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yes, outer all the way down. makes you cringe when you have a crappy tube.

per torbjorn's first point, you can also cut the corner from a plastic back and fit the triangular section over the top of the fork to slide the seals over. you can buy seal guide sleeves as well, but the tape is more than adequate.

as per #3, the sliding tool is the go. just don't get fleshy bits in between the top of the fork outer and the driver lip. you'd be amazed how well a fork tube cuts. or not.
977065
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks again. I picked up a motion pro tool and it did pretty good, but seemed far too easy for both the bushing and the seal to slide in. We'll see tomorrow if it even holds oil or gushes out.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just wanted to chime back in and say thanks for the help from everyone here. It seemed much more difficult of an undertaking to do at first but in total it was relatively easy. Just didn't want to go into it blindly without knowing the ins-and-outs of things. Both belts replaced, both forks rebuilt, and all seems fine after turning the key. Both forks had similar markings about 1/3 the way up the inner tube facing forwards, which had rubbed both the coating and the outer tube off. The bushings themselves looked fine, so I did not think much of them.

Drained and flushed the radiator with some Prestone 50/50. It was only 1/2 full, and the overfill/expansion reservoir was completely empty. Filled the radiator up, let the bike warm up to about 130F and then filled the reservoir the remaining amount.

Oil and filter will be the next job. I've read about the mesh filter and will check that too. I know it has a K/N filter on it now and the oil level is fine when the bike was level, but it appeared dirty when looking through the sight glass. The Shell Advance Ultra seems quite expensive, so I'm open to other 10W40 alternatives. Is there anything particular that would benefit the engine more since it has a dry clutch? The bike also has 24.6k miles, would Castrol 10W40 high mileage be a good alternative?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Around Atlanta, Georgia. Coldest it gets is mid 20s (-3C) but that's rare. I'll be riding in weather from the mid 50s (12C) to 95+ (35C). Once I get the oil changed I'll probably not ride it till March when better weather shows again.

I only bring up the 40 weight as it is listed on top of the airbox.
 

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The bike also has 24.6k miles, would Castrol 10W40 high mileage be a good alternative?
Bro, bike is not even run in yet ;)
For the Ducati engine I would recommend this:

It's expencive, but should be quite good. And well, it's only small price to pay and you know your engine should be well protected.
 
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