[Andreaz]

Hello everybody

It's winter in Norway, and I've started a new experiment. I'm going to install a 1098 dash on my 2002 SS 900 ie. I'm on a student budget, but I think it will be fun and interesting.

Here is my bike:

I got my hands on a cracked 1098 dashboard. It was cheap and I could not afford a good one. My goal is to get it to work, and then fix it later. I'm going to use a SS1000ie wire harness and a 848 5AM ECU flashed with a multistrada BIN to disable the immobilizer.

 

[Andreaz]

First step is to remove the speedo drive. I installed a used spacer from a SS 1000, and put on some new SKF 6005-bearings too:

Removing the speedo drive made the wheel turn much more freely!

And then I had to make a way of installing the hall effect speed sensor. I went for the stock SS 1000 rear calliper bracket. I did some service on the calliper too, new pads and cleaned 15 years of muck and grime.

 

[Andreaz]

Attached is pictures of the old and new-cracked instrument panel. I have to make a custom bracket, and maybe modify the fairing stay. I'm going to sell the old cluster to cover my costs.

 

[bradblack]

i think you'll need a 1098 harness too, as a lot of the info going into the 1098 dash is canbus'd from the ecu. and a 1098 or variant file in the ecu. probably matching ecu file and loom.

 

[Andreaz]

i think you'll need a 1098 harness too, as a lot of the info going into the 1098 dash is canbus'd from the ecu. and a 1098 or variant file in the ecu. probably matching ecu file and loom.

I'm going to modify the SS harness. I will do a write up once I'm done. I have not figured out what to do with the missing mode switch yet. The speedo signals needs to go to the ECU instead of the dash, and air temperature needs to go to the gauges instead of the ECU. The rest is pretty much just switching pins on the 26 pin gauge connector (easy) and some of the ECU pins (I have not tried to do that yet).
A fellow forum member gave me some tips on how to get this working. I can confirm that the multistrada BIN will send the right CAN bus signals.

 

[Andreaz]

Some progress, I've pulled the old wire harness, removed fairings and front stay. Next step is to clean up the engine bay and frame and check valve clearance. It will be a bit slow progress for now, I'm quite busy with my studies. I'm only doing 30 minutes work each day. Slow but steady!

 

[SalkinSalkin]

Sometimes I wonder why people embark on and go through so much ordeal to fit/change something different.

But interesting.....

 

[Andreaz]

Sometimes I wonder why people embark on and go through so much ordeal to fit/change something different.

But interesting.....

Because I want an 5AM ECU in my bike to play with
Removing the wire harness and airbox makes the valve adjustment much easier, and a ss1000ie dash would have cost me a kidney or two. Besides, I enjoy working on my bike just as much as riding it. In the winter the weather is so bad in my area that I don't ride much anyways.

 

[Punch]

Sometimes I wonder why people embark on and go through so much ordeal to fit/change something different.

But interesting.....

Agree, but then if we did not embark on things, then we would all believe the world is flat and many other examples.

I like analysing motorbike data for no personal gain, but then it keeps my mind active and some have benefitted from that.

Andreaz and I have an agreement, when I get booked in Norway for over the top speeding, he will get me off.

I recall the legal term is Quid pro quo, but it is not really in our case as it was never quid pro quo.

 

[ducvet]

Sometimes I wonder why people embark on and go through so much ordeal to fit/change something different.

Some people buy bikes... others build bikes.

If you get enjoyment from modding and have or can learn how why not?

 

[Punch]

Sometimes I wonder why people embark on and go through so much ordeal to fit/change something different.

But interesting.....

In spite of my flat earth comment, which was not a criticism, I have a long list of never repeat activities.

 

[Kiwihame]

This is pretty cool! Really enjoying your write up already!

"We Do These Things Not Because They Are Easy But Because They Are Hard" -JFK (paraphrased)

 

[jacelikat]

I am very interested in this project! I am in the middle of building a TT1 replica using a 1000DS engine, ECU and wiring loom. I will probably use a 1098 dash on my build simply because I happen to have one lying around. I will be very interested in your write up about swapping around the various pins in the dash connector and the ecu.

 

[bradblack]

I have a long list of never repeat activities.

yeah, i know a fuckwit who put paso wheels in a monster.

 

[Andreaz]

Small update. I'm not in a hurry, so it's gonna be baby steps. I'm working on a CF mounting bracket for the dash. My first attempt of making a plug didn't go that well, so I started on a new one.

