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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am frustrated! I am tired of this wobbling...I am starting this post because I have some thoughts but due to money restriction , choice must be wise. So I want advice from the experience riders out there.
First of all I decide to change tyres! If the problem is still the same I will go at a suspension specialist and change the fron fork springs! I saw that andreani group has a kit for multis 1200s.
I have tried everything before, with no result! So... whats your opinion on this? If the bike still has the same problem I will sell it. I am very disappointed. Some people say fit a stabilizer while some others say don't...either way if it gonna cost me the whole thing 2000 again...no way man...
 

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I am frustrated! I am tired of this wobbling...I am starting this post because I have some thoughts but due to money restriction , choice must be wise. So I want advice from the experience riders out there.

First of all I decide to change tyres! If the problem is still the same I will go at a suspension specialist and change the fron fork springs! I saw that andreani group has a kit for multis 1200s.

I have tried everything before, with no result! So... whats your opinion on this? If the bike still has the same problem I will sell it. I am very disappointed. Some people say fit a stabilizer while some others say don't...either way if it gonna cost me the whole thing 2000 again...no way man...


I had the same problem on my 2016 DVT. after a lot of fettling, I found that stiffening up the rear preload helped. Have hit 260km/h and still felt relatively stable compared to before. It’s not a sports bike so I am not expecting rock solid performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When is it wobbling? What speed and conditions?


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After 180 km starts to wobble. On every road. With no luggage! Have the 13 s Tiuring with high wind shield. Tried every possible tweak on suspensions but nothing .. rebalanced the wheels... there I’ve got some improvement. Tried different Tyre pressure. Still nothing. I have PR4s. I can’t open the throttle full, after 180-200 km bike wobbles a lot! Went to Ducati dealer twice! Tried another Ducati dealer. Both said bike is fine and to tweak the suspension. These guys seem to me they don’t want to help.


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No wobble on my 2010s

I've been following the previous thread and this one. New rider here with a mint 2010 S Touring. It only had 1840 miles on it when I got it a few months ago so I had to replace the tires and just upgraded to the Scorpion Trail 2. They have been great, very stable and planted.

Note the panniers have a label on them that advises to not exceed 180km (or 112mph) with them or a top box on. I put on the larger Puig touring windscreen too which I feel is not good in the raised position above about that speed.

That said I have not noticed a wobble. I've pushed it up to 130 a few times and back off realizing the speed is too fast for the accessories. But the bike wants to go! I feel it is very solid at high speed and the only limiting factor is my skill and confidence and the fact that it is an upright long suspension wide handlebar bike that is probably not ideally suited in that configuration for racing speeds in excess of 110, 120, 130ish. It wants to go, but I think I should recognize the limits and am not about to wind it out beyond that without seeing up for racing. But I am not feeling a wobble inherent in the bike.
 

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Suspension

I also had the preload setup by the dealer with me on the bike. We set the front all the way down and out 2 turns with the stock springs. Rear at 10-16 based on mode.

I put in the Ohlins SCU and that seemed to help quite a bit over my settings. I am mostly riding in touring mode which is the middle setting for the Ohlins and that results in a pretty plush ride. I like the sport mode throttle better, but the Ohlins SCU with sport throttle setting is stiffer and a bit sharp I find for daily riding. I can feel a big difference in the way the bike feels smooth through bumps compared to my manual settings. It just seems to do what it is supposed to riding through irregularities. Very confident and predictable. Before the SCU I couldn't seem to get it set what I felt was right. I've always had this problem setting my own suspension, make small adjustments, but just never satisfied for all conditions. The SCU seems to give a good overall setting that always works.
 

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I am frustrated! I am tired of this wobbling...I am starting this post because I have some thoughts but due to money restriction , choice must be wise. So I want advice from the experience riders out there.
First of all I decide to change tyres! If the problem is still the same I will go at a suspension specialist and change the fron fork springs! I saw that andreani group has a kit for multis 1200s.
I have tried everything before, with no result! So... whats your opinion on this? If the bike still has the same problem I will sell it. I am very disappointed. Some people say fit a stabilizer while some others say don't...either way if it gonna cost me the whole thing 2000 again...no way man...
My 15 MTS has just recently started this, came out of a corner pinning it and almost got an out of control Wobble... Scary as hell! I have noticed recently quite a jerking motion on the handle bars when breaking with front brake, quite a notchy feel, and not break disk warping. I figured something is loose in the forks... Anyway long story short is put the bike on the center stand and lifted the front tyre up while rocking the forks forward and back and I'm sure there is my problem, there is movement! So I need to still take bike in to get new steering head bearings but I'm pretty sure that has got to be my issue. I have never experienced this before.

