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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 996 with 137xx miles. Its been runing great. Tonight my gf and I decided to take a ride. Went to her sisters (approx. 15 miles) and had no problems. Leaving her sisters the bike struggled to turn on and stalled on me as we were leaving. Then the issues began. The bike didn't sound good (not the typical grunt from a Ducati... it was like if the bike was clogged up or something) and at low RPM (0-3000) and it was lacking power. Over 3000 RPM it seem just find except that every now and then it would 'catch' and the RPM's would jump and then they would fall. Temp was normal, just a tad over 180. Pulled over and checked the bike and nothing seemed wrong. No smells or no weird sounds (metal on metal). I don't know where to start on how to fix this, need your help!!!!!!

THANKS!
 

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Charging system is going bad. Check the big 40A fuse next to the battery and the yellow wires going from the left hand side engine case to the rectifier (next to the battery).

Usually, the white connector that connects the yellow wires gets fried.

btw nice bike in your avatar, should post a bigger pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update - Took a look at my charging system and battery. The battery was low on water so I added some and boom.. issues were gone (or so I thought). Ran the bike in my garage and everything was great. Took her out for a ride and it was good. Yesterday took her out again and all the issues came back but 10 fold. Major power lose, bike wouldn't rev over 5k and then it would kick on and full power would be resorted. Once bike was reving good then everything would be okay.

So to sum things up here's whats going on:
- high revs, bike is okay
- low revs, bike loses power, sounds bad, misfires
- idling sometimes normal ~1200 rpm but sometimes (when issues start) less than ~1000 rpm
- only way to get bike to rev normal (have normal power) get revs as high as possible and downshift (1 gear shift to 2nd, then downshift to 1st)
- bike struggles to start up (even if on battery tender)

Where should I start the troubleshooting?

Thanks!
 

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Update - Took a look at my charging system and battery. The battery was low on water so I added some and boom.. issues were gone (or so I thought). Ran the bike in my garage and everything was great. Took her out for a ride and it was good. Yesterday took her out again and all the issues came back but 10 fold. Major power lose, bike wouldn't rev over 5k and then it would kick on and full power would be resorted. Once bike was reving good then everything would be okay.

So to sum things up here's whats going on:
- high revs, bike is okay
- low revs, bike loses power, sounds bad, misfires
- idling sometimes normal ~1200 rpm but sometimes (when issues start) less than ~1000 rpm
- only way to get bike to rev normal (have normal power) get revs as high as possible and downshift (1 gear shift to 2nd, then downshift to 1st)
- bike struggles to start up (even if on battery tender)

Where should I start the troubleshooting?

Thanks!
You might want to go over ALL the grounds (including all on the wiring harness) and battery connections ( BOTH ends of the wire). To frame connection is usually overlooked. Not just look at them but physically remove and clean them to make sure all are tight/secure. That is all it would take with vibration. Something that simple. At least start there.

Sounds like the classic loose connection…..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
update

So I've taken things apart. Here is where I stand:

- Found a couple of 'iffy' connections, some where REALLY dirty, 1 was loose, and one had rust on it. (all cleaned and look like new)
- Rectifier is good (hooked up my roommated 998's to verify)
- Now the bike doesn't seem to be having the same issues as before. Power has been restored.

Current issue: When starting up the bike it will run (idle - ~1200 rpm) for like 1 minute or less and then it starts to struggle and shuts down. If I try to rev it up to save it it will backfire (LOUDY!) and then die. If I don't let it idle and just rev it it runs smooth and strong.

AHHHHHH! Whats wrong? I'm thinking my TPS is off... spark plugs are bad (other than looking at them is there a way to check them?)... could it be my coils or wires?

Any help is greatly appreciated! THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After reading some other postings (on backfiring), I have a question. Is there a chance that I accidentally reset my PCIII when I disconnected my battery? Could it be my CO trim is off and with the bike running extra lean thats why I'm having my new issues? Need some input...

Thanks!
 

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AHHHHHH! Whats wrong? I'm thinking my TPS is off... spark plugs are bad (other than looking at them is there a way to check them?)... could it be my coils or wires?

