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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this week i open up the stock exhaust cans and cored them as shown in this thread http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=49189

Most of the photos in the other thread would be the same so I am not posting pics of most of the dirty work. Only real difference was instead of cutting into the exposed part of the can, I cut into the section under the exhaust tip. Here are a few shots.

I must say, I LOVE the sound of these working together with the Zards. This thing sounds amazing, badass and throaty. Everything I wanted when I walked into the ducati dealer.

here is the first one mostly tig welded back together


an action shot of me


a stock one next to a finished one-hard to tell the difference and the freshly chromed tips ready for business


here is just a lame shot of me but wtf

for the end result check out my pics on the picture thread i posted today
 

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Sweet... very nice work and glad to see that info help someone!
What model miller is that? I am planning on picking up a dynast 200 as soon as my shop is built. Hoping for the end of the month
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks Terry! Thanks Kingsnake!
those tips are BOSS! first i polished them out but when i sent out the subframe he only wanted 15 bucks more to do the tips, sweet. For me though, I just can't get over the sound. just want to give props to Kerr West Plating in Phoenix Az. He did the subframe for $70. and it turned out great.

It's an older Miller, sorry don't recall the model number, but we have many new and old machines at my work and i'd take this one over any.
 

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Dagnabbit.

You made me go out and use a hole saw to drill out the centers of the exhausts last night. I don't have a welder but I will go to the muffler shop and get them welded back together when I'm finished. I am looking for a chromer that could hook me up on the tips quickly I hope.

Are the tips aluminum or metal?

There are about 3 different methods on how to mod the interrnals. Which did you do, as your discription sounds just like what I am looking for.:think:
 

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Tips are aluminium. The sound of the cored exhaust is awesome. After hearing that It would be realy hard to justify spending for an aftermarket set up
 

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Can't find a freaking chrome plater in this town, that speaks english and has less than a two week turn around.

No chrome tips for me....:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Hey Terry, if you could handle looking at your exhaust without the tips for a month, Kerr West only wanted 15 bucks to plate mine.
so basically Kingsnake said most of it here
#1 remove pipes. It pretty straight fwd take off. you will have to remove the license plate bracket and the side covers. then separate the 2 cans
#2 drill out the rivets. They are stainless so go SLOW with the drill and use a good bit. Just drill them until the tops come off. Then use a blunt punch (like what you use to set a nail) and hammer the base of the rivet into the pipe. You will hear it drop out and it will leave the hole nice and clean. You could drill the rivets all the way out but that is REALLY tough and would probably eat up some bits.
#3 grind or cut the fake end thing off the can. It like there is this little raised piece with 3 tabs holding it on. I used a grinder and cut it at the weld.
#4 cut the real end off the can. For this I use a plasma a torch or cut off saw would work but plasma's are the best. You will also need to cut around the outlet hole as well. The the end will come off and you can see the inside of the exhaust can.
#5 Remove the small pipe that originally was welded to the exhaust tip. This is tough because its hard to get into the can to get it. I ended up using a metal chisel to free it up a little and a pipe wrench to twist it free.
#6 weld it all back together. It doesn't have to be welded solid... just line it up and weld it enough that you know it is there. weld the fake end cap back on too. if you dont have a welder Im sure a local muffler shop would weld it up for a couple of bux
#7 put the aluminum caps back on and rivet them in place with 5/32 rivets. I used stainless that are hard on cheap rivet gun though. I think aluminum rivets would be fine.
#8 put the exhaust back on the bike... use loctite on the bolts!!!
#9 Listen to that sweet sweet Ducati roar.



what i will add is on step #4 after you cut the outlet free you will want to finish this hole at 1 3/4 inches.
step #5 is the hardest part for sure. i hacked at the outlet pipe with a die grinder bit by bit. i cut this down to about an inch long stub then went at the inside of the stub with an carbite tip in the die grinder to release the weld that is on the back side. (I think this weld is why the other post my MY45 cut into the exposed part of the can.)
Carbite tip

you could just cut the stub short and clean it up and be fine as well. you would then be looking at something like this.


Step #7 i used 3/16" stainless rivets because thats what i had on hand
weld the end back on and its a wrap.
 

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Yo tengo un cromiador que es rapido y bueno en Hialeah. HEHE sorry but had to do that. Just a little Miami humor.

S
 

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Sickford you did a real clean job. You should consider doing them for for hire. If you do LMK.
 

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Did them last night.

Had the local muffler shop weld them up this morning.

Freaking rivits kicked my ass.

Will put it back together this afternoon.:abduct:
 

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Holy Sheit! Man does this baby rip now.:eek:

It may be a tad loud, but with ear plugs the sound is perfect. (I just hope my neighbors have some). Seems to have freed up some ponies up top, thats for sure. Big time effort to keep the front wheel down in the first few gears.:D

Fuck the rivits. I put mine back together with stainless steel button heads.:cool: Just in case I have to go back in there. I ripped out the little tubes completly. I don't know how the engine could breathe with those in there. She can breathe now, thats for damn sure.

Kinda sounds like two baddass XR650s running side by side till you kick it, then it's all pro stock. It even sounds great when you shift!:)

Great mod. 40 bucks for the muffler shop to do the welding plus a 5 buck tip for the welder. (He did a great job cleaning everything before the weld and was careful not to scratch it). Beats the H E doublehockeysticks out of spending a thousand bucks on a new pipe right now.

80 degrees outside. Time to ride!:abduct:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was going to post yesterday about them being a tad loud but you were already committed it seemed. I'd like to think I saved that thousand bucks as well. Never thought it needed much more power (this is my first bike) but always wanted some extra noise. I had never heard a hyper run until after I bought mine and I was pretty disappointed after hearing other 1000+cc ducatis previously.
 

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Are you guys still using the stock ECU? Air box lid mod?

Just wondering if the stock lean mixture is exacerbated now that the engine is moving more air?
 

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I did the air box mod as well.. my bike did run better after doing the work. It did run leaner but not alot. I did a plug chop as method of testing
 

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Airbox mod, K&N Filter, Slip on ECU (308B) set at +5 and LV Cat eliminator with flapper valve removed.

This beeyatch rips. Night and Day Difference:D

I would love a set of those chrome tips tho.:( They do look BOSS on Sick's ride.:)
 

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Airbox mod, K&N Filter, Slip on ECU (308B) set at +5 and LV Cat eliminator with flapper valve removed.

This beeyatch rips. Night and Day Difference:D

I would love a set of those chrome tips tho.:( They do look BOSS on Sick's ride.:)
... I meant using the stock ECU ;)
I know, with a DP ECU the "running lean problem" is gone but the same will happen to my money :rolleyes:
 
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