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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Super noob, first post, first question, first bike Ducati 999 I know lol

Recently I discovered hairline cracks around the exhaust pipes going into the muffler (Termignoni).

Question: Can this be fixed by welding the areas intead of buying another brand new muffler. Since I have a welder friend and it would be a free fix

Thank you in advance

Please see pictures attached

Ride Safe

D
 

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It can be welded. I would suggest you reinforce the area with a plate cut to shape ON THE INSIDE OF THAT PART of the muffler. Don’t hack weld the outside only as it will break again.
I would also suggest you check the rear mount area as they frequently break there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good point xracer. Thank you
My monoposto frame cracked previously and I had to install the dualposto after. I was originally thinking in riding the bike to the shop and welding it without taking it off (outside only) but now that you mention it I might have to take the muffler off afterall.

thanks for the info

cheers
 

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You will have to take the can off, drill out the rivets and take the cap off, this is a good time to remove the filling and repack the muffler as well. I am doing the same right now feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck
 

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You will have to take the can off, drill out the rivets and take the cap off, this is a good time to remove the filling and repack the muffler as well. I am doing the same right now feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck
Hey LG,

Thanks for the reply!

I must say its only been 2 days and Im already getting more and more info how this isnt going to be just "ride up to my boys house and weld the crack" type situation. As I mentioned before this is my first bike and I am year and a half into ownership. So far I only replaced breaks,fluids,mono to dual posto, replaced/upgraded the battery wiring and lithium battery swap and am proud to say ran up 3k miles in year and a half of owning my bike I also and cleaned and lubed the chain before winterizing it and parking it in my living room for the season. Needless to say I do not know what the filling is and how to repack the muffler or the rivet drilling situation.

Considering the time-frame I ve been making strides in getting to know my bike by working on it personally. Any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks again for reply and I will have to do a ton of googling on subjects you mentioned prior

Salute

D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You will have to take the can off, drill out the rivets and take the cap off, this is a good time to remove the filling and repack the muffler as well. I am doing the same right now feel free to ask any questions if you get stuck
Hey

I just found the old thread about refilling the muffler with youtube links.

I guess it was pretty simple. take off the muffler, drill out the rivets holding it together, open it up possibly weld the inside also for reinforcement and replace the content with new fiberglass type material. and only then weld the outside hairline cracks?

Sorry for the step by step description. I am doing all the work myself and want to make sure I dont damage something due to lack of experience

cheers
 

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Once you still out the rivets both ends of the can come off, you can then take the cracked one to your buddy and see what he thinks about welding it back together, I don't have much advice on the welding end as I am not a welder.

But you seem to have the right idea, I found it takes about 3 lbs of loose fiberglass fill to refill the termi and if you have it apart there is no reason not to.
 

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You shouldn’t meet yo repack the muffler. Remove only the affected part as previously described and gently pull it out. If done correctly it should come an leave the glass stuffing in tact. Not always but a lot of the time. One of many reasons that it shouldn’t be welded whilst attached to the muffler is the carbon and glass fibre melt into the welded. Not very good for strength. And a bit of reinforcing doesn’t go astray.
 

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You shouldn’t meet yo repack the muffler. Remove only the affected part as previously described and gently pull it out. If done correctly it should come an leave the glass stuffing in tact. Not always but a lot of the time. One of many reasons that it shouldn’t be welded whilst attached to the muffler is the carbon and glass fibre melt into the welded. Not very good for strength. And a bit of reinforcing doesn’t go astray.

I agree but if you already have the can apart you might as well. Its surprising how much of the stuff can escape over the years
 

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Discussion Starter #13
metallic throaty boom sound oh wow I didnt think that was an option to be honest. Like take the contents out and leave it as is?
 

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one man's obnoxious is another's sexy.. lolz I digress..

The base metal looks like it has corroded, else the plate the pipe welds to wouldn't have cracked like that. Its been weakened from the inside. It'll likely need replacement. Which brings me to the best solution for the 999. As it looks like you're still running the stock can based on the pix. yes? Just replace the can with aftermarket half system, even used off eBay. The weight savings alone will let you go with the proper mono alum subframe, and saves so much weight that you'll actually be startled at the difference at corner turn-in, and have to adjust your rear suspension - then your front, to keep susp balanced. This is a huge win for these bikes.

Just do it!
 

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one man's obnoxious is another's sexy.. lolz I digress..

The base metal looks like it has corroded, else the plate the pipe welds to wouldn't have cracked like that. Its been weakened from the inside. It'll likely need replacement. Which brings me to the best solution for the 999. As it looks like you're still running the stock can based on the pix. yes? Just replace the can with aftermarket half system, even used off eBay. The weight savings alone will let you go with the proper mono alum subframe, and saves so much weight that you'll actually be startled at the difference at corner turn-in, and have to adjust your rear suspension - then your front, to keep susp balanced. This is a huge win for these bikes.

Just do it!
hey thanks for the input!
I curently have after market termis on. Also I already had the mono frame on and it also cracked and was forced to install dualposto frame and seat (lame)

i still have the oem exhaust also. I even looked at couple oval dominator pipes as a possibility. I have till spring to figure out what Im going to go with.
 

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one man's obnoxious is another's sexy.. lolz I digress..

The base metal looks like it has corroded, else the plate the pipe welds to wouldn't have cracked like that. Its been weakened from the inside. It'll likely need replacement. Which brings me to the best solution for the 999. As it looks like you're still running the stock can based on the pix. yes? Just replace the can with aftermarket half system, even used off eBay. The weight savings alone will let you go with the proper mono alum subframe, and saves so much weight that you'll actually be startled at the difference at corner turn-in, and have to adjust your rear suspension - then your front, to keep susp balanced. This is a huge win for these bikes.

Just do it!
They, and the 10/11 bikes, always break at a weld and then spread along the parent metal. Corrosion has nothing to do with it. In the 999 series I put it down to harmonics more than bad welds. Repaired numerous 999 mufflers both stainless and titanium along with steel and alloy subframes. The 10-11 bike exhausts I’ve repaired all cracked at the front header bung, the tang that has a rubber cushion to hold the fairing away from the pipe or the rear heat shield.
One thing I have noticed with 999 series is the amount of stress put on the muffler and subframes from muffles not lining up with the mounting holes.
 

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Harmonics - so, repetitive metal stress created by the different vibration frequencies of pipe vs can.. hmm. Sold my 999 mono 9.5 years ago, oy time does fly, so working off creaky memory here. I remember the pipe-can connection to be a sprung slip fit, so that'd be like a hammer on a drum.

OP, I had two OEM aluminum subframes crack under warranty in '03, months from new purchase. Went to aftermarket Silmotor Al can w/ full Ti system - the most attitudinal, giant FU exhaust ever known to man BTW - and no prob since.
979923


It still looks like you have a steel can, from the pix anyway. lose that thing, don't repair it. Like they say, once you've had Ti/Al/CF you never go back. Or it was something like that.. lemme seeee...🤔
 
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