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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Motorex Chain Clean 611

Cost ~ 11USD

Stuff just works.
Run bike for ~5m, grab a brush (grunge brush or similar).
It takes off everything.
Just used after bike sat for 5 months and my chain looks newer than when I left.

Better than just using Chain Wax as a cleaner and lubricant.

Would I buy again? Yes.
 

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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
This was my first time using it and I am impressed.
Normally I just use chain wax, but this really is much better.
 

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i've never actually cleaned a chain before--just lube it regularly. does motorex make a mess? in my mind, cleaning a chain means getting it drippy wet with lube melting off and stuff flying everywhere onto the rear wheel and around the front sprocket. once you spray the motorex on, how do you remove it and the melted off lube to get a clean, DRY chain upon which to apply fresh lube?
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #6
It doesn't make a mess, no worries.
I always place a towel over my rim and on the ground even when lubing.

Ride for 5m to warm up the chain, park it and if you have a rear stand, put it up.
Spray it on liberally, it doesn't drip that much at all, wait a couple min for it to do stuff.
Use a grunge brush and use some elbow grease. It doesn't make a mess at all, even when using a brush.
Use a towel and clean off the crap (making the chain pretty dry).
I did the whole process twice.

Then, lub. as you normally would.
That's it.

Oh yea, mate, go clean your chain!
I try to lube every 500m and clean every 1000, regardless of how it looks.
A couple bucks and some elbow grease vs. $250-300 for a new chain is a good deal.
 

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6,328 Posts
Go out and get some WD40 at Walgreens, in fact if you contact WD40 via Email they'll send you a coupon for a 18oz. freebie. Anyway, alittle WD on any old toothbrush and bore brush, scrub. I use a bore brush to get in between the links, after the bike sits overnight, wipe it off again w/ some paper towels and it will look like new......especially the gold chains. Letting it sit overnight w/ a decent coat of WD40 is the key. By the next day all the rust and grime are gone. A good wipe down agin w/ some paper towels or shop rag and your golden!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WD40 war about to begin.
Pasted from: http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/6639-advice-cleaning-chain.html

The age old flame worthy question; Is WD-40 safe to use on your chain?

Yes, All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings, and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.

Here's the formulation of WD-40:

80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance.

Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics:

Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals)
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Chemraz
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Kalrez
Nitrile, hydrogenated
Polyacrylate
Teflon, virgin

Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals)
Neoprene
Vamac

Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals)
Polysulfide
Polyurethane, millable

Poor Compatibility
Butyl
Ethylene-Propylene
Hypalon
Natural rubber
Silicone
Styrene Butadiene

Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor.

Link:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard Solvent

If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.

Should you also use a chain lube afterwards?

The answer depends on whether external chain lubrication is beneficial for a chain with internal grease sealed with o-rings, and perhaps how often you clean your chain.

One school-of-thought believes that no additional lubrication is needed. The other believes that the sprocket and chain surfaces that do not have permanent grease also need to be lubricated.

The chain manufacturers tell us that also lubricating the chain and sprocket surfaces will extend the life of these components. But a chain lube will sling-off unless designed to stick to the chain, so it needs to stay tacky. Consequently, it will also attract grit and road debris that, in turn, will accelerate wear faster than if you just have a clean unlubricated chain. Chain lube will also reduce power losses due to friction and shed water that leads to rust (and wear). If you live in a wet climate, you should probably use chain lube to prevent rust.

A chain newly-cleaned with WD-40 will have a coat of light oil that will effectively displace water and reduce surface corrosion of the links. It's a low viscosity oil so any excess will sling off easily, but will attract very little grit - much less that any chain lube - and it will have the same rolling friction as a number of chain lubes on the market.

WD-40, used as a one-step cleaner and lubricant is sufficient. Because it is a light oil, some fling-off will occur, so any excess should be wiped-off. USED REGULARLY, it provides good corrosion protection, low (but not the lowest) rolling resistance, and attracts less road grit than waxy chain lubes. So your chain stays very clean.

If you aren't inclined to clean and lube your chain regularly, or often ride in wet conditions that promote corrosion, there are chain lubes on the market that are designed to stick to your chain to resist fling-off and provide longer-lasting corrosion protection. Some remain tacky and attract grit, some stay slippery to the touch. All of them need to cleaned off and renewed at some point.

If you’ve decided to use chain lube after cleaning your chain, then it’s best to use straight kerosene as your cleaner because the light oil that WD-40 contains will make it difficult for the chain lube to stay attached without flinging-off.
 

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I try to lube every 500m and clean every 1000, regardless of how it looks.
I try to follow that schedule except when I am on a road trip, then I just lube every 500 miles (or at the end of the day) and save the cleaning for after I return home. The bike usually needs a wash by that time as well.

I clean the chain with kerosene. I started using that DuPont Teflon product available at hardware stores as a lubricant after being made aware of it by Mark Turbo. It does not fling, dries fairly quickly, and does not attract as much dirt as my old chain lube.
 

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Get a Scottoiler. 9000 miles now, no cleaning, no oiling, no issues whatsoever with the chain :) When the bike needs a wash, just wash the chain with the hi pressure hot water. When you get sand on the chain ( like after a windy kite/beach day ) just adjust the flow to +2 units for a few miles and then back to normal. Chain always stays in condition :)
 
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