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Discussion Starter #1
the dopey things ex-racers (still in contact with friends who haven't yet escaped) do......

full (full, full) tank.

why? why not? borrowed the set to check the corner weights on the FFR MkIII Roadster I helped my bro in law build a few years back.
 

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Sorry sp3 I am not used to reading this type of scale I will assume it was 424lbs read in the upper right corner? I have threatened to pick up something like this sort of a weight dyno (as long as I do not have to step on it).

I would have expected it a little lighter with your aftermarket exhaust but it is a real world number newer bikes are not much lighter almost 20 years later.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are four pads (car scales). Since I am alone for the next couple days, three pads were used for the photo with the third under the side stand. Total is the upper right most corner.

For (car) road racing, the chassis would be generally set 'square' - LF/RF weights the same, LR/RR the same. Easy on a single-seater, less so on a GT car. On ovals, the LF and RR would be (statically) set with some extra weight jacked onto them to help turn the car.

As for the bike, it's mostly stock (some DP carbon bits, Remus/DP mufflers) with a tail chop. But, it also has a nice new (still heavy) AGM battery (15.4 lbs) and 180 rear instead of the 170 it came with and it's not a nice light sport tire. So, it's all likely a wash.

I borrowed them so I can check the corner weights on my bro-in-law's Cobra rep. When I set up the suspension, I got it close (I think) by feel while I got the caster/camber/toe/ride height/rake/tilt spot on. It's driven extremely well (he can't feel anything) but, I've always wanted to see just where the weights ended up. So, called my peoples and here I am. Hoping the get them set up in his garage (no slope; easy starting point) in the next day or two.
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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Just about right. I weighed my S2R1000 at 420 with a full tank. Most weight reduction came from the exhaust and battery.
 

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Come in Spinner :)
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I just use one scale and a block of wood the same height under the other wheel, swapping it around and then adding the two readings together.
No need for a third set under the side stand, just hold the bike steady and read off the weight, that way I get the true F/R split.

Just for interest my Cagiva Mito 125cc 2-stroke goes F65kg, R65kg for a total 130kg, 50/50 F/R spilt.

The old Triumph Daytona cafe racer came in heavy at F65kg, R78kg, total 143kg 45/54 F/R split.

The Yamaha SR500 cafe racer cruised in at F65kg, R65kg total 130kg, 50/50 F/R split, surprisingly the same as the little Mito.

Guess I'm just as anal about these things as you are.
Either that or else I have too much time on my hands ;)
I have no idea why today's bikes with all the modern light weight materials available are so bloody heavy. If I can build them this light then so can the factories.
I removed 33kg from the Yamaha from the factory weight.

Adding power makes you faster down the straights, adding lightness makes you faster everywhere... Colin Chapman.
 

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LOL!

I casually glanced at the weight reading in the upper right corner of your second pic SP3 when my eyebrows shot straight up and I literally did a double take.

I saw the 424T and thought WTF 424 tons! Holy smokes either somebody was sticking a foot on the scales when he wasn't looking or I'm looking at photographic proof of the heaviest fully fueled Monster ever in like the entire history of ever. :laugh:

Thanks for the clarification.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just use one scale and a block of wood the same height under the other wheel, swapping it around and then adding the two readings together.
No need for a third set under the side stand, just hold the bike steady and read off the weight, that way I get the true F/R split.

Just for interest my Cagiva Mito 125cc 2-stroke goes F65kg, R65kg for a total 130kg, 50/50 F/R spilt.

The old Triumph Daytona cafe racer came in heavy at F65kg, R78kg, total 143kg 45/54 F/R split.

The Yamaha SR500 cafe racer cruised in at F65kg, R65kg total 130kg, 50/50 F/R split, surprisingly the same as the little Mito.

Guess I'm just as anal about these things as you are.
Either that or else I have too much time on my hands ;)
I have no idea why today's bikes with all the modern light weight materials available are so bloody heavy. If I can build them this light then so can the factories.
I removed 33kg from the Yamaha from the factory weight.

Adding power makes you faster down the straights, adding lightness makes you faster everywhere... Colin Chapman.
Only used the three because A) I had them and B) couldn't take the photo while balancing on two. I did do so, however, and found it 1 lb heavy to the rear. Would like it more forward but, it is what it is.

I agree with your questioning the weight of modern bikes (and even more so, cars). NOTHING is as light as it should be, in my mind. 20 bloody 17 and a two seat, nigh on $1M, carbon this, titanium that, magnesium the other, sports car shouldn't weight more than 2800 lbs (talking to you, Porsche 918). Chapman was a boyhood hero of mine.


LOL!

I casually glanced at the weight reading in the upper right corner of your second pic SP3 when my eyebrows shot straight up and I literally did a double take.

I saw the 424T and thought WTF 424 tons! Holy smokes either somebody was sticking a foot on the scales when he wasn't looking or I'm looking at photographic proof of the heaviest fully fueled Monster ever in like the entire history of ever. :laugh:

Thanks for the clarification.
It could be a tad lighter.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
 
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Discussion Starter #9
And now for the real reason I borrowed the scales. Surprised (but, not terribly so) at how close I got it by feel way back when. Tomorrow, I'll tweak things slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
today's first, and only, stab at tweaking it before taking the scales back tomorrow =
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Essentially the same split front to rear. When I did the set-up back when, I set the ride height level with the driver. And now with near-perfect corner weights.

Nothing to be done to get the L-R weights equal with driver. The only thing that could be moved is the battery (centered below and under front of trunk) but that won't even out the steering gear, pedals, masters, gauges, (most of) the wiring, and brake booster. Just not that much 'stuff' in this car to shuffle vs. a modern street car.

If it were an actual racecar (and the weight distribution was the same), I'd replace the right side floor with 3/16" steel sheet (comes in aluminum) as ballast, for starters.
 

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When I raced sprint cars we'd slightly adjust the ride height one side to get the desired weight distribution one side to the other.
 

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today's first, and only, stab at tweaking it before taking the scales back tomorrow =
I can see your left right weight distribution problem... the steering wheel is on the wrong side >:)
 
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Discussion Starter #15
When I raced sprint cars we'd slightly adjust the ride height one side to get the desired weight distribution one side to the other.
same with the Indycars I worked on. easy with a single-seater. we had them all twisted around at some tracks.
 
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