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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Looking for some wisdom from my fellow Ducatista`s on here :)

As the title says my Monster is not healthy at the moment, a little background on the mods on the bike, full Termi exhaust and DP perf. ECU (unknown tune)
Belt changed and valve adjustment this past winter and new plugs (NGK irridium) new fuel filter and fresh oil.

Now all was well and rosie for the first 700 miles or so, then on one ride, 40 miles after a fuel stop I slowed down to turn in to a side street and the bike misfired briefly then a few feet later the bike cut out (like the throttle was not connected) did this twice in about 300 feet.

Parked the bike for about 20min. visiting some friends. Later got back on the bike and it started perfect & ran well but there was still a little misfiring at steady throttle but very minor...
But like the rest of you I know my bike, so it was concerning. I though maybe a bad load of fuel as the following rides it seemed to be getting better, but on the last ride the bike let me know it needed some attention!!

As I pulled out to pass 3 cars the bike just cut-out next to the door of the first car!! :( ...I was stunned to say the least but reacted well I backed off the throttle re-applies and passed the one car and got back in line. It did it again about 30 miles later and again it happened when I went WOT...F....!$

Got home and checked the basics, battery terminals, ECU ground and engine ground all OK. The next morning I went out to see If I could reproduce the problem.
It took about 5 tries at WOT but I got it to cut-out 3 times and after that it really started to cut-out & pop. So I turned around and headed back home, as Soon as I slowed to make a u-turn the bike stalled, it started right back up but it would not idle at all kept stalling.

Barely made it back home as every time I had to come to a stop it died!
After reading some past threads on here, the likely culprit is a bad CPS (crank position sensor)

I will be cleaning the CPS sensor connector tonight with some good contact cleaner, just in case it really is that simple
Any other thoughts..


Thanks
Pete
 

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Did you connect the fuel pump harness properly when you changed the fuel filter?

S4Rs had a problem with tight harness around the tripple tube frame neck. After while it start to short out when handlebars are turned. Start the bike and move the harness around. Including the part that goes to the ignition.

Since the bike just cuts out check if the antenna for the immobilizer on the ignition is still attached properly. If the antenna is torn off or bunched up it may not have good connection to the key and every time it loses connection it activates the immobilizer. Which cuts the fuel pump and ignition. Does the orange immobilizer light come on when the bike cats out?

Lastly check the connection on the crank position sensor and check the sensor itself.

Download the S4RS Service Repair Manual here
 
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I had an issue with my S4RS about a year ago and you might be experiencing something similar. Someone at the factory put the zip ties too close to the connectors when attaching the wiring harness to the frame. The result was the wires inside the connectors got pulled partially out, enough to not make good contact when the connectors were snapped together. I went over the whole bike moving the zip ties farther away from the connectors and pushing the wires back into the connectors from each side. I spray cleaned the connections as I did this. I think the culprit was the connector on each side of the main fuse, but since I did them all, I’m not positive which one did the trick. If the same guy attached your wiring harness to the frame, he might also have put the zip ties too close to the connectors. Worth a shot, and FREE.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good morning,

Update on the Monster

Haloguy628 & Duc96cr thanks for the input guy's.
And Supersnout, if any of this can help you all the better :)

What I've done so far today after reading both of your replies.

- Checked and cleaned the connectors for the CPS, fuel pump and Immobilizer antenna with contact cleaner
- Rechecked all 3 grounds/ Ok (battery, engine and ECU)
- Reseated the main wire loom in the back of the instrument panel it seamed to be out a bit.
- Checked for loose connections or fraid wires and cleaned every connector I could get my hands on with contact cleaner

What I did find wrong and it could be the source of my problem is the immobilizer antenna inner ring Inside the cover was damaged and a piece was missing and the copper loom was exposed, possibly shorting out on the ignition barrel. I discovered this when I took of the ignition cover! (Thanks Haloguy268) And for the record It was my fault when I clipped the tank on this spring the catch hooked on the ignition cover instead of the clip!! lesson learned.

What I have done as a temp fix is to seal the copper with a small piece of 2-way tape thus preventing it from shorting out on the ignition barrel.

