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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My first post in the Monster forum and I wanted some advice on the 2010 monster 1100S... I have a 749R gargae queen so wanted a daily and more useable bike and a beauty turned up at a near by Ducati dealership.

So the bike has 2000 miles on it and is coming serviced by a Ducati dealer and the previous owner has already done most of the bits I was going to do. However he hasn't done the suspension. Could anyone advise me on the best course to sorting the Ohlins out and the rear shock? I ride mainl roads and country roads and from memory the rear ohlins isn't anything special and a heavier spring than I require. I am 80kgs with gear which is 176 pounds.

All help greatly appreciated including anyworth while mods.

The bike has most things out of the Rizoma catologue including Rear Sets, and everything up front. Also Crash protectors and a seat swap... It also has the Termis and a sprinkling of carbon. So I am just wanting to make it ride better.

Thank you...
 

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At that weight you're probably within the range for the stock springs - so probably little to be done there.

How familiar with suspension set up are you? And also, it's a pretty personal thing - while someone else might be able to give you some ball park settings, things like your preferences, tire choice and a number of other factors come into play.
 

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It's fine at that weight. Mine was set up with too much preload on the rear which meant there was zero sag with the bike under its own weight which meant it was topping out. It also had a touch too much rear rebound damping. Apart from that its good to go at 80Kg. Its a light and short bike with sports suspension so don't expect a plush ride, but its nicely controlled.


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Discussion Starter #4
Ok thanks, I shall take it too my ducati shop and get them to set it up for me.

From what I have read the Ohlins is a bit too firm over the standard Sachs shock.

Also I was thinking about getting the exhaust Ceramic coated and / or possibly heat wrapped.
 

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You should be fine with the stock spring but it can always be changed down the road should you determine that it's not right.

It's a great bike :D
 

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My opinion, go to a suspension specialist (like I did) and get it set up for you. My thought was since I paid extra for the Ohlins I might as well make it the best it could possibly be for me as a rider. The rear spring is actually likely to be heavy for you. I weigh more than you (210 with gear) and my stock rear spring was about perfect (unlike most Ducs). I had to beef up the front as they are more for your weight. I just recently added a Bitubo steering damper, first one I've ever owned and never thought much of them but it does make a difference. Especially has helped tune out the "head shake" you get from accelerating hard out of a corner and the front getting light. Of course I ride the PISS outa my M1100s and not everyone does so the stock setup might be just fine.
 

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My opinion, go to a suspension specialist (like I did) and get it set up for you. My thought was since I paid extra for the Ohlins I might as well make it the best it could possibly be for me as a rider. The rear spring is actually likely to be heavy for you. I weigh more than you (210 with gear) and my stock rear spring was about perfect (unlike most Ducs). I had to beef up the front as they are more for your weight. I just recently added a Bitubo steering damper, first one I've ever owned and never thought much of them but it does make a difference. Especially has helped tune out the "head shake" you get from accelerating hard out of a corner and the front getting light. Of course I ride the PISS outa my M1100s and not everyone does so the stock setup might be just fine.
Head shake ? It sounds like your rear spring isn't strong enough. The sag is perfect for me at 80kg. Have you tried measuring it ? You should be compressing the suspension around 25/30mm when sat normally. If you are much beyond that then the front will be riding high, which means the front will go light out of bends and hence the head shake. It might feel like its under steering under power and going wide ? Just a thought. I tend to use the bike hard as well and its never had a shake, unlike the 4s which can kick in a fun way.


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These bikes are delivered ex factory assuming that you (also) ride with a passenger.

If you ride alone, you will find the rear too hard and the front too soft.

Since I never ride with a passenger, I had to decrease the pre-load on the rear a lot to find the proper settings.

The front I basically stiffened up a bit.
 

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These bikes are delivered ex factory assuming that you (also) ride with a passenger.

If you ride alone, you will find the rear too hard and the front too soft.

Since I never ride with a passenger, I had to decrease the pre-load on the rear a lot to find the proper settings.

The front I basically stiffened up a bit.
Wonder if they put a different spring in for Europe and the USA. As you guys are generally a bit bigger than us it would make sense to use a spring grade up. I did take a couple of turns of preload off mine, but it was within spec for an average rider of 80Kg. The front had the right amount of sag, but the suspension tech would have preferred a bit more compression damping than I do, but he uses the brakes a lot harder having served his apprenticeship with the Suzuki race team.


