different look. Keep in mind that is a mod that can limit your future options, ie: buy spares. With a standard basket you can usually find used plates or something readily available if need be, with a 48 tooth plate it is unlikely someone will have something to get you by. There is not a huge gain in lifespan of the 48 tooth baskets so I would chalk it up to cosmetic as much as anything.
Thanks - I will stick with 12T.

lol In the US I have heard of ducati parts coming with lubricating jelly to help the price tag go in easier but never sponges......
Made specially for Australian conditions!
 

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corrugated sounds pretty std to me. photo?
Attached image is crappy - had to use my phone as my SLR camera decided to crap itself.

Interesting to me is that the top right of the image shows a couple of things.

Grooves are concentrated in the centre of the hub and on one face.

Recollection is that the hub spins (drives) anticlockwise, so this is caused by engine braking, not drive?

The bike and hence hub and basket about 100,000 km so circuit 60,000 miles.
 

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never seen one like that before. wear behind the big star washer?
Not sure what you mean about the wear behind the star washer, but glad I am not cracking up about it not being right.

I will find out when I pull it apart.
 

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never seen one like that before. wear behind the big star washer?
My 916 clutch assembly appeared to be loose, it was a mm or so further out than it should be to the point where the spring retainer just started touching against the open cover - I could hold the hub and push/pull it in and out.

The 'star' washer had eaten into the hub surface and was virtually flush inside it, removing it revealed a star-shaped hole in the body of the hub.
 
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