I will go for test ride tonight as it's about 100F at the moment with high humidity. If the problem is gone, I will purchase a used Immobilizer antenna. :)

I will report back after my test ride tonight or in the morning.

PS: I LOVE this site keep the rubber side down!

L8tr
Pete
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all,

Well I just came back from a test ride and well no joy! :(
It seamed fine when I started it and for the first 5-10min of the ride I was feeling hopefull..

Then I decided to do a few WOT attempts to get it to cut out and after about 5 or so tries it obliged me and started cutting-out!
It almost feels like it's running out of gas when I slow down to make a tight turn but tank is 3/4 full.

If I give it the beans gradually I can get it to sing and it sounds normal, but as soon as I get off the gas & grab the next gear it starts to missfire?

- How can I test a CPS to see if it's bad?
- How can I test TPS to see it's bad?

Another thing I noticed when changing the plugs last winter there was a pale Brown soot on the ignition coils of both cylindres(less on the rear) And on the last ride before putting it away for winter when I started the bike it was running on ony one cylinder, this lasted 15-20 sec. and then it was fine. I put in down to a very cool mornint temp and it was absolutely fine for the 100+ miles ride that day.

I'm still thinking CPS or ignition coils or?

Any input would be greatly appreciated :)

L8tr

Keep the rubber side down
Pete
 

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Pete

How old is the gas in your tank? My bike has 6yr old gas in it (stored for that long) and I filled it up last Friday so it’s mixed old/new and that’s when my bike started stalling more frequently.

I was told it could be the culprit (among other things) so my goal is to ride it out till near empty, yet I’m unable to do so since I can’t ride more than a mile before it cuts out.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pete

How old is the gas in your tank? My bike has 6yr old gas in it (stored for that long) and I filled it up last Friday so it’s mixed old/new and that’s when my bike started stalling more frequently.

I was told it could be the culprit (among other things) so my goal is to ride it out till near empty, yet I’m unable to do so since I can’t ride more than a mile before it cuts out.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The gas is 4 days old so that's not an issue.
I'm thinking it's my CPS..

In your case I'd flush all gas out of your tank, replace the fuel filter and start with a fresh tank of gas and have a look at your plugs and replace them if they are as old as your gas ;)

Thanks for the input
Pete
 
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Was the bike stored for a long time with gas left in the tank? The injectors may be fouled since you only have problem at WOT. You can send them to a shop that cleans and matches injectors. Since the bike is 13 years old I would do that anyway.

Another issue may be the ECU since you have no clue what map is flashed in the EPROM. I am going to look for a link for you from UK forum where I described process of reading the fault codes from the ECU and what you need to do that. You will have also means to find the Termi race map and re-flash the ECU yourself. BRB.
 
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Here is the post from UKMOC Forum. My post is #8, #24, #42

S4R Won't Start - Getting me Down - Part 2

You have S4RS so the issue with the 59M ECU does not apply because starting in 2005 Ducati switched to the 5AM ECU on all bikes. However the process of reading codes and flashing maps remains the same.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Was the bike stored for a long time with gas left in the tank? The injectors may be fouled since you only have problem at WOT. You can send them to a shop that cleans and matches injectors. Since the bike is 13 years old I would do that anyway.

Another issue may be the ECU since you have no clue what map is flashed in the EPROM. I am going to look for a link for you from UK forum where I described process of reading the fault codes from the ECU and what you need to do that. You will have also means to find the Termi race map and re-flash the ECU yourself. BRB.
The tank was drained completely dry as It was removed to do the valves..and my living room is mt winter garage :)
It also miss fires at part open or steady throttle..I will have a look a the info you send to read the ECU codes

I have the JPDIAG, which I can use to diagnose. I will need to purchase some cable though, I will look into that.
I'm still suspecting the CPS (hoping)

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is the post from UKMOC Forum. My post is #8, #24, #42

S4R Won't Start - Getting me Down - Part 2

You have S4RS so the issue with the 59M ECU does not apply because starting in 2005 Ducati switched to the 5AM ECU on all bikes. However the process of reading codes and flashing maps remains the same.
Thans for the info and the link. The 5AM ECU, is it a 3 or 4 pin connector?
Makes sense at this point to get the cables as I already have the JPDIAG software on my laptop.