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Maybe "head shake" is not the correct term. I can tune it in and tune it out. I personally like the front to be quicker from side to side but when tuned that way the front can feel lite on hard exceleration out of a turn. I got a Bitubo Steering Damper basically for free (insurance money after neighbor knocked over my bike with her car) and am amazed at the difference the front feel has. I certainly do not proclaim to be a suspension expert, just chiming in with my thoughts and feels from my experience.

In my opinion take it to someone who knows what they are doing, bring your gear and have them "tune" it to you. give that person feedback of what you feel and prefer and they will be able to make the bike feel that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the advice,

I will do steering damper in the near future.

Need a couple of items for the bike but they can all wait.

Here is some pictures.




 

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Maybe "head shake" is not the correct term. I can tune it in and tune it out. I personally like the front to be quicker from side to side but when tuned that way the front can feel lite on hard exceleration out of a turn. I got a Bitubo Steering Damper basically for free (insurance money after neighbor knocked over my bike with her car) and am amazed at the difference the front feel has. I certainly do not proclaim to be a suspension expert, just chiming in with my thoughts and feels from my experience.

In my opinion take it to someone who knows what they are doing, bring your gear and have them "tune" it to you. give that person feedback of what you feel and prefer and they will be able to make the bike feel that way.
Would you mind just checking your total sag? The front going light out of the turn is reducing grip. That suggests the rear is too soft.

To do the sag measurements ( they need to be really accurate and always from the same point ).

Mark a fixed point vertically above the rear wheel spindle at a fixed point on the bike. Bit of tape on the rear fender works OK.

Lever the bike onto the side stand so the rear wheel is off the floor and get someone to accurately measure between the spindle and a fixed point. ( that gives you the datum to work on ).

Next, just put the bike on its wheels again and hold it upright and re-measure ( that gives unladen sag) it should be between 5-8mm.

Then get sat on the bike in a normal riding position. You don't need to wear your bike gear, but you really should have around half a tank of gas. Get someone to measure again. ( that should give total sag ) it should be between 25mm ( good for the track but a bit hard for the road and 35mm ( a nice soft road compromise but too soft for the track ).

I'm guessing you have around 40-50mm of laden sag which makes the front forks actually rise. If you have added additional preload to the front, then it will go really light and understeers. I think that's what you are feeling. Personally I don't think there is any need for a steering damper on the Monster unless you have the suspension set up incorrectly. Until you take the measurements I can't tell. At least by doing this you can learn to set up the bike yourself. I'm having doubts your suspension specialist has done much more than wind the preload to maximum which won't help if you are overloading the bike.

I might be able to get you a sweet steering bike and you can sell the damper and buy something else shiny for the bike?



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Discussion Starter #14
I love this bike... Effortless low down grunt and the seat is super comfy...

Not ridden a bike since October 2011 so it will be a little while before I'm up to speed but a lovely 1st ride.
 

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Hello,

My first post in the Monster forum and I wanted some advice on the 2010 monster 1100S... I have a 749R gargae queen so wanted a daily and more useable bike and a beauty turned up at a near by Ducati dealership.
I am just picking up on '09 1100S with about 4k miles. I rode my 999 for the first time in a while and was reminded how comfortable my Multi PP is :). I decided the Monster was the right second bike. I was lucky since a friend was selling hers. Next stop is DesmotoSport in SF for the full suspension tune.

I am really looking forward to this. The bike already has a lot of extras, including Termi's. But there is always more to be done :).
 

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Next time I got a yardstick handy and a buddy of mine standing next to me and the bike I will get the specs for you. I am comfident it is setup properly for me...

Here is another pertinent and timely thread on the M1100s rear spring if there is interest of the OP

M1100S Ohlins rear shock fully adjustable?
That would be good, would be really good to compare numbers. I checked the spring on mine its a 130 which is the same as the one mentioned. Got around 30mm now I've rechecked it. Touch hard for ultimate comfort, I could probably go down one spring rate, but its handy when I'm touring with a full pack. Even now I have quite a bit of preload, I have about 12mm of thread after the nut.
 

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Looks like just from looking we are set up pretty close to the same. I have the 130 lb rear spring and 5/8" (~13 - 14 mm) of threads left above the nut/collar so I may be cranked down an extra turn or 2. With it set like this it is a great compromise for the kind of riding I do. I work from home so don't commute, just 25K miles of FUN STUFF :)
 

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Do the measure. I reckon at your weight you are going to be at about 40mm of sag which isn't ideal. If its anymore than that its too much. Don't bother with your full bike kit, I just add 5 mm for it.


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Discussion Starter #20
Got rid of the open clutch cover



Added Carbon exhaust heat guard

DP rear luggage

Suspension set up

And some more R&G crash protectors to forks and rear wheel



Next month steering damper
 
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