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Subbed, this is good shit, keep up the reporting & the porn photos!
 

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My 1100HM had almost 2 ounces removed from the crank when it was balanced I thought the bike felt pretty smooth stock but now it's really smooth I also cut 4.5 lbs off the flywheel while I was inside
 

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Great post.Im curious after you vapour blasted your crankcases did you paint or leave bare.
Yeah I´m interested in this too - how durable is a vapour blasted finish with no further treatment??
 

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Not very. They stain easily. Looks good but it doesn’t last.
 

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1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Great post.Im curious after you vapour blasted your crankcases did you paint or leave bare.
I had this discussion with a number of people, including the guy who blasted it. Opinions are somewhat split on it, but he was strongly in favor of leaving it bare. He showed me his 750 Suzuki triple that he did 3 or 4 years ago, and i couldn't find a spot of corrosion on it. He just used ACF-50.

I considered alternatives like engine enamel out of a can, cerakote, powder coat, clear coat... Everything has up- and downsides.

I'm leaving it bare with just a regular spray of ACF, and see how that goes. The ST cylinders still have the original black paint in good shape.

For what it's worth, this is going to be my main street bike again, but i try not to ride it in the wet, and i put it away the moment they start salting the roads in the fall.
 
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...he was strongly in favor of leaving it bare. ...He just used ACF-50.
I'll buy that.
I was thihnking of a vapour blast then anodise but as ally tends to naturally anodise itself, albeit much thinner softer coating, and the blasting process is almost a peening as well as a pose to a rough dry blast it sounds good to me;)
 
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Nothing wrong with leaving it bare but the paint will adhere better now than it will after it gets dirty again. Otherwise, why would the factory not save the expense and leave them bare to begin with ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Nothing wrong with leaving it bare but the paint will adhere better now than it will after it gets dirty again. Otherwise, why would the factory not save the expense and leave them bare to begin with ?
The vapour blasted finish is quite different to the bare cast finish out of the mold, that the factory would have produced. The surface is far more compacted. It looks and feels a bit like shot peened, but not the same. According to those in favor of leaving it bare, that's what makes it more corrosion resistant in comparison. Bit like the polished castings on many bikes of the olden days i guess? Apparently there is also a corrosion inhibitor in the solution that is used for the blasting process.

I'm about to find out how much all of this is worth..
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
1014841


Due to the order in which my bearings and seals arrived (72 hours for what i ordered from a bearing shop in the UK, vs. over 4 months total for what i ordered through my Ducati dealer...) I was first able to assemble the heads.

1014844

The pulleys aren't bolted on in this photo, hence the lack of belt covers. Also I swear the work bench is cleaner than it looks. Keeping dirt out of the build is a challenge working in a garage, but i tried to wipe and vacuum everything before starting every day.

The 8J camshafts are a straight swap, apparently you are just likely to need slightly bigger closer- and thinner opening shims than with the stock carby cams. Since i have new valve seats and valves, i can't really confirm this, all i know that my shims ended up in the middle of my EMS shim kit - vs. all the way at the far end, where i was with the old valve seats.


1014843

This is an older photo of a valve adjustment before the rebuild, but maybe not everyone knows this little trick. It certainly took me way too long to learn. Wrap a 1/4" extension or similar in heat shrink, and stick it into the head where shown. This will depress the closing rocker and take the spring pressure off the valve. Makes it easy to get the closing shims in and out.
 

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I use that trick but I stick my holder (Phillips screwdriver or Allen key) in from the other side of the head so there's nothing in the way on the side I'm working on. I don't see how you could possibly put the shim and the half rings back in if you don't do this.
 
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Excellent project!

I too am quite interested in the vapor (vapour for rest of world) blasting. I've got a 1000ss that spent most of its life in Florida and has quite a bit of corrosion on the motor - rest of the bike looks really nice and it's just such an eyesore!

In particular, I'd like to know if this process could be done with the motor out of the bike but not disassembled?

My motor only has 6k miles on it and there's really no reason for me to start splitting things to create more work than is necessary. If I could drop the motor, plug all the holes and have this done, I'd seriously consider this for a winter project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I use that trick but I stick my holder (Phillips screwdriver or Allen key) in from the other side of the head so there's nothing in the way on the side I'm working on. I don't see how you could possibly put the shim and the half rings back in if you don't do this.
The photo is a bit deceiving, there is lots of room, but yeah it can go in either way.

In particular, I'd like to know if this process could be done with the motor out of the bike but not disassembled?
My understanding is that the part ends up pretty well submerged in the liquid that it is blasted with, so i doubt that you could seal up the motor adequately for it not to take on water. That might be a question to ask a vapour blasting place though. There are apparently a few different methods and liquids around, all under the one name "vapour blasting", so you may get a different answer than me
 

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I blast my own stuff using “ conditioned “ blast media. Silica, glass bead, walnut shell mix. In other words, its been used before , so the particles are broken down and rounded. It leaves a finer finish than sand blasting would.
 

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I've seen video of dry ice blasting of Porsche engines and suspension while still in the car. It cleans up stuff so it looks like new. That might be something that should be able to be done without engine disassembly. No liquids involved or abrasives except the CO2 that just evaporates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I had seen a similar video of dry ice blasting an engine out of the car and figured this was the same thing.
This shows the process i went for:

That's not the actual place that did mine, but it's the same process and probably the same brand machine. There is a lot of liquid involved.
 

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Great thread, thank you for taking the time to post all of this.
Threads like this really make this site!
 

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Ok, you've used a completely different process than we were thinking. I found the video of the Porsche CO2 blast -


It looks to me like it would be pretty much no problem to do the CO2 blast on an assembled motor.
 

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p.s. - having watched more of the video, it looks like the CO2 process cleans really well but I'm not so sure it will remove Al corrosion like media blasting. I looked online and there's a few places around me that have these machines so I'll probably take my bike out there at some point to see if they think it will clean up those spots.
 
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