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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this topic has been discussed on other forums. I'm wondering if other people here have had this issue.

My bike is three months old and has about 4000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed that the engine is intermittently starting to hang up at 2000 RPM with the throttle closed. This happens both with the bike in motion and at a stop. It idles high for typically 3-5 seconds before settling down. The issue may be more prominent when the bike is quite hot, but it also happens at normal temperature levels.

Yesterday I got on the freeway and noticed the check engine light was on. I pulled in the clutch and the idle was solidly stuck at 2000 RPM. I though to myself, "That's it, the idle air valve has failed for good." But it eventually settled down and the light went out. No error menu on the instrument display, so I can't report a code.

I've mentioned this before yesterday to the dealer and his response was basically, "It's a new bike. We'll have to see what issues come up." Since it's not a show-stopping issue and doesn't happen all the time, I've been reluctant to bring it in for service.

Has anybody else here run into this problem and gotten a proper diagnosis and fix? BTW, I'm quite sure it's not a sticking throttle cable.

Thanks.

-Henry
 

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I had a similar problem and it wasn't a sticking throttle cable but a throttle cable that was being slightly tensioned when the bars were turned to the left.
 

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My bike does that too. Always has. Dealer says it is normal...:rolleyes:

I have almost 9000 miles on mine.
 

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My sfs did that once during very aggressive riding with a hot engine. Only lasted about ten minutes. Hasn't done it again but I also haven't thrashed it since like I did on that ride.


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mine also did that....
mechanic did the air screw adjustment...a little bit better but still there
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe the high idle is normal, but I don't think it's desirable. The question, IMHO, is whether it's a mechanical defect, a software defect, or something out of adjustment. I have an appointment with dealer service on Wednesday and we'll see if they can recover the fault code that caused my check engine light to come on.

-Henry


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took the bike to the dealer yesterday. Word is that all is "normal." The only code in the ECU was DTC related. Technician says, "The ECU adjusts the idle speed according to engine temperature, air pressure, etc."

So no conclusions. If it keeps bothering me, I may just disconnect the idle air valve. Otherwise, the engine is running great, and loving the cooler fall air.

-Henry
 

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op48no1: I'm having the same issue and it is really annoying. Sometimes my idle doesn't come back down at all. Did you ever disconnect the idle air valve? I wasn't even sure if the bike had an idle air valve or not. Is is electronically or vacuum controlled?
I assume nobody knows why this is happening?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't tried disconnecting the idle air valve yet, mainly because it's such a big deal to get into the guts of the machine. My old BMW boxers were much easier to work on. The other thing is, I'll need some kind of manual fast idle mechanism if I take out the air valve.

I have this feeling the problem happens when there is a disconnect between the temperature of the engine and the ambient temperature. The problem doesn't seem to be directly correlated to how hot the engine is absolutely, but it does seem to get worse once the engine is warmed up. But not always. The weather is colder here now and I see the high idle sometimes right after the engine is started.

I don't have a service manual, so I don't know exactly what inputs the ECU uses to make its decisions. I'm wondering if there is some problem, say, with ambient engine heat screwing up the readings from one or more other sensors.

Anyway, as I said above, the dealer is not especially interested, and I'm not holding my breath for some kind of official Ducati software update to fix it.

-Henry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Interestingly, last night I was riding, very similar weather conditions, and the idle was absolutely perfect. This evening I went out for a ride and it's sticking very noticeably. Strange.

Thanks to forum member aarondato, I have a copy of the Monster Evo service manual. According to the manual, the idle air valve operates according to two "strategies." The first strategy controls the opening of the valve solely by the engine temperature. The second strategy adds extra opening steps on top of the first strategy only during the first engine cycles immediately after starting the bike.

It follows that the idle air valve, in normal operation, should not be moving very rapidly, if at all. The manual does not give the algorithm for the first "strategy". I'd like to assume the algorithm is that once the engine is properly warmed up, the air valve is fully closed and remains that way. That would be the simplest proposition from a diagnostic point of view. The more complicated situation would be if the idle air valve is constantly adjusting, all the way from a cold engine to flaming hot engine temperature.

Let's assume for the moment that the idle air valve is working properly and that in normal operation it stays fully closed once the engine has warmed up. Then this means the idle problem is not a function of the idle air valve at all, but has something to do with ECU mixture and timing adjustments.

Either way, the only way to test the theory is to disable the air valve. I had a look at my engine just now and this is not something easily done without taking the tank off. So for now I'm just too lazy to try.

I would be really excited if someone would give this a try and report on the result.

-Henry
 

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I'm back in town now and going to fiddle around with the bike tomorrow some. I may only have time for a quick lookover and some "troubleshooting" riding and not taking the bike apart to get to the valve. If it remains a persistent and annoying issue you can belive I'm going to dig into this further in the near future...

I have to eliminate the possibility of issues with my Bazzaz installation first. I have other symptoms that could be related to one common cause. No doubt I had the issue before the installation, but it was a rare occurence and very mild. Now it's very often and dramatic.