I started to work on the harness part. I'm going to use a MTS1100 BIN, and was recommended to use a capacitor (230 uF) between the 5v and fuel sensor pin on the ECU (body23 IIRC). It was a fellow forum members idea. I don't know much about capacitors, but I'm trying to lear. I just don't understand why I can't use a resistor. Or can I? As you all know, the Multistrada uses a fuel level sensor, and not just a low fuel sensor. I need to trick the ECU to think it has the sensor connected so I don't get a CEL. I cant afford to brick the ECU.

Anyway, I butchered a MTS1000 harness to get hold of a light relay connector with a dash pin connected, and a air temperature sensor connector with two dash pins.

 

[Andreaz]

I've used the last few days to figure out what to do with the wire harness. To fake the fuel level sensor on the MTS1100-flashed ECU, I'm just going to put a 10k resistor between 5v VVS (ECU pin pin E32 Bn/G, which also supplies the TPS with 5v) and fuel level sensor input (ECU pin B23 B/W). The low fuel signal from my SS fuel tank will go directly to the dash as OEM on both 1098 and SSie.

The mode switch A and B will not be installed, because I don't have money to buy the 1098 switch. Maybe I'll make my own temporary mode switch, as it simply works by sending 12v or 0v (GND) to the dash pin 16.

I'm still working on the dash mounting bracket, I think I have to dumb it down, and not spend so much time on it. I might try to make a mold for it on friday.

The wire harness is now on my work bench, ready to be modified.

 

[Andreaz]

I have molested the MTS harness (It's nice to have an extra harness to practice on), and cracked open the ECU-connectors. I tried to pry out a few of the terminals with a steel wire of the appropriate size, but it would not move. I tried my luck and pulled two terminals from the harness side of the connector. Sure enough they came out, but they will not click back into the ECU-connector. The terminal retainer drawer will hold them in place (the yellow drawer), but I want them to click back in. I have to figure this out. They should be removable. There is only a few of the ECU terminals that I have to move, so this is no big deal. I'll look into it this weekend. Worst case, I have to buy a few new terminals.

The plug for my dash-support is done, I just need to let the epoxy fully cure before I can continue. I hope this one turns out OK.

And, I switched from the non-linear to linear TPS taken off a Fiat. I took my time to clean up the throttle bodies. I will do a TPS reset with a little twist. When I've got the ECU up and running, I'll back off the throttle stops and balance screw, reset the TPS (electronically), adjust the stop screw so that the ECU reads twice the opening, then do another TPS reset. The TBs are set at 2.4 degrees and balanced there. I think it will be a little higher depending on the reset value of the ECU and BIN I'm using. I might have to to a TB balance later, but that's okey. I hope this will not ruin my low end tuning too much. I'm interpolating my 15M map, that Punch helped me with, to convert it into a 5AM map. I've heard there might me a fixed factor I have to multiply my map to get the right values. More on that later.

And, UKSteve helped me with the values of the MTS fuel level sensor. It's 10k ohms at full and 100k at empty. I might use a 22k 1/4 watt resistor to fake an almost full tank of fuel - This will us a little less current compared to the 10k resistor.

Update: The terminals have to be oriented the correct way to re-click in. Now I just have to figure out the best way to remove them. I'll practice some more on the MTS harness before I start on the SS1000 harness I will actually use.

 

[spacey]

Connectors require pin extraction tools to remove the pins without damage and proper crimp tools to crimp the pins onto wire. Look at the connector to determine what type it is, then search on line for the proper tools. Be forewarned, the tools, especially good crimp tools are not cheap.

 

[Andreaz]

Connectors require pin extraction tools to remove the pins without damage and proper crimp tools to crimp the pins onto wire. Look at the connector to determine what type it is, then search on line for the proper tools. Be forewarned, the tools, especially good crimp tools are not cheap.

I made my own extraction tool from two staples, hot glue and two cable ties. These connectors are no longer in production by *****, but Molex makes a similar CMC connector with the same terminal pins. Terminal serial number 98913 and 64322. The Molex extraction tool is USD 118.00, so I saved my self some money making my own tool. Removing the pins does not require any force, just wiggle them out.
Don't panic! The connector in the picture is my test-connector from a donor harness.

 

[Andreaz]

I've mocked up the dash bracket. I think I'll just clear coat it and leave it a little rough around the edges for now. I'll make something new next winter I think. My goal is to get this working, and then fix the small details later. The headlight rubber gasket is not installed, so there will be less light around the dash when it's installed on the bike. I'm off to serve my country for a few days, not much will happen for a week or so.