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Not a very good one, but you can see how it lifts the cluster to allow more room under it for the guages - in my case it was to move the whole thing back a bit and at a different angle. The brass spacers are threaded. Mine is without a fairing, not naked, but just a round headlight with its surround.

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Ah those brass things are the stock instrument mounts! They just usually sit in rubber bushings, see below. Looks like the previous owner basically repurposed them as spacers.

In my case, lifting the instruments enough to create clearance for the gauge, causes them to interfere with the ignition lock when turning the bars. So i have to move something laterally as well. I took the subframe off and I'll reposition the tabs. It's not like i could do a worse job welding them than Ducati did in 94.

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Some other goodies showed up today as well. I was trying to limit how far out of hand this project can get, but I'm not doing a good job...
 

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Yes, the ignition lock assembly was relocated to inside the frame on the lower left side. I intend to install a wireless system soon.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Would it be a whole lot easier just to put it up on the top LHS like the later models?
I would need a different instrument holder, and i think the SPs with that gauge also had a slightly different windshield to make room up top
 

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1993 900SS
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96 Posts
View attachment 1016152
The idea

View attachment 1016153
The problem with it..

Not sure what i want to do here. I'm considering welding a new stay on the subframe to create the required clearance. Would be a nice excuse to repaint the whole thing anyways.
Alternatively i could have a different instrument holder made. There are clearance issues in any direction though, also i like this gauge placement. Also, a new one would cost money while this one was sent to me for free by another forum member.
Hi, I have an aftermarket three gauge cluster on my 900 SS. The T gauge touches the subframe, but the assembly fits. The original windscreen fits as well.
I will need to double check but believe it is a Stein Dinse part. It is still available.
Cheers,
H.
 

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1993 900SS
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96 Posts
Here is the link to my gauge cluster info.

It turns out to be a SteinDinse aftermarket part. Part # 400119001. Still available for 32.50Eur.

They also sell the oil sensor for 900 SS FE for 16.21; part # 037093180
 
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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Here is the link to my gauge cluster info.
Thanks! I'm already committed to make my existing gauge holder work but I'm sure this could help someone else.

We decided to rip out all the old carpet and the stairs in our house this week, which means that progress on the bike has slowed down a bit. Somehow, the Mrs. feels like having a floor in the house is more important than this bike? Weird.

I did however receive a few goodies in the mail in the mean time

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Oil thermostat. This is an "H" flow pattern, meaning it just creates a bypass for the cooler (without blocking the cooler) that starts to close at 74°C oil temp. Strictly necessary? Probably not, but i will be riding this bike anywhere from 5°C puttering along, to 35°C on track, and i still want it to warm up quickly even with the larger cooler.

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Shindengen FH020AA rectifier kit from roadstercycle. With my new cooler I have to relocated the rectifier a bit and the stock one is too big. Besides, this will future proof the bike, for when I decide to get a lithium battery in 3 weeks time.

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... And an Öhlins Du235.
I wasn't really looking for one, my re-valved 900ie shock in the background works very well. Buuuut you rarely ever find these things for cheap, especially not in almost brand new condition like this. The IE shock measures 337mm center to center, I'm gonna try what another 5mm will do to the handling with this length adjustable shock. May need a softer spring for it.
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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One of the mods i have my mind set on is a bigger oil cooler to make sure engine temps stay in check under all circumstances even with the power mods. I bought a cooler off a later model Multi 1200 i believe for a few bucks

About 30-40% bigger than stock, and fits like a glove. Just needs two proper spacers made and a bracket for the top

Added benefit is that both lines attach on the same side of this cooler, and there is a hole for a pressure or temperature sensor.
A few weeks ago I was at the track with my 1000ss and saw oil temps above 300º F - was a super hot day and I think that was a factor as to why the motor was running so poorly as the day went on. I just picked up one of these oil coolers on eBay and hopefully, I'll be able to get it installed before my next track day, Oct 2.

Did you need to replace the oil lines leading to the cooler or would it be possible to use the stock oil lines with the longer of the two, the one that leads to the left side of the bike, just looped around once or something or should I already be looking for oil lines?

Also, are the fittings compatible or what's the deal there?
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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380 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
I'm using adapter fittings - the cases are M14*1.5 female, and i got adapters to an-6 male on ebay. Then build an-6 lines with fittings and steel braided lines.

This was my setup before this rebuild:
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These an-6 lines were a cheap kit from ebay. Came with lots of fittings and 20ft of line, but the quality is not very good. They held the pressure just fine but the braid is only nylon. I am getting some real name brand AN spec lines from Jegs this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I was finally able to get back to the bike today and finish the electrical system.
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Here is the new regulator, FH020AA, installed with some 3/4" p-clamps on the frame tube. The original location isn't available anymore due to the oversized cooler, but this is arguably better anyway. It's close to the relevant parts of the original loom, as well as right behind the left-hand fairing vent. Not that this MOSFET unit is going to get very warm but it can't hurt.