EDIT: ------>
Couldn't wait until tomorrow... so I'm in the garage at 2am taking this thing apart. All my Bazzaz connections look good except one potentially sketchy connection to the TPS wire so I fixed that. Looks like there are only two places air can get into each cylinder after the main throttle plates (two ports on each intake runner). One seems to be a simple pressure equibrilating (sp?) line or pressure sensor between the two intake runners, and the other is the main idle air control valve (which IS electrically controlled, BTW). I went ahead and put some hose clamps on the IAC lines going to each intake runner as the fitment of the stock hose looked so-so at best. The shop that did my work also removed my charcoal canister and simply plugged the line with a screw. I've a believer that a screw stuck in the hose doesn't always make a great plug, so I went ahead and removed the lines AND ports on each intake runner, replacing each with an M6x1.25 plug and copper washer. This should eliminate some potential vacuum leaks. Could still be a faulty IAC valve I suppose.

If there is any positive progress tomorrow, I'll report back.
 

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Mine also does this. It seams when I downshift hard a couple gears and come to a stop. I have 9500km but its not to frequent so i'm not to concerned. Within a few seconds the revs go down.
 

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My checks over the bike lead me to believe that the Bazzaz is not the cause of the sticking high idle just after coming to a stop.

Since plugging the ports and putting the hose clamps on, it seems to be much better though. Perhaps there was a small vac leak?

It's still there, however after coming to a complete stop it will drop to normal 1300rpm idle about 85% of the time now. It does hang out around 2200rpm or so while slowing down until coming to a full COMPLETE stop most of the time however.. For those times that it does not come down on it's own once stopped, it seems a quick blip of the throttle will bring it down. I'm 99% sure it's not a sticking throttle plate, because pressing closed on the plate actuator does not have any effect. I guess I can live with it.
 

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My M1100 started doing this at ~400 miles. Normal idle is 1500 - 1650, high idle 1950 - 2000.

Doesn't seem to do it on initial startup for the day, only after I've been riding for a while, and the temperature indicator has gone up to 3 - 4 bars.

I'm taking it in for it's initial 1k km service on Thursday. I'll make sure to ask about it.
 

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Hey Chaps,

The idle issue seems to be a common one here (Dubai) too and initially the dealer was blaming it on the excessive dust in the air getting into the stepper motor causing it to stick open.

I picked my bike up from the local dealer yesterday and they have replaced the stepper motor saying instead that the old one was faulty and it's a problem Ducati had let them know about.

I recommend you approach your dealer and have them check if they have had any info like this from Ducati. It is NOT normal and when we all pay a lot of money to own a premium bike we shouldn't accept what seems to have become the stock answer from dealers.

Aaron
 

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Mine was having the "high idle" problem too and it was hard to get it run in the morning and it begun at approximately 11 000km. Since I already had my 12 500km service appointment set for a couple weeks later, I just rode as it was.

The morning of the appointment, I did mentioned it to the service guy and the mechanic... First thing I knew was that I was loosing my Monster for at least 2 days!!! 3 out of 4 valves had no clearance at all and the guide pin was bent!!!

2 days later, Ducati Canada came back saying that I could finish the season as it is (the mechanic did loosen the valves a bit) but they are taking my bike over the winter and they gonna check everything from cylinder size, valve, guide pin, etc...

Hopefully I will end up with a blueprint engine!!!


Marty
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High idle

Hello, is there any new info on this issue? My bike is only 2weeks old and the idle most of the time stays atv2000-2500 rpm. Is it safe to ride like this? Thanks, john
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My M1100 started doing this at ~400 miles. Normal idle is 1500 - 1650, high idle 1950 - 2000.

Doesn't seem to do it on initial startup for the day, only after I've been riding for a while, and the temperature indicator has gone up to 3 - 4 bars.

I'm taking it in for it's initial 1k km service on Thursday. I'll make sure to ask about it.
Normal idle is around 1200 RPM...

-Henry


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I'm experiencing the same thing with my 2012 Monster Evo 1100 ABS. I'm in Brooklyn NY. It started in March of 2012.

It started out of the blue one day. I remember that I was riding for an hour, came to a 30 minute stop at a motorcycle store, and had a hard time starting the bike. After 10 minutes of playing with it, revving it, I got the bike to stay on. From there, I rode 10 minutes before this high RPM idling issue has cursed me. It comes and goes like a bad case of the Herpes :D

It was more prone to idle at higher engine temperatures at first. Now it seems like it's more frequent, regardless of how long the bike is running.

Normal idle for me is 1,400 RPM... when this idle issue happens it holds around 2,000-2,200 (with clutch in, or neutral), at times for 15-20 seconds before returning to 1,400 RPM. I've popped the throttle, thinking that it may help, but it doesn't. Sometimes I rev the engine, sometime that helps, but that may just be a coincidence.

I've had days where I didn't experience it. Really strange.

I'll share whatever else I come across relating to this subject, when I figure it out. I'm going to log some data one day, with my laptop tied to the back of the seat.

I'm so sick of this fucking bike. It's been nothing but headaches and heartaches. Not to mention, I was ripped off by a Ducati tech.

About 10 seconds from going Ninja Z1000SX. The Japs at least know how to do math, and design something that fucking works.
 
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