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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 1098S (10K miles on it) two weeks ago, but for a variety of reasons, primarily wet weather, today was the first chance I had to take if for a "real" ride. I'd ridden it around a bit on the poor roads near my house, but today I took it on a quick 50 mile morning loop. What a hoot!

I'm almost 65 and beginning to be a bit arthritic, so I expected some wrist and back pain, but on the other hand I still play a lot of racquetball and keep active, so I'm still pretty flexible, in an old-man kind of way. As it turned out the ride wasn't unduly uncomfortable. I bought a set of Helibars from another member, and I think I'll put those on to straighten and raise my wrists a bit, and I'm pretty sure the rear spring is too harsh for my 190 pounds. I'll also take a lot of compression and rebound damping out of both ends to soften the ride. I won't be doing any race track riding (unless they actually open a proposed road course near here) so a softer ride will suit my mostly legal speeds. (Speaking of which, the lower adjuster on the shock is accessible from a slot in the swing-arm, or at least it should be. It doesn't line up when the bike is on the rear stand. Is there a trick to getting to it?)

I found that the mirrors provide a terrific view of the inside of my elbows, and also that the bike really isn't meant for the local 30 mph roads I had to take to get to more open spaces. I did my whole loop using 2nd and 3rd gear, only using 1st to leave the garage and a couple of stop-lights, and only ticking it into 4th briefly, just to do it.

I've ridden some pretty good bikes, including racing a TZ-250 and TZ-500 long ago, and this son-of-a-gun is one of the best handling bikes I've ever ridden. I never even came close to redline on this ride, but the grunt in the lower 2/3 of the rev range had me grinning in my helmet. I've not had a speeding ticket in many, many years, but I can see it will take some concentration and good luck to keep that string alive.

Cheers!
 

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Congratulations on your purchase, top work! Lots of smiles per mile !

Everyone has their own opinion on suspension set up but try setting the preload on the front to 3 turns in from fully out, and compression and rebound to 12 clicks out from fully in and see how you get on with that, assuming that the front springs haven't already been changed. The only way to tell if they've been changed is to remove them and look on the flat face - aftermarket / replacement springs will have the weight stamped on them, the original Ohlins just have a couple of marks on them.
I think the 1098S has the Ohlins TTX Mk1 shock, the rear spring is for a 175lb rider so you're not a million miles off with your weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think the 1098S has the Ohlins TTX Mk1 shock, the rear spring is for a 175lb rider so you're not a million miles off with your weight.
Funny, it seems that the rear is sprung too heavy for me. The spring markings are clearly visible, so I'll check the Ohlins PN. I'm fairly confident front and rear springs are both stock. Right now I set the suspension adjustments to the factory setting as listed in the owner's manual, and both seem fairly harsh. I'm going to have to find a way to lift the bike to measure full extension, and go from there to set sag. The front end felt pretty good at street-legal speeds, but a bit harsh on the bumps. The rear end felt pretty stiff, as if it's set for track riding. It'll be fun to get it sorted!

And no, it's not much like my RT!
 
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Has it got an aftermarket exhaust and ECU fitted? If not, get one, it brings the bike to life. Also consider a vented clutch cover.
 

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Funny, it seems that the rear is sprung too heavy for me. The spring markings are clearly visible, so I'll check the Ohlins PN. I'm fairly confident front and rear springs are both stock. Right now I set the suspension adjustments to the factory setting as listed in the owner's manual, and both seem fairly harsh. I'm going to have to find a way to lift the bike to measure full extension, and go from there to set sag. The front end felt pretty good at street-legal speeds, but a bit harsh on the bumps. The rear end felt pretty stiff, as if it's set for track riding. It'll be fun to get it sorted!

And no, it's not much like my RT!
At least on the 848 Evo the spring was only half the issue. The other is the rising rate link made for riding with the passenger. When I changed the spring to fit my weight I also got a Foresaken linear link. It made the rear so much more compliant and removed the harness. Perhaps worth investigating as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has it got an aftermarket exhaust and ECU fitted?
Yes, it has the full Termi exhaust with the "racing" ECU. It sounds pretty great!
 