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My modified front subframe is also a success. I cleaned up, re-wrapped, and re-installed the front wiring loom, adding a few wires for the oil temp gauge.
I guess I could do something more elegant with those two free-floating relays on the right, which are for my separate 10AWG headlight circuitry. I've had it like this since i first got the bike though and it works well.

At this point I would like put some oil in and crank the engine over, maybe even hook up the carbs and try a start. Unfortunately i am still waiting for my AN-6 line kit, so instead I'll do the suspension next and get the bike off the engine stand
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As mentioned, the back is getting an öhlins, so these 900IE fork legs with Andreani separate function cartridges should do nicely on the front end. I got these for a great deal quite a while ago on here, and have been waiting to install them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Also, here is my work sheet for the engine bearings I used. Its not entirely complete but it might be useful anyway
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The 900ie forks have the same upper diameter as the carby forks, but a few differences. First of all, they are 20mm longer up top or so as is obvious in the photo above. With that, it makes sense to install clip-on handlebars above the top triple rather than below it. I got some used woodcraft (?) 50mm for free a while ago for helping a friend fix his Monster S4.
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Handlebar position is essentially the same as before. And yes my original ones were bent, as i just found out.
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Mock up to check cable lengths etc. Fork tubes and clip ons not yet in final position. Throttle cables may be too short though, dang it.

On the bottom end, the IE forks use a 25mm axle as opposed to 20mm. Conveniently my new Carrozzeria forged wheel is also 25mm.
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And 4lbs lighter than the OEM boat anchor.

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I have a tire changing machine from Max2h in Germany. Really nice not to have to drop wheels off at a shop to get tires changed. I took off the ancient pirellis that came on the wheels and putting on some pre-scrubbed Michelin Powers track take offs from my 998.

Of course, with the 25mm axle the original speedo drive won't fit any more. Luckily I also have the left over speedo drive from the track only 998.
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The 998 drive has the correct diameter but the wrong gear ratio, it spins some 40% faster than the 900ss speedo. The internals are compatible, so i took both apart, cleaned them up and swapped the gears over.

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The last pieces for the conversion are the fender and the brake calipers. The latter require 65mm instead of the old 40mm bolt spacing. Again i have some calipers from my 998, which i converted to the superior 999 brakes last year. These, with some new pads, will work just fine for street and occasional track use though, especially since this bike should be a fair bit lighter and slower than the 998.
I also bought a new carbon fender.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
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K-bike clutch with Newfren alloy plates installed

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Carbs and battery box installed for a wiring harness dress rehearsal. I got everything right except I made the loom for the TPS about 3 inches too short. Oh well.

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Currently i am trying to figure out the fuel lines. I really don't like how they come off the tank, do a 180 that is bound to get pinched, and then squeeze through between head and frame before converging to a single line. Has anyone tried to at least place the Y before the head-frame choke point, and run a single line from there to the carb? Is there a theoretical problem with placing the Y further upstream along the line?
 

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You can try running the fuel line(s) between the head and the belts - behind the belts. This is more of a straight line shot from the tank. No good reason you can't put the Y before the head, and run one hose toward the carbs, but having the long Y hoses does put more fuel in the stream ready for a hard throttle pull at full lean angle in case the pump starts sucking air.

I put a filter (and a shut off valve) then on the carb side of the head, so the fuel filter acts as the extra buffer of fuel supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
In the interest of finishing this bike before the inevitable heat death of the universe, i decided to leave the fuel lines alone after all.

I re-jetted the carbs in preparation for the first start. Taking a wild guess, I went with 165 main jets, EMQ needles (4th clip from the top), 55 pilot jets, air and fuel 1.5 turns open each.
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Obviously since i changed .. everything, this will need to be tested to verify correct fueling. Following the DIYers motto "why pay someone $200 for a job i can do myself for free? (after spending $600 on tools)", i bought an LM-2 air fuel logger. On the other hand i then had a local welding shop install an M18 O2 sensor bung on the horizontal header, in place of the original small bung. Didn't trust my own Tig skills for that quite yet.
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I wired in some test ports on the TPS, as well as the coils to gather RPM data. This will hopefully allow me to get a meaningful log of AFR vs throttle position vs RPM
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AN6 lines showed up today. "I'm looking forward to assembling some AN steel braided lines", said no one, ever.

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Oil thermostat fits nicely above the head but it does complicate the oil lines a bit.

It occured to me that the cooler may be too close to the front wheel, and that i may have to move the lower attachment points so it will clear at full travel. I'll have to check when the bike is on its wheels.

I'll fill it with oil later and turn it over for a leak/oil pressure check. Then the bike can come off the engine stand, which means the exhaust can go on, and i should be ready for a start.
 
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