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while rocking the forks forward and back and I'm sure there is my problem, there is movement! So I need to still take bike in to get new steering head bearings but I'm pretty sure that has got to be my issue. I have never experienced this before.
Might just need to tighten the head bearings, not replace them. Head bearings last a long time unless water and crap is getting in them. There is a cheap tool that goes in the head bearing top nut. It is the nut in the center that has all the holes in it. Just loosen the top triple clamp from the forks and head bering nut, then tighten the head bearing nut till it moves freely with no play.

Manual says tighten the head bearing nut to 3NM in order to get the correct free play setting, but I found it actually took about 15NM just to get it to move after being clamped by the triple clamp for years. I even tried to oil it. But i asked the local Ducati dealer certified Ohlins mechanic when he was setting my suspension about that head bearing tightening procedure and he told me you just tighten it to remove all play, not to worry about that 3NM torque figure. Manual is wrong, go figure. But the principal is simple.
 

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I've been following the previous thread and this one. New rider here with a mint 2010 S Touring. It only had 1840 miles on it when I got it a few months ago so I had to replace the tires and just upgraded to the Scorpion Trail 2. They have been great, very stable and planted.

Note the panniers have a label on them that advises to not exceed 180km (or 112mph) with them or a top box on. I put on the larger Puig touring windscreen too which I feel is not good in the raised position above about that speed.

That said I have not noticed a wobble. I've pushed it up to 130 a few times and back off realizing the speed is too fast for the accessories. But the bike wants to go! I feel it is very solid at high speed and the only limiting factor is my skill and confidence and the fact that it is an upright long suspension wide handlebar bike that is probably not ideally suited in that configuration for racing speeds in excess of 110, 120, 130ish. It wants to go, but I think I should recognize the limits and am not about to wind it out beyond that without seeing up for racing. But I am not feeling a wobble inherent in the bike.


Congrats!

Do you know if the belts and fluids have been changed? Belts are every 15K or five years, brake and clutch fluid are every three, coolant every four (I think) and fork oil might need it by now too after sitting that long.


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Congrats!

Do you know if the belts and fluids have been changed? Belts are every 15K or five years, brake and clutch fluid are every three, coolant every four (I think) and fork oil might need it by now too after sitting that long.
I changed all the fluids and the belts. Not the fork oil though. I decided to hold off on that. It has been sitting but clean, no seal leaks. So I figured changing fork oil might be a lot of work with little need. I decided to hold off to see if I want to upgrade the springs because I read in this form a lot of commentary on getting the heaver set of springs I think up from a 6 to a 7 in the front.
 

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I changed all the fluids and the belts. Not the fork oil though. I decided to hold off on that. It has been sitting but clean, no seal leaks. So I figured changing fork oil might be a lot of work with little need. I decided to hold off to see if I want to upgrade the springs because I read in this form a lot of commentary on getting the heaver set of springs I think up from a 6 to a 7 in the front.


Ok, cool. A buddy bought a 2013 and found out he needed belts.

I have a 2012 and went to the max recommended springs by Ohlins in the front and rear. 9.0 Nmm and 100 Nm. Ideal for a 210 pound guy. I weigh 288 (lost 30 pounds since I got the bike in April) and 210 was my goal weight anyway.


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Ok, cool. A buddy bought a 2013 and found out he needed belts.

I have a 2012 and went to the max recommended springs by Ohlins in the front and rear. 9.0 Nmm and 100 Nm. Ideal for a 210 pound guy. I weigh 288 (lost 30 pounds since I got the bike in April) and 210 was my goal weight anyway.
Yea, belts were $600 for the dealer to install, I checked into buying the tools to do it myself and special tools run up to about $1500 minimum, so if I get 5 years I just decided to let the dealer do it.

I'm 195 now and shooting for 180, watch the ice cream and 1 burger instead of 2. I figure under 190 pounds might be fine with stock springs. They feel pretty good now with the front forks at 2 turns out from full in.
 

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Yea, belts were $600 for the dealer to install, I checked into buying the tools to do it myself and special tools run up to about $1500 minimum, so if I get 5 years I just decided to let the dealer do it.



I'm 195 now and shooting for 180, watch the ice cream and 1 burger instead of 2. I figure under 190 pounds might be fine with stock springs. They feel pretty good now with the front forks at 2 turns out from full in.


Doing my own belts and valves as we speak! Haha

Fork oil, seals and front/rear springs was $800 for me at the dealer.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My 15 MTS has just recently started this, came out of a corner pinning it and almost got an out of control Wobble... Scary as hell! I have noticed recently quite a jerking motion on the handle bars when breaking with front brake, quite a notchy feel, and not break disk warping. I figured something is loose in the forks... Anyway long story short is put the bike on the center stand and lifted the front tyre up while rocking the forks forward and back and I'm sure there is my problem, there is movement! So I need to still take bike in to get new steering head bearings but I'm pretty sure that has got to be my issue. I have never experienced this before.

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dealer checked head bearings and were fine! The guys at ducati told me to change the tyres with scorpion sync 2 ONLY! (marketing or true?) And they said the problem they believe to stop. If not , then to go for fork oil change and service for both front and rear shock.
 

