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Discussion Starter #1
Think it's time to change my clutch disc set. I checked out a couple website like ca-cycleworks, desmotimes and of course eBay.

Are all these kits universal? For instance, ca-cycleworks states "Barnett DryFlex clutch, alum plates - fitment: All dry clutches". Desmotimes states "Barnett - Only for use on Aluminum clutch baskets. If you install these clutches in a steel clutch basket, they will wear prematurely."

Then there is eBay, it lists a Barnett kit for "DUCATI 600 620 750 800" at $164 but a kit for a "998 996 monster 900ss 999 748 749" at $185?

Am I missing something here? Do I need a specific part # for my 99 900ss? Everything is stock on my bike so I assume I have a steel basket? I'm just looking to an OEM equivalent replacement, nothing special.

Thanks for any help!
BR
 

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If you have the OEM steel basket, you must use steel friction plates. If you use aluminum, the plates will be hammered by the harder material of the steel basket and the tangs will be beaten out of shape very quickly. And, in all the reading I did in looking for a clutch replacement a year ago, I picked up that Barnett was the least favored choice. The most, even by those that take them on the track, are the OEM Ducati, which come in both aluminum and steel. I happened to choose Sureflex. The modulation out of the gate is great, but as I've only been able to put about 40 miles on my bike in the last year I can't speak to it's longevity (though I hear it's good).

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #6
$250 eh? Hm, would it be better to get a nice performance pack if I'm going to be spending that much? Does Barnett make a steel version? I'm on a tight budget here.

Does anyone have any experience filing down the rings for a little extra life? :eek:
 

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$250 eh? Hm, would it be better to get a nice performance pack if I'm going to be spending that much? Does Barnett make a steel version? I'm on a tight budget here.

Does anyone have any experience filing down the rings for a little extra life? :eek:
I'd recommend EBC clutch kit (incl. springs)
I've had no issues with 'em after many miles...
 

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Sometimes good used clutch packs show up on E-Bay. Lots of Ducatis get parted out before they've had a chance to wear their clutches out. If the pictures are good enough to show condition, I'd have no problem buying one of those.

Rick
 

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i'd confirm plate thickness by micing and comparing to min spec in service manual before purchasing blindly. The numbers don't lie.

and ....OP neglects to say why he thinks its clutch replacement time and what lead him to the conclusion.
 

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I had one clutch that had a few very worn plates and just swapped them around in arrangement to get a bit more out of it. This might not be what the OP is looking for but it might help if he's having slight slipping. Worked for me plus I added a half DP cover to help keep things a little cooler.

Yeah, it was a rattling fool too!
 

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i'm in the same boat too. i'm sure the clutch is the original with 20-25k mile. it has about 2-2.5mm of play and it's like riding a jack hammer. after adding up the parts i need/want to replace. a used slipper would be the most cost effective solution. but i'm scared about getting one. it just scares me from some of the stories about how the slippers are picky about stack height and such.

desmotimes hard basket $270
barnett clutch $150
SSR hub $200
pressure plate $100
springs & retainers $40
-----------------------------------
$760 :mad:


i have the money but i have to buy some new belts, frame sliders, and new drivetrain.

you gotta pay to play though.
 

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desmotimes $ option

I installed the "full monty" with surflex plates in my 1995 sssp 6 months, 1000 miles and 1 track day ago. Could not be happier. My bike had ~12k on it when I bought it, not well maintained and the clutch was hammered, plates were below thickness limits, loads of rattle and it was pretty inconsistent. It was the original clutch that came stock with the bike in 1995. I drove on that original clutch for my first year of ownership (~2k miles) and really was hating it in traffic, super hard to be smooth. It was on or off, super grabby, then sometimes under heavy torque it would slip a little? probably it would have benefitted from a good cleaning. Anyways...

I popped for the $874 option since my drum/hub was shot also. Sucked for the first ride, wouldn't disengage all the way, I thought I put the stack together according to the instructions, measured the height, all in spec, why wouldn't it disengage when I pull the lever?

A good bleed of the clutch fluid solved the problem. I must have pulled the shaft when removing the old clutch and gotten some air into the clutch fluid. Now it works perfectly.

I couldn't be happier. It could not work better. Much smoother taking off from lights, no slipping under power. That coffee can filled with rocks sound has been replaced by something that would be a little closer to sleigh bells by comparison. Much quieter is what I'm saying here.

No idea if this one will last another 12k, but we can hope. I'll be bummed if I have to replace it in less than 5k miles. $900 is a lot of cash in my book.

hope that helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm wondering about a new clutch because I'm pushing 36k on the original.

Was a commute bike for about half those miles. My clutch is SUPER loud; even the guys at Nichols where like "damn this thing is loud dude". That was about 4k ago but they said it was fine.

Also it seems when I pull the clutch lever in all the way, it's like the clutch is still engaged just a tiny bit and shifting is getting harder. Is there some cable adjustment I can check?

Any thoughts?

BR
 

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I'm wondering about a new clutch because I'm pushing 36k on the original.

Was a commute bike for about half those miles. My clutch is SUPER loud; even the guys at Nichols where like "damn this thing is loud dude". That was about 4k ago but they said it was fine.

Also it seems when I pull the clutch lever in all the way, it's like the clutch is still engaged just a tiny bit and shifting is getting harder. Is there some cable adjustment I can check?

Any thoughts?

BR
No cable; bleed it. Is the reservoir full? Dude, 36 K is plenty. Get a new clutch.
 

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Do not get Barnett clutch pack!

I'm wondering about a new clutch because I'm pushing 36k on the original.

Was a commute bike for about half those miles. My clutch is SUPER loud; even the guys at Nichols where like "damn this thing is loud dude". That was about 4k ago but they said it was fine.

Any thoughts?
BR
On my 99 900SS - now with 72K miles - I got more than 45K on the OEM before I replaced it. I rebuilt it three times, filing tangs etc and it was VF loud, but never slipped.

I got the very cool aluminum Barnett clutch basket (steel reinforced tabs) and made the mistake of getting the Barnett plates. In about 15K miles I had to replace it because it started to slip. What a disappointing difference and clearly, false economy trying to save a C note!

Spend the extra $100 or so and get the Ducati OEM clutch pack. You will be glad you did.
 

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I've used both OEM and Barnett. I don't have any complaint about Barnett and the price is very reasonable.
 

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If you have the OEM steel basket, you must use steel friction plates. If you use aluminum, the plates will be hammered by the harder material of the steel basket and the tangs will be beaten out of shape very quickly.
Not true. I've had Barnett clutches in my dry clutch'd Ducatis for tens of thousands of miles. No problems.

Barnetts do not suffer hard use/abuse as well as other brands though. So if clutch up wheelies or drag-race launches are part of your riding, you probably want to shop a different brand. I had Barnett clutches in my 1992 900SS for 20k+ miles (then sold the bike) and in Pongo with the crazy 104hp/76ft-lb engine. Pongo's was actually a used clutch pack I got from a customer. And someone once tried GP shifting with Pongo and roasted the clutch trying to start in 6th gear. And it still kept on working. I consider Barnett great everyday rider clutches.

:) Chris
 
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