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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
They sound good to me. Low tone, not crazy loud. I've had them for a few years and I'm happy. I'd go high pipes and solo seat but it's handy to have the pillion sometimes.

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive lighting


Another track take off from the 998 installed and the ST4 rear wheel is in. This tire is a bit toasted but it'll do for some test rides this fall.

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting


Getting close
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Plant Vehicle

It's back on the road! Almost one year to the day.

Still got a few things to tidy up, suspension to tune, re-bleed the front brakes, and of course jetting. Weather is getting a bit dodgy but hopefully I'll get a window for some test rides next week.

Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive lighting


Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive lighting

I'll also need to figure out a longer side stand due to the longer shock setting

Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Sky
 

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Looks great.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Thanks. Crankcase filled with gas over night, so there are definitely still some small snags to sort out. It never did that before, i wonder if it has to do with the extreme angle on the stand now.
 

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Stuck float bowl, and yes it is partly due to the angle which is a normal daily angle to have so it must be fixed. Put an inline shutoff for the fuel too.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Stuck float bowl, and yes it is partly due to the angle which is a normal daily angle to have so it must be fixed. Put an inline shutoff for the fuel too.
Yep I've got an in-line shut off, I just never got it the habit of using it because it never was an issue before. I'll extend the side stand as well

Tire Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle fork Hood


O2 sensor bung, also useful to drain half a gallon of gas out of the headers...
 
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On the plus side, the gearbox is cleaned out really good - probably shift better once you get the second oil change done. Take out the plugs and cycle the motor by hand in gear, squirt a bit of Marvels in the cylinders first. Maybe run less than an hour on the first batch of oil, enough to get it hot and burn off the last of the fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
On the plus side, the gearbox is cleaned out really good - probably shift better once you get the second oil change done.
In this case, i had the gearbox in the parts washer before i just put the motor back together, so that benefit is probably not going to be overly noticable. That was 4qt of brand new Mobil 1 in there as well, dang it. On the other hand i was going to change it after a few hundred miles anyway to get all the assembly lube residue out of there.
 

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Thanks. Crankcase filled with gas over night, so there are definitely still some small snags to sort out. It never did that before, i wonder if it has to do with the extreme angle on the stand now.
I recently bought a 900ss with FCRs and was told it's not all that uncommon for them to do that? In any case my bike also has an added fuel shut off (In addition to the stock one on the bottom of the tank) to prevent this.
 

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I have the same issue with side stand length after upgrading the rear suspension. The Superbike stand is longer and I was going to put one on but the micro-switch setup is different. Then I thought of having the current stand lengthened, but the fitting bolts didn't want to budge and I was concerned about cracking the case. In the end I bought a piece of Delrin, hard as a rock, and had it machined about 1 1/2 by 1 inch; 3/4 inch thick. Divot machined into one face for the side stand foot. When stopped I put it under the stand. I store it under the seat or jacket pocket when riding. Admittedly, it's not optimal but it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
I have a left over stand from my 998 i was going to try. By the looks of it, i can't see how it would clear the exhaust header, but we'll see. I spent the last few days working on our old van, tomorrow I'll have time to look at the bike again. Worst case I'll cut the stand off and weld on an extension or something.

By the way, I measured compression while I had the plugs out after the little flooding episode. I got 180 and 190 psi cold (this is with a little oil sprayed in the cylinders due to the gas wash down). Seems ... pretty high?

The Pistals are only supposed to be 11:1, or so i thought. With my old "11:1" FBF pistons i barely got 145psi on the same gauge, granted there were some losses due to the valves. Squish is 1mm or 40 thousands, it was about 1.4mm before.

Cause for concern? Normal?
 

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I have a left over stand from my 998 i was going to try. By the looks of it, i can't see how it would clear the exhaust header, but we'll see. I spent the last few days working on our old van, tomorrow I'll have time to look at the bike again. Worst case I'll cut the stand off and weld on an extension or something.

By the way, I measured compression while I had the plugs out after the little flooding episode. I got 180 and 190 psi cold (this is with a little oil sprayed in the cylinders due to the gas wash down). Seems ... pretty high?

The Pistals are only supposed to be 11:1, or so i thought. With my old "11:1" FBF pistons i barely got 145psi on the same gauge, granted there were some losses due to the valves. Squish is 1mm or 40 thousands, it was about 1.4mm before.

