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It can be used in a lot of situations where you would not want to use abrasive and chance of causing any damage is practically nil.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
I have one or two more updates until these ramblings will catch up to the present state of the bike.

Eventually the remaining seals and bearings showed up from Ducati, and i was able to press them in, using a home made hydraulic press, and a combination of the old bearing races, as well as various sockets as press tools.

1015198

Here our cat is doing a quick quality control check before the cases are mated up again for the first time.

The crankshaft, as well as both gearbox shafts and the shift drum, have to have specific amounts of preload or clearance when the cases are assembled. They all use various size shims to achieve these values, and since my engine is old, and since i am using threebond instead of the original gasket in between the case halves (this has been the recommendation for a while now), i had to expect having to re-shim all of them.

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The crankshaft requires bearing preload, and there are at least two different ways to measure and shim it correctly. I assembled it without shims, torqued the case bolts, and then measured the free play in the crankshaft with dial gauge. Then split the cases again, and added shims to take up the free play, plus 0.15mm of preload. I got lucky that i could do this without having to order any shims, i simply removed 0.35mm worth of shims from the existing set. I could not figure out an easy way to check if the rods are perfectly centered in the bore now, but i replicated the stock setup so they can't be far off.

The gearbox shafts and shift drum also each required 0.2 to 0.4mm less shimming to get in spec, which makes me confident that i did everything correctly, and that the stock gasket was about 0.3mm thick when installed. I was able to make it all work by just swapping and removing shims without having to order anything, that's pure luck though.
For the record, i went with 0.15mm crank preload, 0.1mm clearance on both gearbox shafts (the clutch one actually ended up with 0.2mm), and 0.35mm clearance for the shift drum.

Before splitting the cases for the final time, i threw the shift linkage on to make sure I can get all 6 gears.

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Cases populated and ready to be sealed.

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We're back on the engine stand. Progress. Oil pump and primary gear back on, pistons and modified cylinders installed. Yes, i reused the washer for the primary nut, but i got new locknuts for the belt pulleys.

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The first thing that needed to be checked at this stage is squish clearance. I put some clay on all 4 compass points of each piston, put the heads back on, and turned the engine over by hand. Then heads off, and measure the remaining thickness of the clay.
I had about 1.4mm squish or so before this whole rebuild, with a 0.4mm cylinder base shim (in my experience, these really are just shims, not gaskets). My goal for this was 1.0mm, or 40 thou, for those watching in NTSC.

So based on that, i took a guess and left out the base shims for the first try. And the result, despite the new pistons and cylinders, was 1.0mm, plus or minus 0.05. Excellent, the lack of base shims will hopefully make the bases seal better as well with just one layer of threebond.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Note, i have a spreadsheet with all the bearings and most of the seals i used for this rebuild. That information took me a while to compile so hopefully this can save someone else some time.
I includes every bearing on the motor, except a couple of the roller bearings that are sandwiched on the shafts, that I missed and therefore reused.
I'm away from my computer at work, so if i remember I'll try to attach this to the thread when I get home next week.
 
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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Next step, all the stuff under the left and right engine covers had to be reinstalled. I also have a new starter motor, because my OEM one ate one of its brushes and scored the hell out of the commutator.

1015268

Looking at this photo, I may have missed a washer under the starter bolt?

This is when I moved the engine back onto the bike lift. Once more stuff goes on it does become quite hard to handle.

If this was just a restauration, i would at this stage seal the cylinder bases, and put on the heads for the final time. However, since i have new cams, valves, pistons, reduced squish, AND since i am planning to advance the cams a few degrees compared to stock, it seemed like a good idea to check piston to valve clearance...

For this, i had to first assemble the engine with belts and all, to phase or "degree" the camshafts to the desired specs. I used a piston stop made out of a spark plug to set my degree wheel to TDC. The stock markings on the flywheel are dead on in my case as well.

1015267

Dodgy knock-off indicator holder clamped to the engine. K-bike engine turning tool and degree wheel is a huge improvement over my previous diy engine turner.

Gauge Motor vehicle Laptop Gas Automotive tire

Measuring at 1mm or 40 thousands valve lift.
Feeler gauge to take up the valve clearance that i had set previously on the bench

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Old photo of the adjustment on the pulleys.

Due to the dodginess of my indicator holder, i repeated and cross checked my measurements many times. Surprisingly the setup is actually accurate. A more solid bolt on mount for the indicator on the head would definitely be better though. And I'm buying a real Noga as soon as I find a deal on one.

I set the lobe centers to 108°, which is advanced compared to stock, but not crazy. My understanding is that advancing the cams mainly increases cylinder pressures at mid or low rpm. I suspect that with the high compression, low squish, and the 3D ignition map, i have no need to push this area too much. Ideally i would have to spend many hours on a dyno to play with all this, as Eric and Brad have done, but i don't have a dyno at home, so i probably won't.