This way I would be sure of what the fault is and what sensor needs to be replaced :)

Thanks again
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here is the post from UKMOC Forum. My post is #8, #24, #42

S4R Won't Start - Getting me Down - Part 2

You have S4RS so the issue with the 59M ECU does not apply because starting in 2005 Ducati switched to the 5AM ECU on all bikes. However the process of reading codes and flashing maps remains the same.
Thanks Haloguy628 for the informative posts in your UK link :)
I read some reviews on the cable kit from Lonelec // so I ordered the kit.

https://www.lonelec.co.uk/Guzzidiag-Melcodiag-3pin-Interface-Cable

When they come in I will get to learn new skills :)
Gotta look on the bright side lol

Will report back as soon as the cable kit comes in


L8tr

Keep the rubber side down boys & girls ;)
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update on issue

Good morning,

I have a parcel waiting for me at the post office :) hoping it's the Lonelec diagnostics cables.
I will finaly be able to plug these in get the software to read my ECU serial# and then send this off to JPDiag Creator and get my "licence file" to activate the software.

I will update this thread with my findings and report back once the issue is identified and resolved

L8TR
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update: Results from JPDiag/ trouble codes

Good morning,

After picking up my Lonelec diagnostics cables at the post office yesterday, I first confirmed the polarity on the + & - cables with a mm(Ok) did not want to risk frying my ECU :wink2:

So I then proceeded to hook it all up and start-up JPDiag, clicked on the connect button waited a few seconds then turned the ignition ON and in no time I had the ECU data on the upper left side of the screen. Copied this to a word document and sent it to JP via e-mail & a few hours later! I had my licence file, copied this file in the installation directory of the JPdiag software.

Connected the cables from laptop to battery & ECU and lauched JPDiag.

Below is the print-out of the error codes found, as suspected one of the codes is the CPS. I'm still analyzing the rest of the codes as I was not expecting 6!!:crying:

PS: If anybody wants to shim-in & offer experience and wisdom, I'm all ears! >:)

=======================================================================

P0560 Dysfonctionnement de la tension du système
status DTC: 22
Open circuit,Short circuit GND


P0335 Dysfonctionnement circuit capt. A de position du vilebrequin
status DTC: 24
Open circuit


P0351 Dysfonct. circuit primaire/secondaire de bobine d'allumage A
status DTC: 21
Open circuit,Short circuit Vbat


P0352 Dysfonct. circuit primaire/secondaire de bobine d'allumage B
status DTC: 21
Open circuit,Short circuit Vbat


P0120 Dysfonction. circ. contacteur A/capt. posit. pédale d'accél.
status DTC: 22
Open circuit,Short circuit GND


U1600 Immobilizzatore nessun segnale[Fiat]
status DTC: A8
No or poor signal


PS2: This is my first time using JPDiag, but I found it fairly easy to use. That sais some sort of how-to or other documentation would have been nice, but I did find some usefull how-to's on the JPDiag forum from other members.

L8TR
Pete
 
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Wait, so according to your JPDiag:
- Rectifier
- Cam position sensor
- Both coils
- Throttle sensor
- Immobilizer
All have a short somewhere?

That sounds like a split wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Wait, so according to your JPDiag:
- Rectifier
- Cam position sensor
- Both coils
- Throttle sensor
- Immobilizer
All have a short somewhere?

That sounds like a split wiring harness.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate that :smile2:
And I will keep that in mind, but I did not see any indication of the harness being split at any one point.

- I can pretty much eliminate the "rectifier & immobilizer errors" ...battery was unplugged over the winter and the immobilizer may have been disabled in the ECU map.
- Both coils giving up the ghost at the same time is highly unlikely but not impossible.
- I confirmed that the TPS is behaving erratically and consistent with known symptoms of a bad sensor
- And the CPS is also a potential culprit given the symptoms my bike is having

That said I have ordered both the TPS & the CPS from Gotham Cycles ;)

Thanks again for the input..

L8TR
Pete
 

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With that many error codes I’m thinking it’s a wiring harness issue.
 
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