Cause for concern? Normal?
Mine with 944 kit from FBF reads about 175 cold (Mine doesn’t have any fancy squish mods).
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
The superbike stand doesn't fit at all
Hood Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper


So i decided to extend the original side stand.

Automotive tire Bumper Gas Tool Auto part


For this, i unceremoniously circumcised the stand, discovering that it is (as i had hoped) in fact a solid piece of aluminum.
I then made up this extension in the lathe out of a piece of 6061, and TIGd it on the end:
Automotive tire Rim Auto part Gas Bumper


Then bolted the stand back on the bike for a lean angle check, and sawed it off at the right length and angle.
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Flooring


I could grind down the weld bead, but i don't trust my welding skills enough.

Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive lighting Wheel Vehicle


Also made excentric spacers that push the oil cooler a bit further back from the front wheel. Preliminary tests showed that there should be clearance at full travel, but not a lot, so i figure this couldn't hurt. Less risky than trying to move the tabs on the cooler anyway.

Speedometer Odometer Vehicle Motor vehicle Tachometer


Velcroed on my usual MC10 computer for accurate speed in km/h, trip computer, clock, etc.

With that, I'm pretty much done here until the spring. Maybe we'll still get a few warm days in October so i can test ride and mess with the jetting, but at this point it isn't really worth it for me to insure the bike for the fall. By next year i should have the rear Carrozzeria wheel fitted somehow as well. Core moto is trying to find me a sprocket carrier (the design of these wheels changed when Carrozzeria changed ownership). Worst case I'll have to make my own. Then it'll get a proper break in, and probably even a session on track or two. I also still want to Dyno it to maybe optimize the ignition map, but also just to see what it makes.

Thanks everyone for reading and participating anyway, and hopefully some of this can serve as inspiration and/or warning to others!
 

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I love the fuel gauge!
 

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Love these kinda threads with good hi res photos etc - keep it up @Lelebebbel 🤓
 
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·

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Discussion Starter · #97 · (Edited)
It finally stopped raining for 48 hours so I got a temporary plate and did some jetting tests with the LM-2 logger. I have AFR, throttle position, and RPM connected to the box. The RPM signal is apparently too "dirty" with interference so it cuts out above 4000, however i can see that the AFR for the most part seems to follow the throttle position more than anything, with only a minor RPM influence, at least when operating the bike in a realistic manner (i.e. not full throttle at 3000 RPM.)

I started with the 165 main jet, 50 pilot, EMQ needle 4th clip, air screw 2 turns out and fuel screw 1.5 turns. 11°C and sea level.


165m/50p/EMQ4th/Air2.0turns/Fuel1.5turns
0% throttle: 15.8AFR (tricky to keep going)
12% 12.5AFR
25% 14.5
33% 15.0
40% 13.0
50% 11.2 (!!)
75% 12.0 (!)
100% 12.7

So based on Keihins "slide valve carb tuning" pdf, i closed the slow air to 1.5 turns to try and address the lean area around 30%. I also dropped the needle one clip position to 3rd to lean out the 50% to 75% throttle range.
The air screw made the idle even leaner, so i turned up the fuel screw to 2 turns. With that:

165m/50p/EMQ3rd/Air1.5turns/Fuel2.0turns
0% ~ 14.7
12% 12.5-13
25% 14.2
33% 15.5 (!!)
40% 13.6
50% 12.1
75% 12.4
100% 12.7

So dropping the EMQ needle to the 3rd position did lean it out up top as hoped, but unfortunately also around the 30% throttle mark where it was already lean. I then tried closing the air screws to one turn open, result:

165m/50p/EMQ3rd/Air1.0turns/Fuel2.0turns
12% 12.0
25% 14.0
33% 15.3
.. rest unchanged.


So the air screw does not have enough effect at 30-40% throttle, but messes up the "in town cruising" range of 10-20%. Based on this, do I need a different needle? I'm thinking a thinner base than even the EMQ, to make the 30% throttle area richer, but also with less taper, so the bike doesn't get crazy rich at 3/4 throttle?

Either way, riding the bike back to back, and looking at the logs is a very interesting experience.
 
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