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Discussion Starter #61
h should give the slightly deeper gear reduction I'm after. I have a TD coming up in August and I'm excited to finally get this out on track. I'm wondering if I should make the swap to rearsets now rather than grind peg and have a lousy time later.
The 180/60 will be taller so that should give you more ground clearance straight away.

Dave
I'm torn since I want to preserve the all-day comfort the OEM rearsets provide (I haven't seen a set of aftermarket rearsets that offer the same position as the OEM ones) but I loathe not being able to use my pitbull jackstands with this bike and I don't like all of the slop in the brake pedal and shifter.
 

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Which rear sprocket is that?

Also where did you get the carbon tank guards?
 

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I’ve got woodcrafts on mine. They are typical woodcraft- excellent quality. They do raise the pegs a bit, but not to a ridiculous height. I’m still plenty comfy on 300 mile days. The peg height is far from the limiting factor on long distance comfort. The seat and the wind blast are for me.

A couple things to consider- this will eliminate passenger pegs and you will need to get a pressure switch for the rear brake if you want the rear brake to still activate the brake light.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I’ve got woodcrafts on mine. They are typical woodcraft- excellent quality. They do raise the pegs a bit, but not to a ridiculous height. I’m still plenty comfy on 300 mile days. The peg height is far from the limiting factor on long distance comfort. The seat and the wind blast are for me.

A couple things to consider- this will eliminate passenger pegs and you will need to get a pressure switch for the rear brake if you want the rear brake to still activate the brake light.
I actually have a set of Rizoma passenger pegs I picked up off of a member here. I have yet to mount or use them though.
I have been considering a set Robby Moto rearsets since they have all of the features I prefer (roller bearing pivots external to the pegshaft)

 

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Discussion Starter #68
Got my Q4s mounted up. The rear is a 180/60 and is an impressively large beast. These are exceptionally sticky and not a tire you want to run in the rain!

 

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I have been contemplating switching back to my woodcraft set. I am currently running the NCR set that retains the stock position. I can shoot you some Pics of them. Also, I am a big fan of everything you've done on this bike. Never thought to add a gear indicator. Which one do you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #72 (Edited)
I'm going to be swapping to braketech 320mm ductile iron rotors and robbymoto rearsets. I bought these 330s used just to see if it would work and I've discovered one or both of them are warped.
I also picked up a spare set of cylinders to be bored/honed once I decide on pistons. I've been speaking with a rep at wiseco and he said they have several part numbers that he needs to decipher before recommending a set. I know you will all scream for Pistals but we'll see. I've been a fan of the anti-scuff skirt coating wiseco has started to use and their forged strength will be needed in a long-stroke, big-bore motor!
 

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'06 S2R 1100 Custom, '12 SF 1040
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How big are you going with the bore?

A bike that light is going to be extremely fun!

Also, if I were you, depending on how much you weigh, I would think about dropping to a single 330mm rotor setup in the front. It’ll save well over 5 pounds of unsprung rotating mass, and should be fine on a bike approaching 300lbs.

Can’t say I recommend it due to safety concerns, but I did it on my lightweight ds1100 with a fully floating rotor and it will still lock the front up.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Just 100mm slugs. I have been told they are nearly the same weight as the OEM pistons which makes for less work down the line.
 
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