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Discussion Starter #1
Here what did, took the bike apart to do 30000km valve shim job ,2016 multi 1200, put new belts new plugs,new air filter I’m quite confident I got the cams and crank all back together properly aligned but I’m questioning my work. The bike will not start, I hear the fuel pump working, I pulled the Both plugs on horz cyl and tested it for spark and get a strong spark. I did the same on the vert cyl but only removed one spark plug and left the other connected not thinking but when turn over got a back fire, not sure if it was from the exhaust or out the spark plug hole. All fuses I can find are ok, relays are ok, the bike was running fine when I started this project now it just turns over without any sign of starting. Any ideas what to check? Thanks
 

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Gnm62Que: Did you use the shop manual for setting the timing and lock the cams, crankshaft and belt layshaft with the special tools? The DVT adds a whole layer of complicated Ducati fun to this job. I've not done it as my bike is new but I've compared the procedure in the manual with YouTube videos of timing jobs on non DVT motors and it's not the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I basically followed you tube videos. I’m pretty sure I got every thing lined up the same at tdc, I marked everything before disassembly and put it all back together the same. I will have to recheck the manual because that’s the only thing I think could be wrong is it’s off slightly. The backfire I had was when I had one plug out checking the spark and I left the other plug in , must have ignition some fuel in the cylinder, was really a backfire more of a loud pop.
 

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A loud pop is a backfire. Text book symptom of cam timing off. As well as having everything lined up as per the service manual, the same number of belt teeth need to be between marks. What me seem lined up can change when tensioners are set
 

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The backfire with one plug out is normal you ignited some fuel.

Have you done all the work with the crank at the same place or you turned engine?

Because the dvt timing pulleys are larger on the cams then on the drive pulley, the mark on this pulley doesn't fall at the same place every two rotations of the crank. So you may have fucked the crank position sensor reading. If you are one full crank rotation appart the spark will not happen at the right time. In between you can damage the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks , after reading the replies I took a better look at the shop manual, I had the cam timing off slightly. Lined dot on crank pulley with mark on case with horz cyl at tdc lined dots on cam pulleys with the engine case. Fired up and seems to be running good , still have the cover off the air filter box so should be fine when all buttons up. Question,, the cam position sensor should send a signal to spark at home of horizontal tdc then at 270 deg when at vertical tdc? Actually how do you check if the tdc is on compression or exhaust with respect to the cps? Was I just lucky that i got it set up properly and it runs and didn’t make a big f*** up? Each cylinder should only fire every 2 rotations? I have a tendance to jump into a project armed with some research and realize maybe it wasn’t the best thing to do but oh well nothing has blown up yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so everything is not good, put in air filter , adjusted belts. Starts up but seems to take an extra revolution before starting as than before , idles fine but check engine light came on and when reving there is a small back fire from the pipes. You think I’m off a tooth with the timing? Also that lay shaft holding tool, I don’t have, will only line up when horizontal cylinder is at tdc of compression/power cycle how is the exhaust/intake tdc différent when the dot on the gear lines up with the mark on the engine case? Or does this dot necessarily line up exactly?
 

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This thread has eliminated any desire for me to do any jobs aside from oil/brakes on my DVT. It's just too complicated a motor for a layman to open. Ducati mechanics literally go to school and seminars to learn latest and best practices about the latest models. They can have my money.
 

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I started a DVT thread last week....I talked with a Ducati mechanic, he's been to the Ducati factory in Italy, to learn how to service a DS RR and he said that working on a DVT is a 'nightmare'! He's still trying to figure out how much to charge, as even when its back together 'correctly', your not sure. And he's been working on Ducati's for 10+ years!
 

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Thanks , after reading the replies I took a better look at the shop manual, I had the cam timing off slightly. Lined dot on crank pulley with mark on case with horz cyl at tdc lined dots on cam pulleys with the engine case.
No you can't assume this is the right spot like the non-dvt engine. I suggest you stop messing with it before a valve/piston contact. A Ducati tech will need the diagnostics to find the right spot again.

The mark on the crank pulley line up with the case at horizontal tdc once every 27 revolutions if I remember correctly.
 

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I can't understand why supposedly experienced mechanics are so intimidated by the DVT. It's a belt driven DOHC engine just like any other. Yes it has desmodromic valve actuation but this is nothing new to Duc mechanics. The DVT cam phasers are irrelevant as far as belt changes and valve clearance shimming. A few special tools and locking procedures are nothing new. You could remove the belts and spin the crank and cams to your hearts content. Realigning is a simple matter of getting the right piston at top dead center and lining up your marks. There's no magic here. Sure it can be a chore getting to the valve covers but that's just grunt work.
Any ducati trained mechanic who does a valve shim and belt change and is still "not sure" needs to find another trade, that's unacceptable.
 

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No you can't assume this is the right spot like the non-dvt engine. I suggest you stop messing with it before a valve/piston contact. A Ducati tech will need the diagnostics to find the right spot again.

The mark on the crank pulley line up with the case at horizontal tdc once every 27 revolutions if I remember correctly.
Only if you have a mark on the belt and the corresponding tooth on the pulley, those will need many turns before coming around to line up again. Once you remove the belt that scenario is gone.
 

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Ok so everything is not good, put in air filter , adjusted belts. Starts up but seems to take an extra revolution before starting as than before , idles fine but check engine light came on and when reving there is a small back fire from the pipes. You think I’m off a tooth with the timing? Also that lay shaft holding tool, I don’t have, will only line up when horizontal cylinder is at tdc of compression/power cycle how is the exhaust/intake tdc différent when the dot on the gear lines up with the mark on the engine case? Or does this dot necessarily line up exactly?
There is really no set number of revolutions before the engine will start. Multistrada dvt has always seemed a bit lazy and taken a few turns. (Hypermotard seems instantaneous). Multis do have a bit of popping on deceleration, even when just reving. Can't say if you're still off a tooth, but if it just doesn't sound the same as before then re-checking is your next step. At least once it's sorted you'll be considered 'experienced"
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This is turning out to be not so straight forward as it shows in the manual. If I had rotated the crank when I did the valve shims ,to prevent the valves from falling in, is there only one of two rotations that is the proper tdc? I’m thinking I need the tdc and also the cps at the sensing position to fire the plug. When I look in the inspection hole for the cps I see regular spaced teeth on the flywheel but one section about one tooth missing width. Is this wide section when it gets the signal to fire the plug? If this is true is there another wide section to tell the vertical cylinder to fire? I have tried lining up the crank at the tdc mark a few times and checked the cps for the wide spot but never seems to line up. Maybe my logic is wrong and hopefully someone can educate me. Some say it impossible to do this job on the dvt without special tools, trading and the dds machine but the manual shows it to be not to difficult but I think the manual is missing some important information.
 

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I don't know the procedure on this particular model, but nothing is impossible. Just don't alter anything until you're sure it's not right.. If the bike is starting and idling nicely (I gather you can't ride on the roads yet) it may be just fine. Ducati service manuals are written for trained ducati mechanics. They make little sense to every one else. At some point you'll have to either take it out for a test ride or make friends with Duc mech.
 
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