With the cams set, i now had to pull the heads back off the bike and put some clay in the valve pockets. Then re-install the heads and belts once again and turn the engine over.
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Here is the result of that whole process. Somewhere around 3-4mm valve clearance, which is plenty, according to some random forum post on the internet anyway.

There is another way to check the clearance but it involves more guessing. You can turn the engine to within 15° of TDC or so, and then rotate the cam by hand with a dial indicator on the valve. That will measure how far the valve can open before hitting the piston. Since i don't actually know for sure where in the rotation the valve comes closest to the piston (10°? 15°?) I did the clay thing. I get better at putting these heads on and off every time anyway.


Now it was finally time to threebond the cylinder bases, put the heads on for hopefully the final time, tension the belts to spec, and the engine is ready. I think

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I'm using Dayco belts this time. No particular reason. The clutch is a non-slipper all aluminum K-bike unit and several pounds lighter than stock.

That's pretty much where I'm at for now. Next will be some wiring, fuel lines, oil cooler mounting, and a new battery / coil holder that i still have to build.
Finally i also have some further chassis upgrades, but more on that when I'm home next week.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I got back home yesterday and I'm back to working on the bike as much as I can. I still have hopes of getting this rideable before they start salting the roads here in BC.
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Frame back on the engine

One of the mods i have my mind set on is a bigger oil cooler to make sure engine temps stay in check under all circumstances even with the power mods. I bought a cooler off a later model Multi 1200 i believe for a few bucks

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About 30-40% bigger than stock, and fits like a glove. Just needs two proper spacers made and a bracket for the top
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Added benefit is that both lines attach on the same side of this cooler, and there is a hole for a pressure or temperature sensor.

Next up is the battery and ignition coil mounting tray
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Cardboard Aided Design
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I changed jobs and lost access to the sheet metal brake, so i had to crudely beat this into shape on the vise. On the other hand, i now have an AC/DC Tig welder
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Yuck. Luckily I also have a grinder and a flap disc....

1015685


The tray mounts on the two rear airbox mounting points and is rock solid. I may paint it black one day.

Now that everything has its place, i can start working on wiring next.
 

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Nice work. Incidentally, have you tried programming the TCIP4 with the engine running and it being that close to the coils? I'm currently having problems at the moment that seem to be overcome by moving the TCIP4 further away from the coils.
 

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Nice work on the metal fab, particularly the aluminum bracket for the oil cooler. I know it looks simple, but having done similar work, that took some thinnin'. I've had success with KOSO guages. To run an oil temp guage, you need one of their m10x1.0 senders, hooked up to one of their gauges. You can see it just aft of the 848 cooler on my project.
1015698
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Nice work. Incidentally, have you tried programming the TCIP4 with the engine running and it being that close to the coils? I'm currently having problems at the moment that seem to be overcome by moving the TCIP4 further away from the coils.
I have not, but i was actually thinking about this yesterday. What problems are you seeing? Is it physical proximity of the box, or proximity via short wires that seems to be the issue?

The position isn't finalized, but it would fit rather nicely in the battery tray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I've had success with KOSO guages. To run an oil temp guage, you need one of their m10x1.0 senders, hooked up to one of their gauges. You can see it just aft of the 848 cooler on my project.
Thanks. I've got a STACK temp gauge and sender coming. I'll also be fitting a thermostatic bypass for the cooler.
 

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Nice work. Incidentally, have you tried programming the TCIP4 with the engine running and it being that close to the coils? I'm currently having problems at the moment that seem to be overcome by moving the TCIP4 further away from the coils.
My TCIP4 sits right next to the coils, on the back of the airbox - no problems.
What did make a noticeable difference was to run the pickup wires as far away as possible - in my case round the back of the battery.
Maybe this might help?

Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
 

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I have not, but i was actually thinking about this yesterday. What problems are you seeing? Is it physical proximity of the box, or proximity via short wires that seems to be the issue?

The position isn't finalized, but it would fit rather nicely in the battery tray.
My TCIP4 sits right next to the coils, on the back of the airbox - no problems.
What did make a noticeable difference was to run the pickup wires as far away as possible - in my case round the back of the battery.
Maybe this might help?

Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
Thanks for the comments. I don't want to hijack the thread so I'll be brief. I have 2 TCIP4s on 2 different SS 900s. The TCIP4s appear to run fine until I plug the comms cable in (don't even need the laptop). As soon as I plug the comms cable in, the engine starts to run rough and misfire the spark plugs. Remove the comms cable and all returns to good. I've rerouted the pickup cables away from the high voltage spark plug leads. When I connect the comms cable I run it well away from the pickup cables and spark plug leads. The comms cable came from IgniTech so I'm confident it should be OK, however I've got a new one coming.

