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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys!
Finally got around to writing up the report on the airbox modificatin that Tom at Hypertrick came up with.
I figured this info is good for everyone as it gives free hp and torque for no cost whatsover!

The basic theory is that you need to open up the left side of the airbox to increase airflow and change the airpulseresonance
(whatever.. as long as it works right?)

Doing the modification is easy and requires allenkeys for the right side fairing and the airsnout/intake channel from the nose.
A dremel or similar for doing the snout and soldering iron for the left side mod plus a good flashlight.
All the work is done from the right side/throttle side of the bike.

Ill assume that you have removed the RIGHT side fairing

RIGHT SIDE
Remove the curved hardplastic airchannel and cut with dremel as shown.
This part of the mod actually does little to increase power..
Only 1hp, but that HP is gained in an area where there is a dip in power and torque.



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
LEFT SIDE
The Left side mod is the one that does the actaul power and torque increase.
The mod is easy and you can do it without needing to remove more then the right side fairng and airsnout (above).

Basically we are making a hole that follows the inside area of the airfilter on the left (clutch) side of the airbox.
To be able to do this without the need for massive cleanup, we use a soldering iron to "melt" the plastic.

Remove the airfilter and place a good flashlight towards the spot where the airfilter sits against the inside on the clutchside of the airbox (puh).
If you look closely, you will see an outline of the shape we need to cut.
You can mark this further using a marker or knife if you wish.

Use the soldering iron and "burn through" the plastic. Using the soldering iron to melt the plastic leaves no residue inside the airbox,
cut/melt the plastic in the shape of the INSIDE area of the airfilter.
The idea is that the air coming through the hole on the clutchside should still be cleaned by the airfilter before passing into the airbox. Your basically cutting a duplicate of the stock hole , but on the other side of the airbox!
You may want to remove a smaller piece first and "testfit" the airfilter.
Making the hole 100% isnt really needed. (see bottom right in pic below).

Pic taken from right side after refitting airfilter. The airfilter still cleans all the air to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Result:
Green - Stock bike except for Termignoni slipon, Stock ECU, no mods
Red - Mapped bike before AIRBOX mod above.. This is a very well put together map and the bike is silky smooth from 2000rpm to redline
BLUE - Mapped bike plus the airbox mod above.. The biggest increase was FREE and now you know how!


HUGE kudos for tomtom at Hypertrick for doing this for me and letting spread the secret. He doesnt care that much for gold and really had no problem with me posting detailed info for everyone to enjoy.
 
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So, most people are trying to richen it up using fatducs and the like, and you are doing the opposite! I would suggest you not do this to a bike without a PCV or similar to correct the over lean condition that would surely result.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Thanks for the write up, and to Tom for sharing...Your pictures are perfect to show what the %$#@ Tom was talking about in his posts. Big Thumbs up!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I´ll have Tom give you a feedback on the overly lean condition.. But fatducs would solve that problem even If i feel the remap was worth every penny i spent on it.
 

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MTS runs lean oem, particularly above 8k, so you need to make it richer, but then the hp is free so to speak.
Amullos bike is just serious fun to ride, like a big Merc, it just pulls really hard from the very bottom end.

And to stay ahead of comments on that warm air will get into the engine, it will not as soon as you start moving, we tried a car in the wind tunnel with temp sensors on (a car with a bonnet that keeps air capsuled during standstill being much worse) at 35mph the temp inside the engine bay is the same as outside.
 

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Yes, it would be good to see the A/F ratio before and after on the dyno.
 

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Interesting post. How about the ram air effect at speed? Will the new opening and lack of positive airbox pressure kill performance at speed?
I'm not chastising your idea, I'm asking...
 

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I can't quite visualise where the holes are relative to the airbox as a whole, but I would presume the ram-air effect still applied. After all, it's the entire airbox that's pressurised. You would only lose that effect if there was a hole cut somewhere in the airbox itself, allowing the pressure to drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The airbox itself is cut open, so any ram-air effect is lost.
The intake snout is cut between the airbox and intake channel. Think of it as being inside the fairings by your right knee when riding
The hole in the airbox (left side) is done from within the airbox. Think of it as being inside your left knee when riding.

Now.. The ram air effect on the MTS as a whole would be intresting to see. If anyone would be able to give me a clue on what the increase in pressure actually is on a stock bike, then Id say the effect would be quantifiable. I am GUESSING that the effect is next to zero.. I would be very amazed if the effect of ramair would be able to increase power and torque across the range as the above mod has done (which actually is proven on a dyno).

Will ramair on the MTS increase power with 4.5hp and 4.1ft/lbs (6nm indicated on dyno)?
Across the entire revrange? Not speed dependent?

You can check this out if you like..
TESTS
Conclusion: Up to 120 mph when the boost hits 20mb, we're only talking about the odd bhp. On a ZX-9R.. Those have doulble intakes and are made to be tight. The MTS´s intake isnt.

But I´m open to other peoples experience, just as long as its relevant to real world usage. I dont ride over 100mph all that often, so..
 

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The absolute maximum delta p is 0.5 * 1.225 * v ^ 2 (v in m/s),
so, for 100mph (about 45 m/s), delta p is 1224 pascal, which is about 0.17psi
or about 1.2% (standard conditions: sea level and 15 degrees celcius).

With reduced efficiency, the pressure increase would be less.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry.. I missed the point.. :)
The above info was from the report.

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From all that I've read the ram air effect isn't really relevant till your over 100 mph as amullo said. I know when I had my ZX14 a lot of people on the forums worked at making the setup more efficient, from the factory they had small leaks and weren't sealed as good as they could have been. A guy who had a dyno at his shop found this out when he started building a turbo unit for a customer.

For my day to day riding making it over the ton mark is a rare occasion (once a week maybe). But on my weekend rides and road trips .. ;)
That being said it's never for any serious length of time.

The only thing I noticed on my ram air bikes as opposed to my non's was that the bike does seem to breath better and pull/rev easier as the mph rise.

On this bike I don't see myself being in that scenario very often if at all. I will however miss that top end rush of the 14 though for sure.
 

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BR...I'm right there with ya!! I loved that top end rush from my ZX-14. But oh damn did you need to have a sixth sense on where the gendarme were hiding!! You could lose your license in an instant at the speeds it was so easily capable of :eek:
 

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Would a sport filter (KN) not do the same? Will let more air through.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As I understood it, its not the actual extra area (hole) for flow that makes the big diffrence, its the resonance of the enclosed airbox that changes to the positive when making this mod.
I think Tom has run a couple of bikes without airfilter to see what it does and the gain is marginal afaik. But he did advice me to buy a MWR airfilter. Havent done it yet, but its on my winterlist
 

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Hmmm, interesting.
I expect this will increase induction noise substantially which should make a MTS with an after market pipe and this mod sound glorious on the throttle.

I've done this kind of mod to two bikes in the past:

Yamaha XJR1300 which gained nearly 30HP with air inlets opened on one side and added on the other. On this bike we were able to fit a couple of short venturi/bellmouth. With the odd shape of the cut you've made, a venturi/bellmouth would be hard to fit. The big gain on this bike was because Yamaha had crippled the bike to meet Euro regs on power. It only had 95HP when standard and 127 after the work which included better manifold rubbers.

KTM690smc which gained around 10HP (cut the airbox off just in front of the MAS and added a huge pod filter). Both gained good power mid-range and both bikes returned BETTER fuel economy afterwards (at cruising speeds).

With the Bazazz fueller and self mapper fitted; this should be a doddle to do.
 
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