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The Scorpion Trail 2 are good. My take is they are basically the same as the Angel GT, but with a slight off road capability with deeper grooves. I like that because I do occasional off road. What I've read is the Trail 2 was developed directly from the Angel GT adding the dirt capability. If you want a strict speed touring tire and don't need that little bit more off road capability, I'd recommend the Angel GTs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The Scorpion Trail 2 are good. My take is they are basically the same as the Angel GT, but with a slight off road capability with deeper grooves. I like that because I do occasional off road. What I've read is the Trail 2 was developed directly from the Angel GT adding the dirt capability. If you want a strict speed touring tire and don't need that little bit more off road capability, I'd recommend the Angel GTs.


What about diablo corsa? Angel GT tried them on a dorsoduro and felt fantastic. Very balanced Tyre , very stable , liked the feeling you get into the corners


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What about diablo corsa? Angel GT tried them on a dorsoduro and felt fantastic. Very balanced Tyre , very stable , liked the feeling you get into the corners
Sounds like you like to ride fast, but MTS is more of a tourer. Angle GT is that middle ground not dirt riding, but not quite track riding either. Corsa is more on the level of track riding. There is a very slight difference between the SC2 and Angle GT, they both have basically the same dual compound. I think the SC2 has more of the harder compound near the center than the Angle GT. But don't quote me on that, when I was researching it I had a hard time finding what the exact compound difference was between the SC2 and Angle GT. Everything I read said SC2 was developed from the same dual compound technology as the Angle GT, but it didn't say exactly what percentage of the harder compound was on the center in both of them.

But when you go Corsa that is a different more entirely soft compound. Corsa is faster wearing and stickier. Great for race and track, but is that really your intended purpose?

For me I could go up to the Angle GT because I think Angel GT would be fine on moderate off road too due to the same basic compounds as the SC2, just not as much grooves as the SC2. But the SC2 seems to be performing quite well at full lean double posted corner speeds which is probably plenty for me. I generally keep it under 100mph and don't plan to ever really go above 130. SC2 has the advantage of the speed and cornering ability of the Angel GT, with the added flair of off road ability. Slight as that off road ability might be with just a bit more grooving.

I bet I get at least 5-7K miles out of the SC2, about the same with the Angle GT. They advertise better than that, but real world reviews say they get less. Probably depends how much tolerance people have to ride them bare. Corsa is more like 3K. That is just my understanding from researching it about 2 months ago when I put on the SC2s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sounds like you like to ride fast, but MTS is more of a tourer. Angle GT is that middle ground not dirt riding, but not quite track riding either. Corsa is more on the level of track riding. There is a very slight difference between the SC2 and Angle GT, they both have basically the same dual compound. I think the SC2 has more of the harder compound near the center than the Angle GT. But don't quote me on that, when I was researching it I had a hard time finding what the exact compound difference was between the SC2 and Angle GT. Everything I read said SC2 was developed from the same dual compound technology as the Angle GT, but it didn't say exactly what percentage of the harder compound was on the center in both of them.

But when you go Corsa that is a different more entirely soft compound. Corsa is faster wearing and stickier. Great for race and track, but is that really your intended purpose?

For me I could go up to the Angle GT because I think Angel GT would be fine on moderate off road too due to the same basic compounds as the SC2, just not as much grooves as the SC2. But the SC2 seems to be performing quite well at full lean double posted corner speeds which is probably plenty for me. I generally keep it under 100mph and don't plan to ever really go above 130. SC2 has the advantage of the speed and cornering ability of the Angel GT, with the added flair of off road ability. Slight as that off road ability might be with just a bit more grooving.

I bet I get at least 5-7K miles out of the SC2, about the same with the Angle GT. They advertise better than that, but real world reviews say they get less. Probably depends how much tolerance people have to ride them bare. Corsa is more like 3K. That is just my understanding from researching it about 2 months ago when I put on the SC2s.
you are right brother. My intended purpose is fast touring riding, not race or track oriented. If I want to go on track I will buy a pair of slicks for the weekend sessions. So basically Angel GT and SC2 are the way to go with multi
 

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Lavey- Please! report back if Pirelli's solve your issues. I'm going to punish these Michelins if they end up being the cause:laugh:
 

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Lavey- Please! report back if Pirelli's solve your issues. I'm going to punish these Michelins if they end up being the cause:laugh:
Ive got the PR5s on both my bikes, very impressed with them so far, I've been up to 200kph a few times and they feel rock solid, the front is 2 compounds also, they ball up nicely when pushed through the corners, the side grip is fantastic, much like a supersport tire. They do require 2-3 psi more than similar tires, but thats ok. They are a big step forward over the PR4, so much more stable on the side grip when cranked over. I reckon they be ok on a track day, the PR4s turned greasy real fast, tended to over heat and squirm.
 
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