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Discussion Starter #1
i am looking at tpo hardened motormount bolts. for a few extra $ i can get them in titanium. not familiar with the properties of this stuff. any disadvantages in this application or should i stick with there regular hardened bolts?
 

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One point with Ti is that you have do worry about galvanic corrosion. Do a search for some good discussions. I would use Nichols, great improvement on mine.
 

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Basically Titanium is stronger then most steel alloys, and almost as light as Aluminium. Titanium also doesn't oxidize (rust), and doesn’t react to most chemicals (road salt). So by making these engines bolt out of Titanium they will be lighter, as strong and won’t rust. Then again steel bolts weighing twice as much as the Titanium bolts will do the same job at a fraction of the price, and really does the extra pound matter. I guess that depends on how serious you are about the weight of your bike as compared to the weight of your wallet :D
 

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i am looking at tpo hardened motormount bolts. for a few extra $ i can get them in titanium. not familiar with the properties of this stuff. any disadvantages in this application or should i stick with there regular hardened bolts?
A 'few extra' dollars? What are your price quotes for both? OEM bolt is around $15 each. OEM Swingarm pivot is $100. Two titanium bolts are $150 and swingarm pivot is $300. Spending $450 on bolts that will save 1 pound on a 900SS seems a little excessive.

To answer the question, I'd spend $450 on something else and stick with the regular OEM bolts.
 

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I think that a Ti rear axle is a good idea. I know Yoyodyne and others sell a Ti front axle. TPO sells an aluminum front one. Reducing unsprung and rotating weight should be the first priorities, but Ti engine bolts are still cool.
 

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Fitted a set of titanium engine mount bolts to my 916 just did not
feel right when torqued up so refitted the steel ones which
felt right to me when i torqued them up, just me i have ti bolts and a
swing arm spindle no problem with them just the two engine mount bolts.
gave the feeling they were twisting ( to long ? ) not clamping if you know what i mean.
just my 2p.

brian.
 

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The incentive to replace the engine bolts is 90% (at least) stiffness, 10% weight. And they do make a noticeable difference in chassis stiffness.

There are alot of more cost effective ways to drop weight.
 

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Put the money towards a Penske or Ohlins shock, or forks. Maybe lighter wheels. Get the steel 12mm bolts, the weight couldn't be in a much better place[cg]. They definitely help the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fitted a set of titanium engine mount bolts to my 916 just did not
feel right when torqued up so refitted the steel ones which
felt right to me when i torqued them up, just me i have ti bolts and a
swing arm spindle no problem with them just the two engine mount bolts.
gave the feeling they were twisting ( to long ? ) not clamping if you know what i mean.
just my 2p.

brian.
this is what i wanted to here. i will stick with the tpo hardened bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
this isn,t about bolts breaking. the hardened bolts will actually make the frame stiffer. noticeable better handling by most accounts.
 

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OK OK lets figure this out

OK lets figure this out

I keep hearing these bolts really really improve the handling....
I can't understand that is makes that much difference>>>>\
Sure I want to help my 95 cr perform better.. and like most of you guys I'm sort of GAGA about mt bikes....
but help me out
is it THAT much better???? :abduct:
because I keep hearing that ,,,, sell me my wallet is open... ????:think:

09 Ducati GT1000 Black and Gold; 14:40 with Ohlins F&R, Termis & Rizoma bling
95 Ducati SS 900 CR Red; 15:41 my new project…
81 Yamaha SR 500 total cafe project bike
 

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I bought and fitted the Nichols engine bolts to my 93. When you actually see them and the old bolts that came out you get a better idea of what they are about.

With my old bolts, I could see where they were rubbing especially the rear bolt. That means something was flexing - even if onbly a little. The new bolts fit both the front and rear mounting holes in the case tighter and pull the frame a lot tighter up against them - they are the same diameter as the holes and the same width as the cases. You do have to drill out the thread on the right hand side of the frame to fit the Nichols bolts - you cannot got back to the original bolts without replacing the frame - other manufacturers might be the same.

The difference on the first ride was noticable. The bike felt a lot tighter on the road. Bit like the same as going from worn tyres to new pair and a wheel alignment.

Another way to put it is to have a look at a Ducati. The only thing that ties the front wheel to the rear (really) are just those two bolts. The swing arm mounts to the back of the engine and just those two bolts hold the engine in the frame so if there is even the slightest movement there it can't be all that good.

Just remember - nobody can pressure you to spend your money. Research is your friend.
 

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Great help

Thanks Dave... that made total sense to me... those old tired (maybe corroded) 1995 thin bolts are responsible for holding the whole kit and caboodle....

Seems like they deserve a lot of attention.:think::think:


Thanks
Cory

09 Ducati GT1000 Black and Gold; 14:40 with Ohlins F&R, Termis & Rizoma bling
95 Ducati SS 900 CR Red; 15:41 my new project…
81 Yamaha SR 500 total cafe project bike
 
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