On one bike, the TCIP4 is mounted beside the battery, similar to Lelebebbel's photo above. It is an older v88 unit and has Nology 0.6 Ohm coils fitted in the standard position. This TCIP4 appears to be much more heavily impacted by plugging in the comms cable. If I move the TCIP4 away from the coils with the comms cable connected, performance improves but it still is a little rough.

On the other bike, the TCIP4 is mounted up under the seat. It it a newer v96 unit and currently using standard Ducati coils. When I plug in the comms cable, I can hear the bike idle change. With a timing light I can see that there is periodically no signal along the sparkplug leads, hence no spark and it it "drops" a cycle. Unplug the comms cable and all returns fine.

IgniTech do not have English as a first language, so it is hard for them. However they strongly suggest EMF inference. I run NGK racing spark plug leads with resistor caps and non-resistor spark plugs on both bikes. I've got a set of non-resistor plug leads coming to try these with resistor plugs.

I'll try the new IgniTech comms cable and see how that goes.

Thanks for any advice and apologies for side-tracking and excellent thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Thanks for the comments. I don't want to hijack the thread so I'll be brief.
This is excellent information and all very relevant to where i am right now. I am changing the coil and pickup plugs to these sealed connectors
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... And i was planning to shorten the ignitech harness when installing the female ends, so i need to make a decision regarding the position of everything. Sounds like you only experience issues when plugged into a computer then?
I have resistor plugs, but in my previous configuration the ignitech was way back in the tail.


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I took the main loom off the frame today in order to re-run some wires and connectors that i had previously patched. Also need to add the wire for the oil temperature sensor, that will hopefully show up any day now. I will re-wrap it with Tesa harness tape.
 

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Yeah I´m interested in this too - how durable is a vapour blasted finish with no further treatment??
"Vapor hone" and "glass bead" are very different (even though they use the same media) that the vapor hone is a wet process that peens the surface sealing the metal if done correctly. The water cushions the impact of the bead keeping it from shattering and roughing up the surface. Check out Arnold Design on the web. He has done all of my parts and they are beautiful and stay clean with a wash and some mild wheel cleaner. Dry glass bead will not be as sealed of a finish and will attract dirt easily. FWIW
 

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This is excellent information and all very relevant to where i am right now. I am changing the coil and pickup plugs to these sealed connectors

... And i was planning to shorten the ignitech harness when installing the female ends, so i need to make a decision regarding the position of everything. Sounds like you only experience issues when plugged into a computer then?
I have resistor plugs, but in my previous configuration the ignitech was way back in the tail.

I took the main loom off the frame today in order to re-run some wires and connectors that i had previously patched. Also need to add the wire for the oil temperature sensor, that will hopefully show up any day now. I will re-wrap it with Tesa harness tape.
I received the new Ignitech comms cable yesterday and hope to make some progress on identify the issue this weekend and will let you know. Fantastic delivery service from Ignitech in the Czech Republic to Australia.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Land vehicle Vehicle Speedometer Gauge Measuring instrument

The idea

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design Tire

The problem with it..

Not sure what i want to do here. I'm considering welding a new stay on the subframe to create the required clearance. Would be a nice excuse to repaint the whole thing anyways.
Alternatively i could have a different instrument holder made. There are clearance issues in any direction though, also i like this gauge placement. Also, a new one would cost money while this one was sent to me for free by another forum member.
 

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The PO on my bike made a neat little bracket to get the clearance needed out of thin brass plate. Mounts in the same way, just at a different angle and closer to the top triple clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
The PO on my bike made a neat little bracket to get the clearance needed out of thin brass plate. Mounts in the same way, just at a different angle and closer to the top triple clamp.
Yes the two options i am considering now are to
either make a new bracket for the gauge
Potentially by cutting the one that i have like so
Vehicle Gauge Speedometer Measuring instrument Material property

That way the oil temp gauge could be mounted higher, or even at the top like on the SP models.

Alternatively, i could cut off the 3 tabs that hold the whole instrument assembly to the subframe, and weld them back on approximately 20mm further to the left, to shift the whole panel over.

I am leaning towards the second option because i think it would look a bit nicer, and I like the idea of moving the tachometer more towards the middle. Downside is that i have to take all the crap off the front subframe, upside is that I'll be forced to finally paint it
 

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My guages were left as it was, and his bracket used the same three original tabs to mount to the subframe. His piece fits in between the three tabs and the subframe. Easy to go back to stock. I did have to screw around with getting a proper length tach cable tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Oh maybe i can't quite picture how that works, do you have a photo?
 
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