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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
The ECU will adjust since it isnt going to drastically affect any of its maps. Its going to run the same as before with the exception of a little induction noise :)
The ECU cant adjust that far outside its zone. Since the stock mapping on the MTS1200 10-12 is abit on the lean side to begin with, it´s going to run ever leaner with this mod inplace. Not dangerously so, especially on a road bike that doesn´t go WOT all the time like a trackbike. But not getting the full benefit either.

Thank you Carlo,
So is there any added benefit for that mod without the mapping?
I'm just thinking, sense it's so easy to do at home while the bike is open now...
There WILL be improvement from the mod regardless of the mapping being done. Most of the improvement comes from cutting the left/clutchhandle side of the airbox open, not the snorkle cut right/throttle side off.
But the mod deos create maximum power and torque gains if you combine the opening with an adjustment of the fueling to fit.
If you have the termi system with Termi ECU, the bike does get abit more fuel where it needs it on the map.

See here. (Bear in mind that the torque is in Nm, not ft/lbs)
Green is fully stock. No mapping and no mods. 140.99hp and 116.5 Nm max torque (85.9 ft/lbs)
Red is mapped. max power increases by 0.5 hp and 0,6 NM (0.4 ft/lbs) gain. usually doesnt do much to map a stock engine nowadays.Blue is the result of cutting the airbox open and slightly adjusting the map. Gains jump with 3hp and 3,8NM(2.2 Ft/lbs)
BUT!! Thats not the whole story. Look at the crosssection at 5000RPM. Where you ride everyday. No one spends time at 10.000rpm on a MTS on the street. But at the 5000 rpm sweetspot, suddenly power is up by 4,5 hp and 6,5 nm (4,4ft/lbs). You have the same power/torque availble at 500 - 1000rpm lower Engine speeds compared to before. That is a huge diffrence. especially in higher gears like 6:th. You can cruise and ride at a higher gear then you could before. You have more power on tap at any givven RPM. And its free.
What does all that translate to? Well.. With a nice 15/42 gearing, if you roll on WOT at 3500rpm, the front comes up slowly at 7500 rpm or so and its a piece of cake to float it to the redline. You start handing "power cruisers" their ass at the redlight and sportbike riders dont like you anymore.
 

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The ECU cant adjust that far outside its zone. Since the stock mapping on the MTS1200 10-12 is abit on the lean side to begin with, it´s going to run ever leaner with this mod inplace. Not dangerously so, especially on a road bike that doesn´t go WOT all the time like a trackbike. But not getting the full benefit either.



There WILL be improvement from the mod regardless of the mapping being done. Most of the improvement comes from cutting the left/clutchhandle side of the airbox open, not the snorkle cut right/throttle side off.
But the mod deos create maximum power and torque gains if you combine the opening with an adjustment of the fueling to fit.
If you have the termi system with Termi ECU, the bike does get abit more fuel where it needs it on the map.

See here. (Bear in mind that the torque is in Nm, not ft/lbs)
Green is fully stock. No mapping and no mods. 140.99hp and 116.5 Nm max torque (85.9 ft/lbs)
Red is mapped. max power increases by 0.5 hp and 0,6 NM (0.4 ft/lbs) gain. usually doesnt do much to map a stock engine nowadays.Blue is the result of cutting the airbox open and slightly adjusting the map. Gains jump with 3hp and 3,8NM(2.2 Ft/lbs)
BUT!! Thats not the whole story. Look at the crosssection at 5000RPM. Where you ride everyday. No one spends time at 10.000rpm on a MTS on the street. But at the 5000 rpm sweetspot, suddenly power is up by 4,5 hp and 6,5 nm (4,4ft/lbs). You have the same power/torque availble at 500 - 1000rpm lower Engine speeds compared to before. That is a huge diffrence. especially in higher gears like 6:th. You can cruise and ride at a higher gear then you could before. You have more power on tap at any givven RPM. And its free.
What does all that translate to? Well.. With a nice 15/42 gearing, if you roll on WOT at 3500rpm, the front comes up slowly at 7500 rpm or so and its a piece of cake to float it to the redline. You start handing "power cruisers" their ass at the redlight and sportbike riders dont like you anymore.
Amullo, thank you so much for the detailed explanation, you got me convinced, I did want to do the 15/42 ratio as well, I ran a similar setup on another bike with conversion of 525, in addition of lighter flywheel and it works beautiful.

BTW amullo, any suggestion on how much to cut the flywheel as we at it? I know it's not the right thread, but would love to hear from your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Amullo, thank you so much for the detailed explanation, you got me convinced, I did want to do the 15/42 ratio as well, I ran a similar setup on another bike with conversion of 525, in addition of lighter flywheel and it works beautiful.

BTW amullo, any suggestion on how much to cut the flywheel as we at it? I know it's not the right thread, but would love to hear from your experience.
I really dont see the need for it.. A light flywheel is a nice idea on a trackbike and a very good idea on a racingbike, but on a roadbike? I dont see the need for it.
The flywheel helps the engine run smoother through the rev range. The reason to make it lighter is mostly to reduce rotating mass for quicker response in high engine speeds. On mid to low engine speeds on a roadbike, I have found that the stock flywheel works great.
I´ve ridden the 1098 and 1198 with both stock and lighter flywheel on the track and I couldn´t feel a diffrence. The gains will be minute on a lump like the MTS1200. Like a 1Hp at the very top maybe. Im not a fan of lighter flywheels, But I have run them on 748 and 996SPS engines previously.
- Spend your money elsewhere..

If you want to bump Power, get some higher compression 1198 or Pistal pistons or/and 1098 or 1198 cams in the engine, then your going to start making significant powergains.
with stock 1198 pistons and 1098 cams, your not going to be loosing the nice clean midrange oomph, but you will probably add 20+ RWHP on the bike.

The stock exhaust is also good for another 15-20hp. Ducati really did make a pretty good one on the MTS. I have the full system on mine, but thats mostly just for the sound. I didnt get any hp gains switching from the stock system to the Termignoni full system.
 

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I really dont see the need for it.. A light flywheel is a nice idea on a trackbike and a very good idea on a racingbike, but on a roadbike? I dont see the need for it.
The flywheel helps the engine run smoother through the rev range. The reason to make it lighter is mostly to reduce rotating mass for quicker response in high engine speeds. On mid to low engine speeds on a roadbike, I have found that the stock flywheel works great.
I´ve ridden the 1098 and 1198 with both stock and lighter flywheel on the track and I couldn´t feel a diffrence. The gains will be minute on a lump like the MTS1200. Like a 1Hp at the very top maybe. Im not a fan of lighter flywheels, But I have run them on 748 and 996SPS engines previously.
- Spend your money elsewhere..

If you want to bump Power, get some higher compression 1198 or Pistal pistons or/and 1098 or 1198 cams in the engine, then your going to start making significant powergains.
with stock 1198 pistons and 1098 cams, your not going to be loosing the nice clean midrange oomph, but you will probably add 20+ RWHP on the bike.

The stock exhaust is also good for another 15-20hp. Ducati really did make a pretty good one on the MTS. I have the full system on mine, but thats mostly just for the sound. I didnt get any hp gains switching from the stock system to the Termignoni full system.
Thanks again amullo, I am not looking to get allot more, just a little better in an easy way, not a complicated expensive investment like engine work, I already have that on my plate, with main bearing failure for that matter :grin2:
 
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