I can personally recommend it! Tom has done three of my bikes and would not let anyone else touch them when it comes to tuning (excpet maybe Erik at proservice and Janne att IBC). Since your in Stockholm, we can also meet up and you can try my bike if you like. The change particularly at low RPM is MASSIVE! Mine now clims onto the backwheel easily at around 6k rpm if you roll on the throttle from 3k.Thanks for sharing this, I'm going to do this mod during the loooooooooong (thats how long it feels ) winter here in Stockholm.
Might have to let Tom do his magic with the map as well
Amullo's right... The soldering iron is they way to go, no mess and very easy...excellent tipHey Gilles.
Try using a soldering iron instead of a dremel on the left side hole. Its alot easier to work with in the confined space inside the airbox. Just burn/melt through the plastic. Plus you dont need to cover the intakes.
The snorkel you can dremel ofcourse.
I was wondering the exact thing. I actually did the very same modification to my 2007 Yamaha XJR1300SP. The difference with that one was that the inlet manifold rubbers also had to be changed as they were tapered and the small end at the inlet port on the motor was about 30% smaller than the port itself. I also added a small inlet stub on each side to allow better flow. The gain was massive increasing power by almost 30HP after jetting changes.Interesting post. How about the ram air effect at speed? Will the new opening and lack of positive airbox pressure kill performance at speed?
I'm not chastising your idea, I'm asking...
Correct me if I'm wrong but that would be true with the throttle closed but much less so with the throttle open. As you open the throttle, more of the overpressure air will flow into the engine and not out the seal. You would be correct in assuming that a better seal should make a difference but it may not be very much.Having a straight intake pipe from the front to the airbox doesnt mean you have ramair unless the seals along the way can hold the overpressure that is created. Especially check out the connection between the intake snout bolted to the airbox and the plastic tubing leading forward. The tubing slips onto the outside of the snout, so there is no seal. The basic way to create on here would be to put the tubing inside the airsnout. Any overpressure will leak out on todays construction in MY OPINION.
But putting an atmosperic sensor in there should be easy. Who is up for it?
Yep! The first test should be to measure the relative HP with the ram air tube connected and disconnected and with a high pressure fan forcing air at the inlet duct. That would tell us if there is a significant ram air effect to start with. If there IS such an effect, I can see that this mod would increase flow at low speeds and give a noticeable increase in torque but at high speeds it may reduce power.The airbox itself is cut open, so any ram-air effect is lost.
The intake snout is cut between the airbox and intake channel. Think of it as being inside the fairings by your right knee when riding
The hole in the airbox (left side) is done from within the airbox. Think of it as being inside your left knee when riding.
Now.. The ram air effect on the MTS as a whole would be intresting to see. If anyone would be able to give me a clue on what the increase in pressure actually is on a stock bike, then Id say the effect would be quantifiable. I am GUESSING that the effect is next to zero.. I would be very amazed if the effect of ramair would be able to increase power and torque across the range as the above mod has done (which actually is proven on a dyno).
Will ramair on the MTS increase power with 4.5hp and 4.1ft/lbs (6nm indicated on dyno)?
Across the entire revrange? Not speed dependent?
You can check this out if you like..
Conclusion: Up to 120 mph when the boost hits 20mb, we're only talking about the odd bhp. On a ZX-9R.. Those have doulble intakes and are made to be tight. The MTS´s intake isnt.
But I´m open to other peoples experience, just as long as its relevant to real world usage. I dont ride over 100mph all that often, so..
That's also a good point.As I understood it, its not the actual extra area (hole) for flow that makes the big diffrence, its the resonance of the enclosed airbox that changes to the positive when making this mod.
I think Tom has run a couple of bikes without airfilter to see what it does and the gain is marginal afaik. But he did advice me to buy a MWR airfilter. Havent done it yet, but its on my winterlist