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I'm almost 65 and beginning to be a bit arthritic, so I expected some wrist and back pain, but on the other hand I still play a lot of racquetball and keep active, so I'm still pretty flexible, in an old-man kind of way. As it turned out the ride wasn't unduly uncomfortable. I bought a set of Helibars from another member, and I think I'll put those on to straighten and raise my wrists a bit, and I'm pretty sure the rear spring is too harsh for my 190 pounds. I'll also take a lot of compression and rebound damping out of both ends to soften the ride. I won't be doing any race track riding (unless they actually open a proposed road course near here) so a softer ride will suit my mostly legal speeds. (Speaking of which, the lower adjuster on the shock is accessible from a slot in the swing-arm, or at least it should be. It doesn't line up when the bike is on the rear stand. Is there a trick to getting to it?)

Cheers!
Holy Cow!! I am in the middle of getting my recently bought 1098s ready for the street and I noticed your comment on the shock adjuster. Most of the things I see on this bike make sense to me, but that one has to take 1st prize in the Stupid on Steroids Awards. I have 2 flex shaft tools for that kind of thing but neither one will work. I am trying to put the hex bit into a piece of old, stiff 1/4" fuel line and it gets through the hole, but then I can't figure a way to see to insert the bit into the adjuster. WTF were they thinking?? Anyway, if anyone know how to adjust the shock without pulling the shock out, let us know. If I figure it out, I will post it here. Good luck! It seems we will need it. -Gordo
 

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Oh.. unless you're a Yoga and Pilates Master, you WILL be sore tomorrow ;] Bright side is, riding that bike regularly will make you one! Once you're whipped into shape, remove the helibars and go to Ninja Level 馃晧
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Extra long hex driver, I have a bondhus 3756
I'll look again, but it appears to me that the adjuster is not aligned with the slot. Are you using a ball-end driver?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
unless you're a Yoga and Pilates Master, you WILL be sore tomorrow
Neither one, but I'm not sore today. I play a lot of racquetball which keeps the shoulders and back limber-ish. I'm guessing that the effects of old age aren't likely to reverse, so the Helibars aren't likely to be removed. I'm an "enthusiastic" rider, but generally try to stay at speeds that won't land me in jail so the full racer crouch isn't necessary for my riding.
 
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I invented a little tool to try on the adjuster - it has a ball end hex head on it, and works fine on my forks , but it will not produce enough torque to turn the adjuster on the rear shock. Mine may be stuck?
@mikemat : Does the long ball-end hex do the trick? It seemed too much of an angle and I was feeling inventive, but if it works, I'll toss my tool and go to the store. Cheers -Gordo

I made it from a bicycle control cable, stripped the end, inserted the cut off hex bit end, bound it with safety wire and soldered it so it wont slip around.
1012668


1012671
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I made it from a bicycle control cable, stripped the end, inserted the cut off hex bit end, bound it with safety wire and soldered it so it wont slip around.
Very inventive, but good golly, that shouldn't be required! I'll try your idea, though. Thanks!
 

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Very inventive, but good golly, that shouldn't be required! I'll try your idea, though. Thanks!
Wait for Mikemat to reply to my question above before you go to work on a tool - it may not be necessary. Cheers!
BTW I'm the same as you - my first superbikes and I'm 63. I have two now. It's like eating potato chips... My biggest fear when I ride is getting arrested, as it seem I'm taking my 998 over 100mph every time I ride. -G
 

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Wait for Mikemat to reply to my question above before you go to work on a tool - it may not be necessary. Cheers!
BTW I'm the same as you - my first superbikes and I'm 63. I have two now. It's like eating potato chips... My biggest fear when I ride is getting arrested, as it seem I'm taking my 998 over 100mph every time I ride. -G
Funny, All us old guys are buying up the sport bikes. Just turned 72 and bought a 2004 998sfe. One of the most fun bikes i've ever owned. I also have Diavel 1260s and find if i know i'm only going out for 100 miles or so i'll take the 998 when ever i can.

George
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My adjustment screw is a straight shot through the swingarm.
Wow. Mine is well below the slot in the swingarm. What could be different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ts at an angle from over the rearset, you can kinda see it in my first pic. I think it does need to be a ball end.
I just checked my bike using a long, thin Phillips head screwdriver, and I'm certain that a long ball-end hex driver will work. I'll get one on its way. Thanks, Mikemat!
 
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