So to answer my own question... yes, the road is nicely re-paved. And the view from the top is pretty nice. But riding up there is nothing great (IMO). There are many hiker crossings, and even on a weekday, there were quite a few cars and not many places to pass... well, you can do it, but people are doing the 25 mph speed limit and enjoying the serenity of the drive.. some old folks, some with kids... Made me think twice about passing, so I didn't. Plus, who wants to be confronted by angry motorists in the parking lot at the top?
So bottom line... leisurely/twisty ride with a nice view at the top (and a restaurant that I didn't have time to sample).