Any help is greatly appreciated! THANKS!
You cannot look at a plug and determine if its good or bad. They are cheap! If the fairings are off then you should replaced them. At least you'll know.
I've paid 50 bucks each on iridium plugs for V-12's w dual plugs, ($1200 a set) only to find out one was bad from the factory.
I've had a new plug go out on my 999s after only a couple hundred miles. You just never know when or how they fail.
Good luck.:)
 

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Not a Duc expert but have some elec background. I agree with starting simple plugs etc. Have you done a resistance check on your plug caps and coils. As they heat up resistance changes also bad connection bewteen cap and wire can also cause a misfire to apppear. Before I went into the complex I'd KIS. Remember all R values are usually based on a temp. of 20C.
Hope this helps
 

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what sought of voltage is the battery sitting at when bike not running, should be 12.7 if the battery is in good condition. if the water level had dropped below the top of the plates it might be time for a new one. apparently a smart charger that gives the battery a high charge to start with until battery gets up to 80% can recover some batteries but trickle chargers won't do this for you. is there much oxidisation on the plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah going to go pick up some new spark plugs and check on the coils and wires. As for the battery, it checks out (can't remember what it was putting out but it was good) and the plates were never exposed.

When I get home I'm also going to upload my map to my PCIII just incase it somehow got reset. Scratching my head.......
 

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further to paulmm600 comment. Once your battery drops below 10vdc you'will get misfire. There is a chemical available which I can';t remeber the name of, of course. It comes in a crystal form and you add it to a new battery to prevent sulphation on the plates which causes them to short and lose volts/amps. If you can find a ammeter, clip on or in line for DC current you can take a reading on the battery lead while running and see what you're various systems are drawing on the possibility that something is drawing down the battery when you are running. Also check with eng. off to ensure there is no draw..(I doubt this is it as it seems to be only when running you have a prob.)Any way if you knoe the wattage of your systems..lights etc then you can calc amps. If you are high on the meter then you have a ground..start pulling fuses, except the main and any required for the engine/ecu. If the amps drop you at least have a place to start...of course this is all unnecessary if you have found the problem already..good luck
 

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You may want to try some fuel injector cleaner. Maybe the injectors are not spraying as well as they should. I've never used it but I understand Seafoam works good. I use Lucas Fuel conditioner/top end lubricant/injector cleaner, but it doesn't work as fast as apparently Seafoam does for quick cleaning of the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, Seafoam works well. I actually used it like 6 months ago. Like it. I'm actually planning on putting some in again... I came across a couple of posts that say the fuel filter might be a cause (and who knows when the last time it was change) so I'm going to replace that too. I'm still in a hole but the bike is getting better. Not back firing anymore... now it just won't stay on. It stalls :( But I consider this progress!
 

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I would say it was like 3 months ago when I washed her. I keep my bike in the garage all the time.
Because the issue could be related to the ignition sensor... You might wanna check that plug and shake it to see if any water comes out. Just a suggestion, ya never know! ;)

Ohh and my earlier comment about unplugging the voltage regulator? Have you tried that yet? The bike should run perfectly fine with it unplugged and that information is important to have when diagnosing a problem like this. Also, what's the voltage of the battery when the bike is running?



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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the replies! I've tried all of your suggestions and then some. I had the bike running without the voltage regulator on, and the bike ran good. Voltage with the bike on is ~12.5V. I uploaded a new PCIII map and messed around with the CO trim. Bike definitely running better (also sounds healthy again). I have the bike running a little rich on the low rpm side to help combat the stalling issues. (I still think I need to adjust my TPS).

The only issue remaining is the occasional ‘hiccup’ every now and then, making the RPM’s jump a couple up a little. I noticed this as I had the PCIII software running on my laptop and because of a slight increase in the exhaust pitch. The voltage jumps up to around ~13V when it ‘hiccups’. Could this still mean I need a new battery?

Here is what I’ve done so far:
- changed out spark plugs
- cleaned out some connections that had dirt or oxidation on them
- checked the ignition sensor
- checked the rectifier, ran the bike with it connected and without it connected
- checked battery voltages
- put Sea Foam into my tank
- adjusted CO trim
- uploaded a new fuel map to PCIII

Anyways hope everyone had a good weekend, and if you have any other suggestions of what could be causing these ‘hiccups’ please let me know.

THANKS!
 
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